Hey all,

Working on RE-Lee-menting my new
Lee 452-255-RF mold.

Seems Epoxy is not a good choice of handle
to mold glue when the mold *might* just happen to take an occasional dip into hot lead.....

To make a long story short....
I Part-1 lee-mented my new mold. Cast a bunch of bullets for mold lapping (Part II).... and managed to burn loose my epoxy handle "Fixative."

How does it cast so far?
1. No lube, grease, etc.

2. Straight WW lead. Lee 4-20 pot set at #7 (Which I later found out is about 1,030F -- way too hot, but fills out real nice)

3. Mold bolt needs a good whack to pop out the bullets.... Has a nice burr on the cavity parting line that needs work.

4. Bullets are not round -- small at the parting line. This is probably partially a function of the parting line burr.

5. Cavities do not cast the same diameter.

Cav #1 -- Large diameter avg 0.4533, std dev 0.00028, Small diameter avg 0.4517, std dev 0.00037
Cav #2 -- Large diameter avg 0.4541, std dev 0.00036, Small diameter avg 0.4522, std dev 0.00026.

What should I use for handle glue?
Would hi-temp silicone hold, or is there some other sort of epoxy resin that would be a good choice.

I wish I had some Phenolic resin handy....

Thanks

John

Duro Bond adhesives. Model 950 or 952 or 954. In order aluminum, nickel, and stainless steel. Lowest temperature is 1200 degs, that's the aluminum one 950. Should be able to find them in a good hardware store.

Joe

My (non Lee) handles are secured with JB weld, which has yet to melt. No doubt it would melt, if it got hot enough, but normal casting temperatures don't seem to phase it.

"Small at the parting line" suggests the mold is not closing completely.

I've never seen a mold marked with a cavity #, but it is quite common for the rear cavity -- on any mold -- to drop out smaller because the rear cavity has more thermal inertia (handles adjacent to rear, sprue plate attached to rear).

In any event, the golden rule of casting is to cast oversize and rely on a sizing die to produce the final diameter. In recent years mold manufacturers seem to have forgotten that rule.

I need to find some of this Duro Bond stuff.
It probably has many uses for me.

On cavity id... I called them 1 and 2 -- they were not numbered by Lee. I will lap the smaller one up to the same size as the larger one.... as I want them to be mostly the same size.

On size, the larger ID one is farthest from the handles. I would guess that 0.0008" difference would be OK to Lee.

As for not closing all the way -- I haven't blued up the parting line yet, so the sine forms or alignment pins could be holding them open 0.002" or so

the parting line on the slugs is minimal. There are pretty good gouge marks on the bullets from the machining burrs left on the inside of the cavities parting line (Cheap Lee molds).... and this may be where some of the undersize is coming from.

Thanks

John

quote:

Originally posted by TruckJohn:
On size, the larger ID one is farthest from the handles. I would guess that 0.0008" difference would be OK to Lee.

Just a guess, of course, but chances are both cavities are the same diameter and the rear cavity drops smaller due to more thermal inertia, as discussed before.

Truck John; I use Permatex Threadlocker Red to afix the handles to the mold, one good drop on each side, then put a couple rubber bands around the handles and let it set for a day, it won't come loose.Be sure you don't tip the mold and get thread locker where you don't want it, it is about the consistancy of water. To check if your mold is closing all the way, swing the sprue plate open and hold the mold up to a light, if there's a gap you'll see it. Scot

Do you realize that you've got a 2 years warrenty on all LEE stuff?

Clear silicone adhesive caulk works pretty well, and I also agree with using JB Weld too.

I burned out all the Epoxy -- which is a royal pain.

Note to anyone thinking of Lee-menting with Epoxy.... Don't do it

I have a nice tube of Ultra-Copper silicone gasket maker. It says it can take up to 700F intermittent, which should be plenty.

I doubt Lee would warranty this mold:

1. It is well within their 0.003" published casting tolerance.

2. Both bullets fill out fine

3. Both bullets cast within 0.0008" of eachother.

Thanks

John

TJ; the reason I use the thread locker red is because it is thin enough to run in where it will do some good, and stands up to the heat. I have also found that if you will remove the center bolt from the handles and file the inside surfaces smooth(the 1/2 holes look like Lee punches them thru), then coat them with spray graphite, tighten the bolt and locknut just enough to give free, smooth opening before affixing the blocks to the tongues with thread locker alignment will be closer(no burrs to wear dowm between the handles) You can also heat the mold on the stove to help the thread locker set faster, I like about three rubber bands around the handles until it is fully cured, I also store my molds with a rubber band around the handles just as added insurance forb an unexpected drop or bump.

They is some stuff called J_B Weld 2 part stuff if everthing is clean , I have seen Engine blocks fixed with it.