I've just became the owner of one of the 'special order' Lee 8MM molds from Midsouth Shooting Supplies. The mold is suppose to cast a 215gr bullet. I got a chance to mold a few last night from straight wheelweights and the bullet is weighing 230grs according to my scale. I'm ordering a couple bars of Linotype from Midway & we'll see how they weigh out with some of that in the mix.

Question, anyone mind sharing some data for this bullet? Try as I might, I've not been able to find any data for a cast bullet this heavy.

Thanks to all,

Rick

Rick,
PM sent.

jim

Don't worry about the weight variations. This is a "Lee" thing, along with other makers. I have some of the Lee custom molds, and weight varies from 17 to 27 gr. variation from the stated weight.

Try around 17 gr. 2400.

Try castpics http://www.castpics.net/RandD/load_data/8x57/8x57.jpg

Steves Reloading has loads for Jacketed, they can be a start, use starting loads with 3031, 4895, 748 etc.

http://www.again.net/~steve/323_9_220.html


I shoot SR 860 and 870 surplus 50 cal powder with great success! Just mentioning using the slowest powders in less than a testosterone laiden shoulder fired howitzer ultra mag type rifle usually sets off a firestorm but I use it extensively in 7mm, 30 cal and 8mm rifles- great powders with cast bullets. I also use Unique and Red Dot with the Karibiner.

Am I to understand that using 4895 or 748 (powers I have on hand) that I can use jacketed data? If so, then I have it made!

The load using 17gr of 2400 was about what I had figured. I also have been told to start with 16gr so I'll probably split the difference and use 16.5

'Nuther question: Any need to use a filler with Red Dot or 2400? Since I have just bought a new can of red Dot, what is a startign load with that powder.

Slowly, but surely, I'm getting this rifle ready for the range. Thanks guys,

Rick

Cast Bullet Basics For Military Surplus Rifles
By C.E. Harris

Cast bullet loads usually give a more useful zero at practical field ranges with military battle sights than do full power loads. Nothing is more frustrating than a military rifle that shoots a foot high at a hundred yards with surplus ammo when the sight is as low as it will go!

Do NOT use inert fillers (Dacron or kapok) to take up the excess empty space in the case. This was once common practice, but it raises chamber pressure and under certain conditions contributes to chamber ringing. If a particular load will not work well
without a filler, the powder is not suitable for those conditions of loading.

Four load classifications from Mattern (1932) cover all uses for the cast bullet military rifle. I worked up equivalent charges to obtain the desired velocity ranges with modern powders, which provide a sound basis for loading cast bullets in any post-1898 military rifle from 7 mm to 8 mm:

1. 125-gr., plain based "small game/gallery" 900-1000 f.p.s., 5 grains of Bulls eye or equivalent.

2. 150-gr. plain based "100-yd. target/small game", 1050-1250 f.p.s., 7 grs. of Bulls eye or equivalent.

3. 150-180-gr. gas checked "200-yard target" 1500-1600 f.p.s., 16 grs. of #2400 or equivalent.

4. 180-200-gr. gas checked "deer/600-yard target" 1750-1850 f.p.s., 26 grs. of RL-7 or equivalent.

None of these loads are maximum when used in full-sized rifle cases such as the .30-40 Krag, .303 British, 7.65 Argentine, 7.7 Jap, 7.62x54R or .30-'06. They can be used as basic load data in most modern military rifles of 7 mm or larger, with a standard-
weight cast bullet for the caliber, such as 140-170 grains in the 7x57, 150-180 grains in the .30 calibers, and 150-190 grains in the 8 mm. For bores smaller than 7 mm, consult published data.

The "Small Game or Gallery" Load

The 110-115-gr. bullets intended for the .30 carbine and .32-20 Winchester, such as the Lyman #311008, #311359 or #311316 are not as accurate as heavier ones like the #311291. There isn't a readily-available .30 cal. cast small game bullet of the proper
125-130-gr. weight. LBT makes a 130-gr. flat-nosed, GC bullet for the .32 H&R Magnum which is ideal for this purpose. I recommend it highly, particularly if you own a .32 revolver!

The "100-Yard Target and Small Game" Load

I use Mattern's plain based "100-yard target load" to use up my minor visual defect culls for offhand and rapid-fire 100-yard practice. I substitute my usual gas checked bullets, but without the gas check. I started doing this in 1963 with the Lyman #311291. Today I use the Lee .312-155-2R, or the similar tumble- lubed design TL.312-160-2R. Most of my rifle shooting is done with these two basic designs.

