Felix, can you elaborate on the difference between sodium stearate and stearic acid. Ivory soap is sodium stearate. The soap making suppliers list stearic acid as a binder, thickener, and hardener for soaps and candles. How would it be in lube.

In your big batch I see you used jojoba oil. A seed oil/wax replacing sperm oil. At what point of your original recipe did you add it and blend it in, what are your thoughts on its use in the lube.

Thanks for your patience on these questions.

JD

Stearic acid, first off, is not really an acid as far as we are concerned. It is only so in chemical terms. Because it is an acid in chemical terms, it can easily carry a chemically basic metallic acting element like sodium, calcium, lithium, etc. The metal of choice is sodium for us because it raises the melting point in a final lube. All the others don't. Lithium, on the other hand, raises the viscosity of the final lube, so much so that it is too hard to manipulate the latter (except lube for shooting in shitty revolters). Stearic acid alone, without a metallic component, will actually lower the melting point of a lube, and will make it tend towards the too hard side for no added lubricating gain. Emu or jojoba oil has very fine molecules that encourage the lube to spread more evenly. Not important for hot weather, but definitely is a help for the first shot out of a barrel that has not been cleaned since the last outing. Also, it is not as important for barrels having well behaved grooves, that is, not too sharp of an angle at the land groove junction. ... felix

Speaking of shitty revolters, using stalube lithium based grease and bee's wax, I actually got an old 1917 Colt working again (along with 'discovering' it needed a .454 boolit). I've mentioned this before, but I bring it up again for three reasons. First, Felix mentioned it, and b) it is a last chance way to get something shooting you might want to give up on if it's all 'worn out'. I actually got the rifling quite visible again even though there are many very small pits. This fine old piece of history is usable again, AND a hoot to shoot! Lube was 50-50 stalube (moly type that uses lithium) and beeswax - stinks like hell to shoot. btw, I don't count or remember very well, so don't look for the third reason, even if I could remember it! sundog

Thanks Felix
Getting ready to brew a batch and would rather ask questions than goof up. Did you add the jojoba oil at the same time as the mineral oil and castor oil and cook them together?

Thanks,
JD

I added it at the end of the hot phase, after cooking the castor oil into the mineral oil, or other "base" oil of choice. Add the lanolin at the very last because that is when the heat is at its lowest point. Lanolin well start to char at 130 degrees, just above its apparent melting point. You need the other stuff in the lube to help keep this charing at a minimum. The other stuff tends to grab any excess heat. You can reheat the mix to quite hot after it has cooled and gelled for a day or two. Helps make the lube components get adjusted, like any other "alloy". ... felix

Thanks again Felix.
Hope you have a great Thanksgiving.

JD