quote:

Originally posted by Northman56751:
Thanks for the picture.....kind of the layout I will have.

Have you had any issues with the roof/snow load on the walls?
None whatsoever. I can't remember the calculations, but a heavier snow load than we get was calculated.

I like the idea of the roof line being 5 ft. above the windows but in my case, I don't think it will work. Since the entire roof line on my house runs east/west and the addition will run north/south, I have to be very careful not to get my roof height to far above my existing house.
My original house was a tri-level and I originally wanted the trophy room ridge to meet the ridge of the upstairs of the tri-level. A design change during construction put the TR ridge 6" above the tri-level ridge. At that point I could have raised the TR ridge another 2' without any problems. Hindsight.

On the reply for Julian and Sons. Thanks.....I would love to, but don't think they're in my budget.

quote:

Originally posted by Northman56751:
I plan on putting a 30x30 trophy room addition onto my house and have a few questions.....

Lights
* Can, track or LED? Since I live in northern MN, I worry about doing a lot of can lighting due to moisture/enough insulation. Use the LED can lights. In the long run you will save money
* How are the LED's as far as casting light vs. the standard can/recessed lights?
* Any recc. on where to buy the lights.............website?


In order to get the best ceiling height, what would you do?
* Parallel cord trusses
* Scissor trusses Probably your best bet. Easy to install and does not have the large heel height
* Big horizontal load bearing ridge beam with I joist floor trusses tied into it

On the parallel cord trusses, I just found out the heal height will be about 3 feet!! With 9 or 10 foot walls and a 7/12 pitch, the roof on my addition would be about 8 feet higher than my existing roof. Would look weird since I have a 1 level rambler

On the scissor trusses, in most cases the bottom part of the truss is about 1/2 the pitch of the top. So, if i have a 7/12 pitch, the bottom part of the truss would be a 5/12 pitch, lowering my ceiling height by about 2 feet. Leaves me with only about 14 feet to the top

Center beam with I joists. I prefer this but it does have a couple of drawbacks. It is very labor intensive and a lot more money. None of the truss companies will sign off on it as it isn't a truss. They will supply the materials and say it can be done, but won't sign off on it. Also, where the one vertical support beam (for the horizontal ridge beam) would be located, is right in the middle of the entry into the trophy room from the house (see hunting camp pic.)! I want at least a 6 foot opening into the room so that shoots that to hell! If I eliminate or shorten this vertical beam, i will have try transfer the load somewhere else....as in around and down the sides of the entry. We have this similar construction at our hunting camp but since it (camp) has a loft in it, the one vertical support beam (has 3 - one at each end and 1 in the center) in the center of the cabin is concealed, on the main level, as it is tied into the wall/steps.

The construction is going to be (from outside in):
* Vapor barrier (Tyvek or similar)
* 2" Styrofoam Not sure of R value requirements in MN but in Mi that wont be needed. Could use 3/4" and with great interior insulation you will be fine.
* 2x6 Walls with either batt insul. or spray foam Stay away from the batts. Very old school. Spray foam or blown cellulose is far better. Some houses i use a combination of both. A 1" layer of foam then fill the bay with cellulose
* 3/4 plywood on interior of studs. Will get my shear strength here
* Drywall


Hunting Camp
The vertical support beam behind the moose is the one that would be smack dab in the middle of the entrance going from the house into the trophy room!


Any pictures from some other trophy rooms that are similar would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks......