2 Table spoons melted Anhydrous lanolin.
1 Cup 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (obtained from a hospitol supply or can be ordered thru your pharmacist by the pint quart or gal.)
Total cost about 75 cents per 8 oz. Sure beats $8 for the over the counter/mail order stuff and works just as good.

Use a trigger spray bottle to apply.
There will be some sedament of the impurities in the tech
grade AL but there seems to be no problem with it, just shake the bottle before use. Or you can run it thru a paint strainer to remove the sedament but you will loose some AL in the process.

Calamity Jake

Were do you get the lanolin?and it sounds like the mix will be comparable to dillon's case lube is it?

From what I remember of chemistry class (not much), you better keep that stuff sealed tight or it will suck water right out of the air.

And I would not wanna be squirting it anywhere there might be a spark, static of otherwise.

I've been using my own home made case lube for years. I go down to the local Walmart and buy a bottle of STP. Alls well and it's cheap!
Jim

I have a friend that told me his Dad tought him to lube with crisco. The STP sounds interesting though.

While doing some case forming I was unhappy with the lube I had been using. Imperial Sizing Wax wasn't quickly available so I obtained a lube packaged by one of the major bullet suppliers. When I opened the container the odor and appearance of the contents were familiar to me. I had what seems the same material in my shop under it's original label. The quantity in the original was considerably greater and the price considerably less than the package marked by the bullet manufacturer. They work identically well and are applied from the fingers in very small quantities which lets you keep it off the sloped shoulder of the case. Might not appeal to guys who are doing a large number of cases and want faster application but for my purpose it is ideal. Original product is "Smiling Mink" leather treatment. Coincidentally the package provided by the bullet manufacturer has a one line notaion that it is good for applying to leather.

I ordered some of the water free lanolin from sages and the sent me a bar of scented soap along with my lanolin. This stuff smells so nice I gave it to my wife. The places I used to work, if you smelled that good they would look at you funny.

I made up a small batch of the case lube and it seems to work as good as the stuff Midway sells in the little spray bottle. I haven't tried case forming or anything with it just neck and full length resizing. The only problem is I think I have a lifetime plus supply. (I'm pretty old, so lifetime is a little different to me)

do you have a link for sages I am having problems finding anhyrous lanolin

Lloyd,

For a local supply of lanolin, go to your drugstore (Better yet, send your wife), and ask for a tube of "breast cream for nursing mothers". I kid you not. The label shows it to be pure lanolin and my tube has been working fine as case lube.

Here is the site address for sage;

http://www.the-sage.com/

Hi Guys,
I heard that STP works but have been using "brake assembly fluid". It's the stuff you put on rubber seals when rebuilding automotive brake cylinders. Works like a million$ & only costs about $3.00 for 4 oz. Any good auto parts store has it. Brand doesn't matter.

I've been using a can of Honda Anti-Friction Silicone spray for the last few years. I was searching for a less expensive easy-to-find replacement for the commercial One-Shot case lube I had used previously.

Silicone spray dries to a thick feeling film, similar to lanolin in texture. Key to the silicone spray trick is only using a very little of the spray in a large gallon zip-lock bag loosely full of cases, then rolling the cases around inside the bag to spread the slickness around while the carrier is still there to help the spread of the silicone.

If the silicone winds up coating the inside of the bag lightly after rolling then I know I got enough on the cases (there was enough to coat the bag too).

This is very economical & very easy to use and it has done case forming just fine. If you keep and use the same bag, you get a "build-up" bonus from the residues on the inside of the bag.

If I only have a case or 10 to do, I throw them into the bag dry and just rub them around with the coated plastic bag walls using my hands -- it transfers film left over from the last uses and the cases feel slick when they come out of the bag.

In other words, the stuff has good Grumbleconomics.

Oldfeller

go buy yourself a lifetime supply......get a GALLON of chainsaw bar oil. It has something in it to make it tacky and the consistency is just perfect for rubbing a few drops between the fingers and then rolling the case. Not as viscous as STP but heavier than other 'oils'. last jug of Stihl brand bar oil I bought was about $5...for the saw of course..he-he!

Notice how we always seem to start out doing it the "book-proper" way then we start figuring out how to do it either better (for accuracy) or on the cheap so we can actually shoot more?

Speaking of being cheap, I need to go crank up the mil-surp powder orders for the Spring 2004 Cast Bullet shoot. We need to pool our bulk powder needs into a goodly sized bulk buy to get NO shipping NO hasmat and a goodly sized discount out of one of the two mil-surp powder vendors.

Oldfeller