which is not unusual.

I am reloading for a Kimber Montana in .325 WSM

Using all new components.

When I put an unloaded piece of brass in the magazine and cycle the action the brass goes right into the chamber perfectly, and comes out perfectly.

When I put in a loaded piece of brass (a cartridge) in the magazine and cycle the bolt it goes in beautifully. However, when I cycle the bolt to extract the cartridge (unfired) the bolt stops a bit before completing the upstroke.
I can still move the bolt and get the cartridge out, but it takes some force.

If I then take that same cartridge and place it in the magazine and cycle the bolt, it again goes right in with no problem. But the same thing when I attempt to remove it. Bolt stops, hard to remove cartridge.

im fairly new to reloading but just throwing out some geusses here. are there any marks on the brass or the bullet? and where in the stroke is this happening? possibly when you are seating the bullet maybe your getting a little bulge in the case shoulder? or if its at the begining of the stroke maybe the overall length is a little long and the bullet is sticking in the rifling. either of these would seam like they would show on the case/bullet though. again just throwing geusses here.

One of the last things which occurs last when you cycle the bolt back with a piece of brass (the case rim) under the extractor is that the ejector hits the rear of the case edge and tosses it out of the action.

Of course I haven't looked at your action and cartridge, but it seems to me the problem may be related to your ejector. If the cartridge is loaded fairly long compared to the ejector port length of your action, when you pull the still loaded round out, it could be moving smoothly until the base of the case hits the ejector.

Then, the bullet could be cammed at an angle which would easily toss out an empty case, but will make the bullet bear against some where inside the action. And the harder you pull, the harder it will bear.

If that sounds like your possible sequence, I'd check the ejection/ejector for a possible culprit.

One way to do that would be to cycle an empty, NEW case with no bullet loaded in it. If if chambers easily (once guided in with your fingers) then try ejecting it. It likely will extract and eject very easily. If it does, then the problem is definitely something about the geometry of the cartridge angle just before ejection.

To test that, make up a dummy round and try seating the bullet deeper, little bit at a time and see at which length (if any) it functions well.

If that doesn't work, have a gunsmith look at the distance the jector stands clear of the bolt face as the bolt is drawn fully to the rear.

It may very well be none of those things, but from this view that's what it looks like so far, to me.

BTW, that's obviously just a SWAG, perhaps worth only what you paid for it.

Good luck.

Another SAWG….

If I’m reading correctly, your pause is when you raise the bolt from its locked position rather than when drawing it back.

If that’s the case, you might check to see if the cartridges you’re loading might be too long for the chamber and the bullet is digging into the rifling locking it in a “clock position” that you need to struggle to break free before the bolt is free to move back.

if the problem is when you are lifting the bolt, it is worth checking if your chamber has a low tolerance & therefore you need to keep the brass trimmed to tight tolerances. If the brass is too long, it will pinch the bullets at the throat and cause tight extraction problems for loaded ammo and high pressures when fired.

You should mike the loaded ammo's neck and check if it is within spec.

Sounds like the brass is a shade long; as in headspace, not OAL trim to length. I'll be a factory round will extract and eject smooth as silk. If this is the case, yours will be fine after you fire them.

Try putting a very light touch of "Grease" on the back-side of the Locking Lugs and wipe the entire Bolt with a rag that has had oil placed onto the rag.

Best of luck to you.

The difference in force indicates a change in the shape of the cartridge, either in diameter of the neck or bulge at the shoulder. The increase in lifting force seems to occur at the point where the bolt's primary extraction cam begins to bear, toward the top of the bolt handle's lift.

Yes, you can polish and lubricate the primary extraction cam surfaces and this will probably result in some improvement, but it won't solve the condition. There appears to be SOMETHING that's holding a grip on the bulleted case to prevent its smooth withdrawal.

Neck or shoulder area, of course.
Regards, Joe

Doesn't do this with an empty brass case.

Does this with the same brass case after a bullet is seated, correct?

You might have your seating die set to low and applying an unwanted crimp to the neck thus putting a slight bulge in the brass. Just a thought.

quote:

Originally posted by steve4102:
Doesn't do this with an empty brass case.

Does this with the same brass case after a bullet is seated, correct?

You might have your seating die set to low and applying an unwanted crimp to the neck thus putting a slight bulge in the brass. Just a thought.

I’m curious, everybody’s saying it’s the brass in some form yet the brass by itself has no problem. I mentioned the bullet is not seated deep enough and is locking into the rifling causing a rotation problem when the bolt is twisted. Not knowing the gun well, is it impossible for the bullet to not be seated deep enough causing the bullet to hit the rifling?

It just seems to be the most likely cause since raw brass doesn’t do it; the bullet is somehow the cause. I seriously just want to learn.

I am not familiar with a Kimber Montana rifle, but I am under the impression it is a Controlled Round Feed or "claw extractor" similar to a Win. M-70. In all of my M-70 CRF rifles, if the bullet is seated out too far and comes into contact with the lands in the throat, I get the same tight bolt lift at the the last portion of lift. Try taking a black marker and paint up the bullet prior to chambering the loaded round. Cycle it and see if there are any rifling marks on the bullet. It sounds like that is what the problem is.

Understandable misunderstanding; the Kimber is a 1911.

quote:

Originally posted by wboggs:
Understandable misunderstanding; the Kimber is a 1911.

In 325 WSM???

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by wboggs:
Understandable misunderstanding; the Kimber is a 1911.

In 325 WSM??? [/QUOTE

A 1911??????????????????
Please reread the original post.

quote:

Originally posted by Rae59:

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by wboggs:
Understandable misunderstanding; the Kimber is a 1911.

In 325 WSM??? [/QUOTE

A 1911??????????????????
Please reread the original post.

I fully understand the original post and only related the bullet protruding too far out of a shell as the reason for the problem in the original post and related that particular problem to a problem I had with a 1911 which also shoots bullets out of shells.

If you go back and read all of my posts you'll understand how your accusation is incorrect.

No offense meant and nor was I trying to be a smart ass.

I guess I should go to sleep as it is 1.27 am on Tuesday.

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
No offense meant and nor was I trying to be a smart ass.

I guess I should go to sleep as it is 1.27 am on Tuesday.

No offense taken; I just wanted to clear things up.

well, there is something amiss with this particular rifle. In using the recommended Maximum OAL (2.860) it seems the cartridge is, as many suspected, a bit to long. Why I don't know. I am using Nosler Partition 200 grain bullets. I have reduced the OAL by 5 thousandths and it now seems to be okay. ( I am not one of these guys that measures the exact amount off the lands and all of that good stuff)

Anyway, Thank you everyone.

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
well, there is something amiss with this particular rifle. In using the recommended Maximum OAL (2.860) it seems the cartridge is, as many suspected, a bit to long. Why I don't know. I am using Nosler Partition 200 grain bullets. I have reduced the OAL by 5 thousandths and it now seems to be okay. ( I am not one of these guys that measures the exact amount off the lands and all of that good stuff)

Anyway, Thank you everyone.

I KNEW IT!!!! LOL

It's the only thing that made sense based on your story.

I am not familiar with the term SWAG.

What would that be AC?

quote:

SWAG

Scientific Wild Assed Guess!