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35 rem reloading problems
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ive posted this on a couple other forums to hopfully get some answerews to this tough question.. .. i brought home a rem 35 marlin 336c old style to shoot. it has caused a few reloading problems.. when i seated the bullet 1/16 short of the rifling it would completely colaps inside the case with several loadings(no powder or primer of course).. when i shortened the bullet (180 grain .357 sierra fpj ) to be in the groove it is about 1/8 to 3/16 short of rifling and that may be ok,only the range will tell that.. the thing that bothers me when i go to pull them they are really in there.it takes about two to three times as man whacks to pull them with an inertia bullet puller... . they still shorten about .0015 when reloaded several times but that may be ok.. the thing that bothers me is that it may be generatiing too much pressure seated hevily in the connolure.. any comments?? dave.
 
Posts: 249 | Location: central montana | Registered: 17 June 2004Reply With Quote
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I wouldn't angst too much about the bullet jump in a 336 .35rem rifle. What they do, they do well but shooting bug holes at 100 yards isn't one of them.
 
Posts: 2037 | Location: frametown west virginia usa | Registered: 14 October 2001Reply With Quote
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Lets see if I decoded this correctly.

You have a lever-action rifle with a tube magazine, so you need to crimp the bullets so they don't move under recoil. You've tried seating the bullets out so they have only a 1/16" jump to the rifling, but this caused the cannelure to not be at the mouth of the case. So when you tried to crimp the case into the bullet, the shoulder collapsed. When you seated the bullets so the cannalure was correctly placed at the mouth of the case, it's 1/8 to 3/16 short of the rifling. When you pulled the bullets from your test cartridges, you found that it took a lot of force to remove the bullets, and you are worried that this might raise pressures.
Yes, a good crimp with lots of neck tension of the bullet can raise pressures as the bullet doesn't move down the barrel as soon as a bullet that is only loosely held in the case. That's why reloading books have starting loads, and you work up slowly to the max load, stopping if you see any signs of excessive pressure like a loose primer or sticking cases. Everyone's crimping action, neck tension, case hardness, lot of primers, lot of powder, every barrel and chamber are a little differant; you just have to follow safe reloading paractices to make good ammo. You're right to be concerned, just do as the reloading manuals say and you should be okay.
As far as accuracy with the shorter OAL causing the bullets to have a long jump to the rifling, it might be okay, or it might cause problems. If you run into problems that switching bullets etc doesn't solve, you can buy a tool to machine a cannelure into the bullet where you need it for proper positioning in the chamber of your rifle from either of these companies:

CH4D

Corbin
 
Posts: 421 | Location: Broomfield, CO, USA | Registered: 04 April 2002Reply With Quote
<eldeguello>
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Crimp them in the groove on the bullet. If you try to apply the crimp somewhere else, the case mouth has no place ot go, and the result is a collapsed shoulder. This happens to ALL cartridges, not just the .35 REM.!!



IF you are sticking to published charge data for your .35 REM., you don't need to worry about the crimp causing DANGEROUS presures. They may rise a little due to the crimp, maybe, but not enough to get concerned about. JUST MAKE SURE YOU KEEP YOUR CASES TRIMMED TO UNDER MAX CASE LENGTH SPECS!
 
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Quote:

... i just loaded some speer 180 bullets ...


Hey Dave, I was out shopping the other day and ran into a guy I've not seen in at least 40 years. I used to drag Deer for him and two of his buddies in my youth. They all used a 35Rem with 180gr Speers with the exact same Load this gentleman loaded for them. I heard one of them shoot twice way back then and thought he had missed. He actually killed two Deer for me to drag.

He is the only one of them left and the first thing he said to me was, "You are just the young(HA) fellow I need to drag my Deer for me this year!" I can't remember the last time I had that big a smile. Told him it would be my honor to. No doubt in my mind what he will be using.

---

Just trim the cases, lightly deburr and chamfer the casemouth and Seat the 180gr Speers to the cannelure and do a light Roll Crimp. If would be very difficult to improve on this Bullet in the 35Rem for Deer.
 
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001Reply With Quote
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thanks for the great info. shot my first reloads after shootin a new box of rem 200 grain round nose.. i dont want to ruin a good old 336 becouse of being ignorant.. the 357 bullets hung up a little bit but were cheap, shot great and good for plinking.. this 336 is great, not to long, not to short, not too heavey not too light, nottoo much recoil, plenty of power, for some reason it feels just right and for offhand and kneeling,,,, fits me well.. im really glad i kept it.. it came into my shop and i couldnt let it go without trying it.. it wouldnt shoot well first time out at 50 yards and next time with my glasses was a diffeent story.. ill try different bullets to see how they shoot.. they seem to have different cannalure depths and i mayh find onethat works very well. i just loaded some speer 180 bullets tonight and they are actuallly a little long, but back from the rifling a little bit.. .. book shows them to be really cooking at the slowest load.. thanks again dave.
 
Posts: 249 | Location: central montana | Registered: 17 June 2004Reply With Quote
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