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| Hi Ricochet! That was one of the shortest and clearest explainations of quenching I have ever heard! "So Cool!", as the kids say. Oh, my point! I heat treat right out of an automated casting machine.... Exact adjustable timers control the pour, the wait before the sprue is cut, and the wait when the blocks are open for cooling. You can make WW harder than linotype- this I know. Dale |
| Posts: 301 | Location: Xenia,Il. 62899 | Registered: 14 November 2003 |
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| Here's what's happening: When the alloy cools down, a bit below the solidification temperature antimony (and some other alloy metals as well) becomes incompatible with the crystalline structure of lead. Above this temperature it's in a uniform "solid solution." When the alloy cools slowly, the supersaturated antimony is pretty mobile within the lead crystal lattice, and will migrate to form relatively large crystals, the lowest energy state for it. This results in a soft alloy, as the lead's malleability is due to the easy slippage of the atomic planes in the lead crystals and the relatively few and large crystals of precipitated antimony don't do much to disturb this. When you suddenly quench the "solid solution," it's trapped in that form at a temperature way below where the antimony can "dissolve" in the lead. For a short while it continues in this state, but it's unstable. The antimony atoms will clump together and form separate crystals in a lead matrix as before, but because the antimony atoms can't move so readily in the cold lead, they migrate short distances and form many very tiny crystals. These pin together the slipping atomic planes of the lead, making the alloy much harder. Back to the original question: When you start heat treating boolits that have been annealed, they contain the relatively large and few antimony crystals. You must first heat them to a temperature above that at which the antimony can exist as a "solid solution," then maintain it long enough for those crystals to dissolve and for the antimony to diffuse more or less evenly through the matrix, then you can quench it. If you're casting and drop the bullets from the mould into the water before the antimony begins precipitating, you get optimum hardness without the wait. The problem is in judging when the temperature's just right, and you have more control of that with the oven treatment. (If you move fast from the oven to the water.)
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| Posts: 1325 | Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA | Registered: 24 December 2003 |
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| Ricochet, Kudos for your explanation of metallurgy! For Bug & Dale, you can heat-treat for 50 mins. at max. temp. for your alloy (WW + 1% Sn I assume) and exceed the hardness of linotype...in theory. I.e., you can surpass lino's hardness IF you first size and then oven heat-treat. However, if you water-drop and then size your CB's you will have drastically softened the outer layer of the bullet according to metallurgist Dennis Marshall. In other words, there really IS a difference between theory and practice in this instance. ...Maven |
| Posts: 480 | Location: N.Y. | Registered: 09 January 2003 |
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| Very good explanation, my hats off to you. I too am lazy and water drop and shoot without sizing. I get excellent results so I won't bother with the oven method. I have never figured out how to keep the soft boolits from getting damaged on the trip into the water. I can't picture a pan full of boolits getting poured into a bucket. (least of all in the kitchen. A 500 degree boolit on the floor is not good.) |
| Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003 |
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| Quote:
I have trouble with the still-soft bullets getting dinged up in the drop, too. Putting something soft in the bottom of the bucket prevents that only until the bullets start piling up, then the new ones land on previously dropped, hard bullets. That's where the dings come in. I suppose putting a "ramp" of something soft and springy enough not to dent them under the surface of the water, that would impede their progress and then let them roll down into the pile, would alleviate the problem. Just thought of it, though, haven't tried it.
Put a kitchen sponge in the bucket, it will float and you can drop the bullets onto the sponge. The bullets will unbalance it, tip it and they will roll off, but by the time they do they will have hardened sufficiently from contact with the waterlogged sponge to resist damage. Besides, they only have to fall the height of the bucket.
I've tried this and it works. |
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| Good idea, but you won't get me off my lazy butt to try it. I am retired and get up early, spin twice and it is getting dark. Can't figure where the days go. I used to get all the work done at home before going to work. Now I can't understand how I managed to do that. |
| Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003 |
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| For those having trouble with dented bullets, why not try this:
Stop pouring your bullets altogether and get a container large enough that you can just quickly submerge your entire tray or basket containing you bullets. Just drop everything in the water.
just a thought, never tried it myself.
David |
| Posts: 355 | Location: Baton Rouge, LA | Registered: 07 August 2003 |
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