Bullets I intend for plain based loads are blunted using a flat nosed top punch in my lubricator, providing a 1/8" flat which makes them more effective on small game and clearly distinguishes them from my heavier gas checked loads. This makes more sense to me than casting different bullets. Bullet preparation is easy. I visually inspect each run of bullets and throw those with gross defects into the scrap box for re-melting. Bullets with minor visual defects are tumble-lubed in Lee Liquid Alox without sizing, and are used for plain-based plinkers. Bullets that are visually perfect are sorted into groups of +/- 0.5 grain & used for 200 yard matches. Gas checks are pressed onto their bases by hand prior running into the lubricator-sizer.

For "gas checked bullets loaded without the gas check," for cases like the .303 British, 7.62 NATO, 7.62x54R Russian and .30-'06, I use 6-7 grains of almost any fast burning pistol powder, including, but not limited to Bulls eye, W-W231, SR-7625, Green Dot, Red Dot, or 700-X. I have also had fine results with 8 to 9 grains of medium burning rate pistol or shotgun powders, such as Unique, PB, Herco, or SR-4756 in any case of .303 British size or larger.

In the 7.62x39 case use no more than 4 grains of the fast-burning powders mentioned, or 5 grains of the shotgun powders. These make accurate 50-yd. small game loads which let you operate the action manually and save your precious cases. These plinkers are more accurate than you can hold.

Repeated reloading of rimless cases with very mild loads results in the primer blast shoving the shoulder back, unless flash holes are enlarged with a No.39 drill to 0.099" diameter. Cases that are so modified must NEVER be used with full-power loads! ALWAYS identify cases that are so modified by filing a deep groove across the rim with a file and label them clearly to prevent their inadvertent use. For this reason I prefer to do my plain based practice shooting in rimmed cases like the .30-30, .30-40 rag, .303 British and 7.62x54R which maintain positive headspace on the rim and are not subject to this limitation.

The Harris "Subsonic Target" Compromise

Mattern liked a velocity of around 1250 f.p.s. for his "100-yard target" load, because this was common with the lead-bullet .32-40 target rifles of his era. I have found grouping is best with non-gas check bullets in military rifles at lower velocities
approaching match-grade .22 Long Rifle ammunition. I use my "Subsonic Target" load at around 1050-1100 f.p.s. to replace both Mattern's "small game" and "100-yard target" loads, though I have lumped it with the latter since it really serves the same purpose. Its report is only a modest pop, rather than a crack.

If elongated bullet holes and enlarged groups indicate marginal bullet stability, increase the charge a half-grain and try again. If necessary increasing the charge no more than a full grain from the minimum recommended, if needed to get consistent accuracy.
If this doesn't work, try a bullet that is more blunt and short for its weight, because it will be more easily stabilized. If this doesn't do the trick, you must change to a gas checked bullet and a heavier load.

The Workhorse Load - Mattern's "200-Yard Target"

My favorite load is the most accurate, Mattern's so-called "200- yard target load". I expect 10-shot groups at 200 yards, firing prone rapid with sling to average 4-5". I shoot high- Sharpshooter/low-Expert scores across the course with an issue 03A3 or M1917, shooting in a cloth coat, using my cast bullet loads. The power of this load approximates the .32-40, inadequate for deer by today's standards.

Mattern's "200-yard target load" is easy to assemble. Because it is a mild load, soft scrap alloys usually give better accuracy than harder ones such as linotype. Local military collector- shooters have standardized on 16 grains of #2400 as the "universal" prescription. It gives around 1500 f.p.s. with a 150-180-gr. cast bullet in almost any military caliber. We use 16 grains of #2400 as our reference standard, just as highpower competitors use 168 Sierra Match Kings and 4895.

The only common military rifle cartridge in which 16 grains of #2400 provides a maximum load which must not be exceeded is in the tiny 7.62x39 case. Most SKS rifles will function reliably with charges of #2400 as light as 14 grains with the Lee .312-
155-2R at around 1500 f.p.s. I designed this bullet especially for the 7.62x39, but it works very well as a light bullet in any .30 or .303 cal. rifle.

