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tusks protection
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boarkiller
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Just wondering what to use for protecting ele tusks in very dry climate like Montana from cracking?
Oil, wax etc... or any other products?


" Until the day breaks and the nights shadows flee away " Big ivory for my pillow and 2.5% of Neanderthal DNA flowing thru my veins.
When I'm ready to go, pack a bag of gunpowder up my ass and strike a fire to my pecker, until I squeal like a boar.
Yours truly , Milan The Boarkiller - World according to Milan
PS I have big boar on my floor...but it ain't dead, just scared to move...

Man should be happy and in good humor until the day he dies...
Only fools hope to live forever
“ Hávamál”
 
Posts: 13376 | Location: In mountains behind my house hunting or drinking beer in Blacksmith Brewery in Stevensville MT or holed up in Lochsa | Registered: 27 December 2012Reply With Quote
Bob Keeler
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I've been using baby oil in Wyoming. Have two sets of elephant tusks. One set thirteen years and the other eleven years. No sign of cracking look beautiful I oil them three to four times a year

Hippo teeth I lost on them as the big tusks all split. If I was to do them again I would fill them with epoxy and see if that would stop them from splitting.
 
Posts: 195 | Location: Douglas, Wyoming | Registered: 14 August 2006Reply With Quote
Bob Keeler
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I still have the pictures of your monster elephant and buff you sent me earlier this year. Wow!! I'm slowly sorting my path out on how I'm going to get there. Hope the info helps on what I've done for the ele tusks.
 
Posts: 195 | Location: Douglas, Wyoming | Registered: 14 August 2006Reply With Quote
MARK H. YOUNG
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boarkiller,

As Bob said Baby Oil is the way to go.

Mark


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Posts: 12877 | Location: LAS VEGAS, NV USA | Registered: 04 August 2002Reply With Quote
boarkiller
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Thanks Bob and Mark.
Now I have to figure how to build the stands.
Gonna do it myself, not trying to save money, just more to do things on your own.
Hell, the only hunts I ever been guided on is Africa and all my heads are done by myself skulls only except my leopard.
Good luck Bob. You"ll be in good hands.
Heading back there 10/2014


" Until the day breaks and the nights shadows flee away " Big ivory for my pillow and 2.5% of Neanderthal DNA flowing thru my veins.
When I'm ready to go, pack a bag of gunpowder up my ass and strike a fire to my pecker, until I squeal like a boar.
Yours truly , Milan The Boarkiller - World according to Milan
PS I have big boar on my floor...but it ain't dead, just scared to move...

Man should be happy and in good humor until the day he dies...
Only fools hope to live forever
“ Hávamál”
 
Posts: 13376 | Location: In mountains behind my house hunting or drinking beer in Blacksmith Brewery in Stevensville MT or holed up in Lochsa | Registered: 27 December 2012Reply With Quote
Bob Keeler
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For the size of the Ivory you took you may need the amount of oil being produced from one of those eastern Montana Oil wells that hit the Bakken Formation.

My ivory just needs the economy bottle from the Dollar Store for both of my sets that I have home with a bunch left over for the two sets still in Zim. You did very, very well.

Thanks for the well wishes and good luck on your hunting.
 
Posts: 195 | Location: Douglas, Wyoming | Registered: 14 August 2006Reply With Quote
mauritz45
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i have a few knives with ivory scales and a set of grips for a 1911. a custom knife maker recommended mineral oil.--cam
 
Posts: 157 | Location: san francisco bay area | Registered: 23 November 2007Reply With Quote
Todd Williams
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There are several threads on this very subject. I was advised previously to use Bees Wax. That's what I've been using for the past few years and it seems to work well.
 
Posts: 8497 | Registered: 09 January 2011Reply With Quote
Kyler Hamann
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It seems like a couple threads on this topic recommended furniture wax. Now the consensus seems to be baby oil. I’m not sure what the real answer is, maybe either will work fine.


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Posts: 2506 | Location: Central Coast of CA | Registered: 10 January 2002Reply With Quote
Todd Williams
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quote:
Originally posted by Kyler Hamann:
It seems like a couple threads on this topic recommended furniture wax. Now the consensus seems to be baby oil. I’m not sure what the real answer is, maybe either will work fine.


Yep, exactly! I've been using furniture wax with Bee's Wax as the main component, as stated above.
 
Posts: 8497 | Registered: 09 January 2011Reply With Quote
jdollar
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quote:
Originally posted by Bob Keeler:
I've been using baby oil in Wyoming. Have two sets of elephant tusks. One set thirteen years and the other eleven years. No sign of cracking look beautiful I oil them three to four times a year

Hippo teeth I lost on them as the big tusks all split. If I was to do them again I would fill them with epoxy and see if that would stop them from splitting.

same here with hippo tusks. the 2 big ones split within 2 weeks of getting them home. luckily they split long ways so i was able to epoxy them back together. now i keep them all coated in baby oil. after a year now, so far so good Whistling


Vote Trump- Putin’s best friend…
 
Posts: 13170 | Location: Georgia | Registered: 28 October 2006Reply With Quote
shakari
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Posted for my old mate Scriptus. For some reason my current version of Photobucket will only store in landscape not in portrait so you'll have to turn your head to view! Wink



I've gotta say, I've always used Johnson's clear baby oil and it's worked for me.

If mounting in stands etc, I'd suggest using silicon that is slightly soft and will allow for expansion/contraction of the tusks rather than a rock hard 2 part epoxy adhesive.






 
Posts: 12415 | Registered: 01 July 2002Reply With Quote
Scriptus
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quote:
Originally posted by shakari:
Posted for my old mate Scriptus. For some reason my current version of Photobucket will only store in landscape not in portrait so you'll have to turn your head to view! Wink



I've gotta say, I've always used Johnson's clear baby oil and it's worked for me.

If mounting in stands etc, I'd suggest using silicon that is slightly soft and will allow for expansion/contraction of the tusks rather than a rock hard 2 part epoxy adhesive.


Thanks for the help. This stuff is recommended by Arno Bernard for the various slabs [natural material, warthog etc] used as fillets for his knives. http://www.arnobernard.com/servlet/StoreFront Cool
 
Posts: 3297 | Location: South of the Equator. | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
Dulcinea
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Scott's liquid gold was suggested ofr horns and antlers.

I used this on my tusks that sat in zim for three years.
I watched the tusks soak this up for three applications.
They look beautiful now.

I use it once a year on all my trophies.


What counts is what you learn after you know it all!!!
 
Posts: 711 | Location: York,Pa | Registered: 27 February 2003Reply With Quote
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