Sierra recommends IMR 4064 for shooting 270Win out of a Remington 7400. But it jams almost every other round. No matter what the load. Accuracy is pretty good however. Rob at sierra recommends not using 4350 in it. But all I know is factory ammo in Remington and Winchester 130gr bullets work like a champ with no jamming ever. I know alot of this is a guess, but what powder do you think would simulate the burning rate of a factory 270Win from Remington? I was thinking IMR 4350. What do you guys think?

What type of malfunction are you experiencing? Failure to feed? Failure to extract? Do unfired rounds feed and extract smoothly? I have had good luck with Winchester 760 in my 742. Are you using pointed bullets as these rifle have a marked preference for spitzers. Are you crimping into a cannelure? This makes a difference in some rifles. Take a long look at a factory load that works in the rifle an figure out what is different about your reloads.

Reloading for auto loaders is one of the more difficult tasks in reloading. First, you want to try one of the mid-range powders. In that regard, 4350 seems a proper choice. You want to use a mid-velocity load, not too fast-not too slow. And you have full length size, and crimp the bullet. If it continues to jam, you may have to get a small base resizing die. I've never had to do this, but I have heard that it can happen. I hope this helps. Ku-dude

bigciuntry:
The advice from Ku-dude is right on. I currently load for a couple of family members that use the 742 in 30-06 and would offer the following advice. You state it never jams with factory ammo so you obviously want to try and duplicate factory loads exactly if you want the rifle to function. Start off by carefully selecting the brass, size and trim it, load carefully and then crimp it - I use a Lee crimp die and it works. Now go to a safe place, place the rifle on "Safe" and load the clip. Cycle the bolt and see how the rounds feed through the action, if they chamber okay. Often if you have a problem it will show up here.
Oh, and BTW, I would definately recommend that you use small base dies, and be careful not to set the shoulder back at all. If you still have problems, post back and be as specific as possible as to what exactly is happening when you have a jam.
"Shoot straight, shoot safe and shoot a lot!"

It seems to have failure to extract and feed. Meaning, if I put one bullet at a time in the magizine, it extracts fine. But when more than one, they get binded while brass is extracting, and fresh one is feeding. Does that make sense? Reason for reloading is I am getting 1.5" groups with my reloads but 3" groups with factory. I am using 130gr Serria SBT. No Cannelure. Maybe loading little long at 3.3" COL. But that is what Sierra recommended. Even though other manuels are at 3.25". but I tried to load deeper with same problems. Have to play around a little, I guess.

Hey bigcountry, I suspect the other posts answered your question and may just fix the problem for you.

That said, you might be right on the edge of seeing the same problem with factory ammo. These rifles are notorious for Extraction problems created by incorrect cleaning techniques.

If you are cleaning the barrel from the Muzzle, as the brush enters the Neck/Chamber portion of the barrel, the bristles "spring" outward throwing crud onto the Chamber Walls. Then when a patch is pushed through from the muzzle, it won't expand large enough to clean out the Chamber.

The crud will build up to the point that it will eventually cause Extraction Problems with factory ammo. And since you are Reloading cases, they "may be" shrinking back a bit less after firing than the factory cases - thus changing the timing slightly resulting in the Extraction issue.

In order to avoid this, the Chamber needs to be cleaned through the Ejection Port or completely disassemble the rifle and clean through the Chamber end as you would a Bolt Action.

Hoppe's makes a special flexible nylon shaft T-handle cleaning rod specifically for use in this style Chamber so you don't have to take the rifle(or semi-auto shotgun) apart. It works real well. You will need a 45cal Brush to put on the end of it and spin around in the chamber. Then put a patch over the brush and wipe it clean.

One trick I saw a guy mention which made a good bit of sense is to leave a "Spent Case" in the Chamber when cleaning the Bore. That way as the brush springs open, the vast majority of the trash goes "inside" that particular case. Of course, you will still need to clean the chamber, but it won't be nearly as big of a mess - just powder residue.

Good luck to you in resolving this issue.

Thanks, for the advise. But I have had this gun for years and years. Killed more deer than you could fill a train car with it. Thats the only reason I use it. It has never let me down. I just wanted the groups that I got with reloads. I learned a long time ago how to clean after I didn't clean out the action when I was kid for 3 years, and the oil and dirt turned in gunk.

Thanks,

Hey bigcountry, Good for you. I had no idea if you were aware of those issues or not. Maybe it will help someone else.

Good luck with the problem.

I had a 742 in .280 Rem, H-4831 was the best powder, very accurate and perfect function. 742's I've shot in 30-06 worked well with 4064 or 760. I would say 4350, 760, or 4831 should work well in the .270