Sixteen Grains of #2400 Is The Universal Load

The same 16 grain charge of #2400 is universal for all calibers as a starting load. It is mild and accurate in any larger military case from a .30-40 Krag or .303 British up through a .30-'06 or 7.9x57, with standard-weight bullets of suitable diameter for the caliber. This is my recommendation for anybody trying cast bullet loads for the first time in a military rifle without prior load development. I say this because #2400 is not position sensitive, requires no fiber fillers to ensure uniform ignition, and actually groups better when you just stripper-clip load the rifle and bang them off, rather than
tipping the muzzle up to position the charge.

Similar ballistics can be obtained with other powders in any case from 7.62x39 to .30-'06 size. If you don't have Hercules #2400 you can freely substitute 17 grains of IMR or H4227, 18 grs. of 4198, 21 grs. of Reloader 7, 24 grs. of IMR3031, or 25.5 grs. of 4895 for comparable results. However, these other powders may give some vertical stringing in cases larger than the 7.62x39 unless the charge is positioned against the primer by tipping the muzzle up before firing. Hercules #2400 does not require this precaution. Don't ask me why. Hercules #2400 usually gives tight clusters only within a narrow range of charge weights within a grain or so, and the "universal" 16 grain load is almost
always best. Believe me, we have spent a lot of time trying to improve on this, and you can take our word for it.

The beauty of the "200-yard target load" at about 1500 f.p.s. is that it can be assembled with bullets cast from the cheapest inexpensive scrap alloy, and fired all day without having to clean the bore. It ALWAYS works. Leading is never a problem.
Once a uniform bore condition is established, the rifle behaves like a .22 match rifle, perhaps needing a warming shot or two if it has cooled, but otherwise being remarkably consistent. The only thing I do after a day's shoot is to swab the bore with a
couple of wet patches of GI bore cleaner or Hoppe's, and let it soak until the next match. I then follow with three dry patches prior to firing. It only takes about three foulers to get the 03A3 to settle into tight little clusters again.

"Deer and Long Range Target" Load

Mattern's "deer and 600 yard target load" can be assembled in cases of .30-40 Krag capacity or larger up to the .30-'06 using 18-21 grs. of #2400 or 4227, 22-25 grs. of 4198, 25-28 grs. of RL-7 or 27-30 grs. of 4895, which give from 1700-1800 f.p.s., depending on the case size. These charges must not be used in cases smaller than the .303 British without cross checking against published data! The minimum charge should always be used initially, and the charge adjusted within the specified range
only as necessary to get best grouping. Popular folklore suggests a rifle barrel must be near perfect for good results with cast bullets, but this is mostly bunk, though you may have to be persistent.

I have a rusty-bored Finnish M28/30 which I have shot extensively, in making direct comparisons with the same batches of loads on the same day with a mint M28 and there was no difference. The secret in getting a worn bore to shoot acceptably is remove all prior fouling and corrosion. Then you must continue to clean the bore "thoroughly and often" until it maintains a consistent bore condition over the long term. You must also keep cast bullet loads under 1800 f.p.s. for hunting, and under 1600 for target work.

A cleaned and restored bore will usually give good accuracy with cast bullet loads if the bullet fits the chamber THROAT properly, is well lubricated and the velocities are kept below 1800 f.p.s. The distinction between throat diameter and groove diameter in
determining proper bullet size is important. If you are unable to determine throat diameter from a chamber cast, a rule of thumb is to size bullets .002" over groove diameter, such as .310" for a .30-'06, .312" for a 7.62x54R and .314" for a .303 British.

"Oversized .30s" like the .303 British, 7.7 Jap, 7.65 Argentine, 7.62x39 Russian and frequently give poor accuracy with .30 cal. cast bullets designed for U.S. barrels having .300 bore and .308 groove dimensions, because the part of the bullet ahead of the
driving bands receives no guidance from the lands in barrels of larger bore diameter. The quick rule of thumb to checking proper fit of the forepart is to insert the bullet nose first into the muzzle. If it enters to clear up to the front driving band without being noticeably engraved, accuracy will seldom be satisfactory.

The forepart is not too large if loaded rounds can be chambered with only slight resistance, the bullet does not telescope back into the case, or to stick in the throat when extracted without firing. A properly fitting cast bullet should engrave the forepart positively with the lands, and be no more than .001" under chamber throat diameter on the driving bands. Cast bullets with a tapered forepart at least .002" over bore diameter give the best results.

