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Glassbedding Sendero
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Picture of Jan
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My Remington Sendero .270 Winchester (yes, available some years ago!) has a aluminum bedding block. To enhance accuracy I intend to do a glassbedding job. Do you think this is usefull or do I better go out fishing?
Thank you!
Jan.
 
Posts: 113 | Location: Terschelling, the Netherlands | Registered: 19 January 2004Reply With Quote
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I have had great success bedding over the aluminum bedding blocks.
 
Posts: 868 | Location: maryland | Registered: 25 July 2004Reply With Quote
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Just because it has an aluminum bedding block does not mean that bedding block is making proper contact. Take the time. It is well worth it.


Free men should not be subjected to permits, paperwork and taxation in order to carry any firearm. NRA Benefactor
 
Posts: 1652 | Location: Deer Park, Texas | Registered: 08 June 2005Reply With Quote
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To enhance accuracy I intend to do a glassbedding job. Do you think this is usefull or do I better go out fishing?


Do the bedding job. Then go fishing while the epoxy cures.....you can do both.

The glass bedding is definitely worth the expense and time.


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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Ditto what they said. The aluminum block was originally intended to allow repeated dissassembly and reassembly without changing POI. It was never intended to be the end-all in the accuracy department although it has been hyped as such by almost everyone.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11143 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Two very important things to keep in mind.

RELEASE agent!!!

Small amounts of epoxy at a time, don't glue it all at once like I did.

have a stock & gun that's all one piece!!

George


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George L. Dwight
 
Posts: 6083 | Location: Pueblo, CO | Registered: 31 January 2006Reply With Quote
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I'd go ahead and have some fun doing a bedding job on it. If you've never done it before read all you can on the net about it. Practice on a couple of old junk stocks or get a second ( or two) from Boyd's. It's not hard but practice makes perfect.


it's a fresh wind that ... Blows Against the Empire
 
Posts: 225 | Location: houston, tx | Registered: 04 February 2003Reply With Quote
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It will void the warranty on your stock but, that really doesn't matter. I can't see you doing enough damage to an HS to have warranty work required.

Good Luck

Reloader
 
Posts: 4146 | Location: North Louisiana | Registered: 18 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Just taken delivery 10 days ago of my first ever .300 win mag, a Sendero SF11 fluted in HS stock, on taking trigger pull down to an acceptable level I found that the mortice for the recoil lug was a good 1/8 larger than the lug itself and hence once the action screws were backed off one 1/2 turn there was an 1/8" of laterl movement fore and aft until the lug butted back against the bedding block, this did not seem to me to be conducive to good and repeatable accuracy.

I roughened up the front edge of the mortice with a chisel and then after applying a suitable release agent I filled the mortice with Micro bed, just enough so as to fill the mortice when the action was set into the stock, as the barrel channel is fully floated to have got compound into their would only have required me to clear it out after curing, so I kept the compound to a minimum.

First test on the range following this and trigger pull lightening gave a 3 shot group with one brand of factory loaded 180 soft point of around 3/8", this was repeated almost at once with a similar weight bullet of another make.

I cannot say how it would have shot before bedding as I never tried it, but I can vouch that it shoots well enough with bedding in place, my time was therefore not wasted
 
Posts: 346 | Location: York / U.K | Registered: 14 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Jonathan Tomlinson:

I roughened up the front edge of the mortice with a chisel and then after applying a suitable release agent I filled the mortice with Micro bed, just enough so as to fill the mortice when the action was set into the stock, as the barrel channel is fully floated to have got compound into their would only have required me to clear it out after curing, so I kept the compound to a minimum.

Thank you, folks, for your input. Somewhere I red:
[Here are suggestions as to how far to glass bed the barrel channel. Regardless of what is written be sure the bedding covers the center of gravity of the complete barreled action. Take the barreled action and balance it (without scope). The point of balance is the minimum extent of bedding: If your barrel is a feather weight (lighter than the normal sporter weight) you can stop the bedding about 1 to 1¼ inch forward of the recoil lug. If a sporter barrel, make it 1¼ to 1½ inch. If a bench rest barrel (commonly called bull barrel) make it 2¼ to 2½ inches. The goal in bedding this area is to relieve the action of stress caused by barrel leverage at the breech threads. When finished the rest of barrel should touch nothing.]
This is not quite in line with what Jonathan states. Any opinion on this controversy? Thanks.
 
Posts: 113 | Location: Terschelling, the Netherlands | Registered: 19 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Any opinion on this controversy? Thanks.



I think it is totaly bogus.

Look at how most all guns are glassed. If you were to bed to the balance point of the barreled action, you'd be bedding way up the barrel channel on HB rigs and how many bench target shooters do you see doing that? Big Grin

I think is best to float the barrel to start w/. If you want to test the theory place a shim under the barrel at different spots. If you achieve better accuracy somehow w/ the shim in place, by all means bed away.

Good Luck

Reloader
 
Posts: 4146 | Location: North Louisiana | Registered: 18 February 2004Reply With Quote
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