Any idea what would be a good spray application type herbicide for west Texas Cedar? Growing faster than I can cut it.

I use 24D on pasture land and it kills just about everything except grass. Have not tried it on west Texas cedar, but what it does kill, stays dead, (unlike roundup). Awesome stuff, a little goes a long way.

I don't know whether you are looking at red/white cedar or the invasive salt cedar, there is some difference. Look for a product label that specifically lists cedar. I think most that work on them have 24D and a addititive like dicamba. Cedars and pines can be difficult to to get good kill on because they can develop a waxy coating on the leaves that may reduce the herbicides ability to penetrate. You might need to add an adjuvant to get good control. Timing on treatment can have a big effect, too. Talk to a your extension agent or service forester.
Hope this helps.
Bfly

As Blackfly stated there is a tremendous difference between the species. Timing can be everything as well.


If it is the invasive Salt Cedar it is easier to control.....use the 2 pound version of Arsenal.

I've never went after the red or white
cedar but see your county extension agent, he will have some ideas. (I'm in the forested part of East TX)


There is a lot of differences in herbicides as well ie....the % active ingredient in a given formulation. A 41% glyphosate (roundup's active ingredient) will kill billy hell out of a lot of things, but 12% aint worth the time to put it out.
(2 gallons of 41% glyphosate mixed with 10 gallons of water sprayed from a helicopter will kill every sweetgum and oak on an acre of land or you can use just 16 oz of 4 lb Arsenal at the right time of the year to do the same job)


If it is a prolific seeder, then chances are you allready have a seed bank established and or birds will consume the seeds fly over and re-seed your place. Ever see the first seedlings start on fence rows? Wonder why? Thats where the birds light on the fence and the seeds in their droppings start to germinate.


PM me if I can help further.

Cut the stump and treat with Remedy and oil. Or you can use Tordon 22K on the foliage with a surf. or a pine resin. PM me I can tell you better than I type. I work in the industry for a long time. I also grew up in west texas. I've got alot of experence.

Ed

FIRE when used properly by professionals can be a cheap and very effective means to control cedar trees(because it burns the trees, their seedlings, and the litter associated with cedars). Following fire, good management of grazing animals (if you have them) and other vegetation to prevent excess erosion is crucial.

Fire is not an option due to the density of the cedar. Set one cedar on fire an you would burn the country side down.

30378,
Fire is a great option you just have to control it. Coincider what you will pay in time and material for herbicide and compare that to having someone blade you some fire lanes. There are so many benefits to fire besides just killing the cedars and with a hebicide all you get is dead cedar. We burn twice a year and you should see our pastures. We had new brush species appear that had not been present since the 60s due to over population of goats and deer.

Perry

You need to identify your tree.

Most people call the Junipers "Cedars". They look like cedar. A lot of West Texas has Junipers, not cedars.

If you have red cedar, Red Stag are the best at devouring them. Not too sure why, but they will destroy them!

Ask your county extension agent. You have already paid for his services, might as well use him. He will know the trees in your area and the best method to control them.

Fire is an option, but careful planning should be done. Once again, consult the county extension agent.

A friend of mine who has ranced in Texas for all of his life, once told me, "I never set a fire I did not regret."

Also, a dozer is effective tree controll. I find that some of the smaller dozers like a D4 or small D5 provide a good "feel" for individual tree removal. Push the tree over, pop the root out and get under the root and completely remove the root and all. (not effective with mesquite.)

I have a D7 and I can not "feel" the tree properly to remove it. I usually wind up cutting the stump and leaving the roots in the ground.

If there are no rocks in the area, try a dozer with a grubber blade. That will effectively take care of any tree, even the mesquites, if done properly.

Like Wendell said, mechanical or removal by fire is the best method. Tried and true, there are not many chemicals that have an effect on cedars, junipers and such.

2-4-D is a broadleaf herbicide, and the stuff you buy now days is nothing like the stuff of the past. Butal Ester would kill anything with broad leaves if mixed properly. They are all pretty much some form of salt. The new brands/types of 2-4-D, unless you can get it from your county weed and pest, is watered down, it is affective but hard to kill trees (broadleaf) if they have any size. Not saying it won't but you have to almost soak them. Or mix the 2-4-D with Banvel or roundup! Now you are talking plant death!!

Now if can get your hands on some Paraquat!

I took a dozer to it. Good days work on a dozer and man, what a difference.

How about liberalcide? Anyone have any ideas how to prevent the breeding of sub-human, ignorant liberals?