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There appears to be 2 schools of thought. And I am referring to a hunting round here, not a benchrest or target round. 1) when resizing a case, do not touch the shoulder and the bolt should close snug with a bit of pressure on the shoulder. 2) when resizing, just "bump" the shoulder so the bolt closes easily. Can we have some comment here please. | ||
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I choose #2...bolt closes easily, and I want to resize just enough to accomplish that. Then I cycle every round through the magazine and into and out of the chamber to 'proof' each handload. | |||
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For varmint hunting, prefer #1. For deer, elk, moose, bear, cats, pigs, and all African game, prefer #2. Hammer | |||
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If I was hunting critters that are bigger than me, or those that bite, I would go with the #2 process! You don't really want to have a cartridge in your chamber that won't let the bolt close when you have fangs and claws coming at you! Just my two cents. Chuck | |||
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I like the Stoney Point Cartridge Headspace Gauge for setting up sizer dies. You'll get the best of both worlds because you measure a fired case from that rifle with the gauge and a caliper then you adjust the sizing die to set the shoulder back a couple of thousandths. The bolt will close with the slightest bit of resistance which, in my way of thinking, extends brass life because it doesn't have to expand very much to fill the chamber area and make a seal. Make sure that the cases are properly trimmed if needed and everything should be fine. | |||
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I usually go with #1 in a bolt gun, or single shot, and #2 with lever actions. I would assume that you should go with #2 for pumps and auto's also. | |||
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You guys have to realize where 500nitro is from! AFRICA....Where big things can bite you! This is not the place or time to be worried about "case life"! Shooting at the range is a completely different thing! | |||
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I load for 11 different calibers and have found I'm most satisfied when I set up the sizer to just make contact with the shell holder. That's enough to allow for bolt closing fairly easily. I've been careless a time or two and failed to make this contact. It's no fun at the range having to slam the bolt home to get closure. An ounce of prevention goes a long way here. Best wishes. Cal - Montreal | |||
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I actually set mine up so that the full length sizing die "just touches" the shoulder. You feel a "lil bit" of friction when you close the bolt but not much. Once in a while the expander button WILL drag the shoulder forward and then you end up with quite a bit of friction. | |||
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I vote for #2 for hunting loads as I like them to feed easily but with just a very slight snugness. I screw the sizing die until it just touches the shell holder and then give the die another 1/4 turn and lock the ring down. This gives the ram a slight springing feel when raised against the die. I also run these loaded rounds through the rifle to make certain of good fit after reloading. I want that same snug feel at the range as well as out hunting. To me factory ammo feels too loose for accuracy! BLR7. | |||
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Thanks for the input guys. I also run with #2 for hunting loads and check-cycle every round before packing them into the ammo cases. | |||
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I am new to reloading and frankly am a little confused at differing opinions on die set-up. My RCBS dies come with directions that say to lower the die fully and then add another quarter turn. The redding dies I have just are to be lowered, locked, and used. Then, I here about leaving the dies up a quarter turn or so from bottoming on the button and progressivley lowered as you try a test round (empty of powwder) in your chamber. Yet again, some suggest neck-sizing new brass first! Its enuff to make a guy take up golf. 1b | |||
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eldeguello; Think about what you just said! You stated that you usually hunted in cooler weather and therefore, your brass had a chance to shrink a little due to the temperature! The chamber of the firearm also changes with temperature! Chuck | |||
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quote:DITTO for me. | |||
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