Guys I am going to try the molly bullets.I have a new sendero 7mm rem mag and I fired it about 8 times yesterday without molly. Is there anything special that I need to do as far as breaking in my barrel for shooting molly as far as cleaning and shooting?I just don't know anything about molly bullets and I don't want to take a chance on messing something up. Thanks!!

Hey Brian, It sounds like you intend to shoot pre-Moly coated Bullets. If that is the case, then I'd recommend you go to a Gun Shop and buy the smallest amount of Moly Powder you can locate. And stop by an Auto Parts store and buy the smallest amount of Moly Grease you can get.

If your Gun Shop sells Air Rifles, they will probably carry Beeman products. Ask for a 1/2oz squeeze bottle of "Beeman B100 Powder"(Part# 9190) which is Moly Powder. Or look for the smallest quantity they have in the Reloading Department. Beeman may also have a Moly Grease, but I don't know what the Part # is for it.

If you can't find Moly Grease at your Auto Parts store, places like Midway have it in the Lyman Cast Bullet Lubes or your Gun Shop may have it too.

Someone makes a product called Moly Bore Prep (can't remember who at the moment), and it may work great, but I've not used it.

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1. Clean the barrel so no Copper remains. Shine a light in the Breech, look in the muzzle, and it should "sparkle" like a hall of mirrors. And of course no Copper streaks.
2. Push a clean tight fitting "Paper Patch" (something like Job Squad or the paper towels sold at Auto Parts Stores) and it should come out clean and formed to the Bore. A cloth Patch won't form as well to the Bore.
3. "Lightly" cover the patch with the Moly Grease on your finger tip. Push it through the barrel a couple of strokes.
4. Use the same Patch and sprinkle some of the Moly Powder on top of the Moly Grease. Spread it out evenly on the Patch and give the barrel a couple of strokes with it.

Note: Now you have a pristine clean barrel lightly coated with Moly Grease and Moly Powder.

5. Shoot a Moly coated bullet and clean the barrel with a Bore Cleaner that will remove Copper without having to use a Brass Bore Brush. There are a lot of good cleaners that work well for this. I use Hoppe's Benchrest and a Nylon Bore Brush for this phase of cleaning.
6. Repeat steps 1.-4. until the "sparkle" becomes a "dull gray" all the way to the muzzle. This indicates the Moly has "attached" itself to the Bore.

The number of shots it takes to obtain this depends on the Bore Condition and the amount of Moly peened into the bullets you are using.

The "Spray on" Moly Bullet coatings do not work well if you intend to coat your own. Only "peening" Moly into the bullet jacket provides the adhesion needed.

I see some folks mention long strings of shots from ther rifles after they have them Moly Coated. In my case, I still normally clean the barrel in 9 shots or so.

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Oh yes, this is real important. When you finish shooting the rifle, "ALWAYS" be sure to clean it and "lightly" regrease the Bore before putting it away. Then run one dry patch through it before the next time you shoot it to make sure there is no excess Grease in the Bore.

Leaving the Bore "fouled" will eventually lead to a pitted Bore. Moly does not prevent pitting. Just cleaning the barrel as you should will eliminate this concern.

[ 09-26-2002, 19:20: Message edited by: Hot Core ]

Gunsmiths tell me that you should never try breaking in a gun with moly coated bullets.

I had thought there was a problem with using auto shop style moly grease, something about the sulfer component of it leading to corrosion. You should buy moly specifically made for shooting. It is supposed to be a purer form without the sulfer.