I don't know if they are the best, or not. But I have nothing but RCBS dies (in the calibers they are available). Oh...oops...I lied...I have one set of Lee and one set of Hornady.

How many sets of dies have I had? A couple of hundred...

I used to use RCBS because that was what was available at the local stores growing up. I am gradually selling the RCBS dies that give me too much runout and am replacing them with Redding dies, which I have been happier with. RCBS does a decent job on the medium (375 H&H) and big (over .400) bore dies because they cut the body and neck with the same reamer.

On any of the cartridges where you have different neck diameters on a common parent case (eg the .308, 7mm-08, .260 family) RCBS cuts the body and shoulder with one reamer, and the neck with another reamer. That is cheaper, but it does introduce an extra step into the manufacturing process. This would also be a factor with the 7mm, 300, and 375 Ultra mags.

I also like the idea that there is more surface area on the threads and a larger diameter on the shaft where the expander ball shaft enters the Redding resizing die. It has been easier for me (remember, an "n" of 1) to find the "sweet spot" where the expander ball causes the least runout with my Redding dies.

By definition Big Bore cases have larger diameter necks. This means that a touch of runout has less of an effect on accuracy than it would in a small caliber round. Added to this is the much greater inertia of a 300 - 500 grain bullet compared to a 100 - 200 grain bullet. That means big bore bullets really want to follow the same flight path. Given a modicum of care in manufacture and assembly big bore rifles are inherently more accurate than a smaller bore constructed to the same absolute (not relative) specs.

Another thing that helps the equation is that you don't find too many VLD or other hyper-critical bullet designs loaded in big bore guns. Other than the newer 50 BMG competition bullets thaer are none. Blunter projectiles are more forgiving of a touch of runout or wobble.

I'll end this shaggy dog story by saying that for big bore rifles, if the dies come in a green box from New York or California you will be ok.

When you resize your first case (with the expander ball out), measure the runout. If the case shows .002" or less runout you are good to go.

JCN

PS I'll second the opinion of my distinguished colleague Ruger458numerouno above that a Lee factory crimp die is a required part of any big bore die set. You will pay for it the first time that you don't bugger up five expensive cases trying to seat the bullet and crimp in the same operation. Light a candle for Mr. Lee's soul the next time you go to mass. His invention has improved the quality of my life more than duct tape ever will.



PPS I just noticed that Mr. ricciardelli posted ahead of me. Please disregard my entire post. I defer to his edicts on all subjects regarding reloading, ballistics, and choice of powders, primers, and brass. In the area of deportment I will keep my own counsel.

I think I've had dies from most of the major makers, and consider Redding head and shoulders above the rest, forster makes good stuff too.

I'm actually kind of ho hum on RCBS, their stuff is solid but not the most precisely machined. I especially don't care for their small dia seating die stems.

The only possible compatability isse I've heard of on the longer magnums is using redding's micrometer seating die on a co-ax press. Other then that, 7/8-14 dies work on one press as well as another.

I've been completely satisfied with RCBS dies for the 28 yrs I've been reloading both rifle and handgun rounds.

I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die on a number of rounds as it puts an excellent crimp crimp on the bullet.

I use a mix of RCBS & Redding for rifles, Dillon for most fo my pistol stuff. I'm moving more & more to Redding, I think their dies are just a bit better in quality control. I don't care much for Hornady & I just bought a Lee collet set to play w/ in .260.

This topic may have come up 10 or 20 times but I�m going to open the can of worms again. Of the major die makers, Foster, Lee, RCBS, Lyman, Hornady, and Redding, who makes the better dies for Magnum rifles (375 H&H). I find that the prices are all about the same within a $10 range depending on where you get them. What are the differences? Is one truly better of worse for the 375? Lastly how interchangeable are the dies with different presses? Thanks for the info.

Redding sizing dies and forster seaters. I love this combo.

I am not sure this can be answered absolutely! Forster benchrest dies are excellent, as are Redding's dies. I have never had a complaint about any of my RCBS dies either, but mine are just standard sets, not anything special. I have never used any of the custom or semi-custom dies like Wilson or Vickerman, etc.

Wow guys thanks for the info. Seems that Redding gets nod for sizing but other makers have there specialty as well. (Lee crimping, Foster seating) How practical is it to just get the �best� die for the given job, as apposed to just buying a �die set�? I�m new to reloading and looking for the best I can afford to load for my new .375. The questions just seem to keep on coming�



one other question, will all of the dies in question work in any press?

I just got my first set of redding dies in .404 Jeff and they are really nice.

I also use rcbs .375 H&H and they make good ammo. I also have one set of Hornady and one set of ch4. Redding and rcbs would be my pick.

There is no problem at all buying just a Redding resizer, and just a Forster seating die. Get a catalogue from Sinclair http://www.sinclairintl.com/. They have most of these dies individually, and in sets. You can get the Lee Factory crimp die from Midway, Graf & Sons, just about anywhere. My favorite place to buy reloading equipment is http://www.gunstop.com/ . The owner is named John. He is a pleasure to work with.
While you are thumbing through the Sinclair catalogue take a hard look at the Redding T-7 Turret press. It is strong and precise, and you can have all your various dies set up and ready to go in their own individual station.
All the dies in question will work in that press.
You are asking the right questions, and your approach of using the best tools possible is the correct one. You will be happier spending your money on the best tools and components than you would ever be from buying a fancy new car, or a house that is too big.
Please keep asking questions. It forces me to look at how and why I do things. It is easy for me to believe that my approach is a good one. It is harder and more fruitful when I have to explain why I belive that to be so.

There are a lot of good powders for the .375 H&H. I favor Reloder 15. A lot of people like one of the 4350 powders. People used to use WW 760, but I found it to be dirty. Anyways, when you ask what is the best powder for this cartridge you will open up another can of worms.
JCN

That set up will do right by you. I like the new Redding shell holders. They are a little more open in front so you can get your brass casing in and out more easily.

Just take this reloading stuff one baby step at a time. It is tremendous fun, teaches you all about how your rifle works, and best of all, you can start an argument at the drop of a hat by telling someone else that their reloading recipes or procedures are wrong.

JCN
Get some Imperial sizing wax by Redding also. It is a great case lube, you put it on with your fingers, and it cleans off easily with a paper towel moistened with alcohol.

John
Thanks for the info. Looking for individual dies is more money however better gear is the way to go. Now I have another question, what dies exactly do I need? I called RCBS about a week ago and I was ready to give up on the reloading thing altogether. Cabelas and midways catalogs are not any better. I think I need a Full length resizing die with decapping pin (Redding), a bullet seating die (foster) and a lee crimping die, and someone�s shell holder. That should cover the dies am I right?

JCN is right, Imperial sizing wax is the way to go for lubing your cases, simply the best. I have had better luck with the Redding benchrest seating dies than anything else, the Forster micrometer seating die I got in .270 is not 'open' enough in the seating steam to accomodate several of the bullets I like, (e.g. the Nosler Accubond) and induces far more runout than my Reddings. For f/l sizing my Reddings are measurably better than my RCBS. Almost abything Wilson makes is of excellent quality, but I sill lean toward Redding.

PS-JCN I only wipe off my Imperial with a plain paper towel, should I be using some denatured on them?

No contest. It has to be the Lee collet die. Especialy for the .375. I've tried most of the other name brand, including so called "bench rest", dies and have come to the conclusion that all they are good for is destroying cases.

thanks to all for the help. Ill keep you all posted on what I get and how my progress is going.