I am sure somewhere on the forum this has been ask before, so here comes the but can some one tell me what I should look for in sorting the weights have managed two gather up. Like somewhere I heard that the stick on weights would not be good bullet material.You know things of that nature. I have been in touch with one of our members here and he has been very helpful sending reading material on casting bullets and the like . Seeing I have never done this before and have no knowledge of things I need to start casting bullets. Thank you Guy's

Big 7,
There are other sites with more cast bullet discussion you can try such as "Cast Boolits".

The stick on weights I have melted down have been pretty much pure lead and measure off the bottom end of the Brinnell scale (5 or less). They are too soft to be use alone except for muzzle loaders.
If you are casting for a handgun or rifle velocities up to about 1400 the regular clip on weights will work. They will be about 10 to 12 Brinnell. Melt them at about 700 degrees F to get rid of the clips. Those that don't melt may be zinc and need to be pitched in the trash.

There is so much to cover you will need to get a couple of casting hand books and hang out at Cast Boolits a while.

That`s correct, temperature control while melting is vital...

Whether you melt in a small 10lb pot or have the means to melt in a large cauldron, keep the temperature below 700 degrees.
Zinc melts at a higher temperature so they stay at the top of the melt, and can be skimmed out with the metal clips.
The only way to monitor the temperature (accurately) is with a Temp. gauge meant for such efforts. Either the Lyman or RCBS dial gauge will do the job for you.
After your first melting effort, it gets a bit less problematic.
Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves!

If you cast bullets from WW's and you drop them from the mould directly into a bucket of water, it will temper them pretty hard. Then you can use them in rifles to a pretty decent velocity. To say that WW's are only good for handguns is incorrect. Another alloy, made with WW's that is very good is 50/50 WW's and lead. I use this a lot and I also water quench this to harden it. I have driven ww's and the alloy I just described to very high velocities in rifles.

I blend the stick on & clip on wts together when smelting. Poured into 4# ingots, they get added to the bottom pour pot. If I want a harder bullet, I add 1# of Lino to 20# of WW.

Over the last 20 years I have melted down quite a few 5-gallon buckets of wheel weights, and there was always a fair amount of stick-on weights included. To this point, I have yet to have a problem. I melt all the weights together, skim the clips, dirt and whatever else floats, and then pour the liquid into 1# ingots. The resulting ingots work perfectly "as is" for handgun bullets, but if I am doing something special and need a "pretty" bullet, I add a few ingots of lino. It only takes two or three to a full 20# pot... Any more than that and the bullets are too hard to obturate correctly at less than full magnum load pressures, and they tend to lead at reduced velocities.

Just now starting to learn about rifle casting. Have done a fair amount of BPCR with 20:1, but lino and/or quenched alloy is still very new to me.

Here is an article that explains much of this'

Cast Bullet Alloys