Many pre-WWII Russian rifles of US make, and later Finnish reworks, particularly those with Swiss barrels by the firm SIG, have very snug chamber necks and cannot be used with bullets over .311" diameter unless case necks are reamed or outside turned to
.011" wall thickness to provide safe clearance. Bullets with a large forepart like the Lee .312-155-2R or Lyman #314299 work best in the 7.62x54R, because the forcing cones are large and gradual. Standard .30 cal. Gas checks are correct. Finnish 7.62x54R, Russian 7.62x39 and 7.65 Argentine barrels are smaller than Russian 7.62x54R, Chinese 7.62x39, Jap 7.7 or .303 British barrels, and usually have standard .300" bore diameter, (Finnish barrels occasionally are as small as .298") and groove diameters
of .310-.3115".

In getting the best grouping with iron sighted military rifles, eyesight is the limiting factor. Anybody over age 40 who shoots iron sights should to equip himself with a "Farr-Sight" from Gil Hebbard or Brownell's. This adjustable aperture for your eyeglass frame was intended for indoor pistol shooters, but it helps my iron sight rifle shooting, and adds about 5 points to my score!

So now you have enough fundamentals to get started. If you want to have fun give that old military rifle try. You'll never know the fun you've been missing until you try it!

Here is info on using Red Dot in light loads, from Ed Harris



"The Load" is 13 Grains of Red Dot"



By C.E. Harris, Revised 2-16-94

My success in economizing by using up leftover shotshell powder has changed my
approach to handloading. I had a caddy of Red Dot, and no longer reloaded
shotshells, so asked myself, "what can I do with it?" My shooting is now
mostly high-power rifle. I needed several hundred rounds a week to practice
offhand, reloading, and working the bolt in sitting and prone rapid, but didn't
want to burn out my barrel or my wallet. Powder used to be cheap, but today is
$20/lb. (or more), so cost is a factor in component choice.

I used to ignore pistol or shotgun powders in reduced rifle loads for the usual
reasons: the risk of accidental double-charges, fears of erratic ignition, and
concerns with maintaining accuracy, and reduced utility with a low-power load.
Still, the caddy of Red Dot kept "looking at me" from the corner. Would it
work? Looking at data in the RCBS Cast Bullet Manual No. 1 and the Lyman Cast
Bullet Handbook suggested it would, so I tried it, much to my delight! Red Dot
is bulky, compared to the usual rifle powders used in .30-'06-size cases. It
occupies more powder space in typical charges than common "reduced load" rifle
powders, such as #2400, IMR4227, IMR4198 or RL-7. The lower bulk density of Red
Dot adequately addresses my safety concerns because it makes an accidental
double charge far less likely.

After considerable experimentation, my friends and I found "The Load" IS 13
grains of Hercules Red Dot, in any FULL SIZED rifle case of .30 cal. or larger.
"The Load" has distinct advantages over more expensive alternatives, within
certain limitations, which are:

1. The case must be LARGER than the .300 Savage or .35 Remington.

2. The rifle must be of MODERN (post 1898) design, suitable for smokeless
powder, with a bore size of .30 cal. or larger.

3. The bullet weight must be within the NORMAL range for the given cartridge.

4. Inert fillers such as Dacron, kapok or are NOT RECOMMENDED! (Nor are they
necessary).

Within these restrictions I have now engraved in stone, "The Load" works! The
bullet may be either jacketed or cast. Gaschecked cast bullets required in the
.30 cals., otherwise you will get leading, but plainbased ones work fine in the
8mm Mauser or larger.

"The Load" has shown complete success in the .30-40 Krag, .303 British, 7.65
Argentine, .308 Win., 7.62x54R Russian, .30-'06, 8x57 and .45-70
(strong-actioned rifles such as the 1886 Winchester or 1895 Marlin -- 12 grs.
is maximum for 400 gr. bullets in the Trapdoor Springfield -- Ed.) Though I
have not tried it, I have no doubt that "The Load" would work well in other
cartridges fitting these parameters, such as the .35 Whelen, .358 Winchester,
.375 H&H or .444 Marlin, based on RCBS and Lyman published data.

"The Load" fills 50% or more of a .308 Win or .30-'06 case. The risk of an
accidental double charge is greatly reduced, because the blunder is immediately
obvious if you visually check, powder fill on EVERY CASE, as you should
whenever handloading! A bulky powder measures more uniformly, because normal
variation in the measured volume represents a smaller percentage of the charge
weight.

Red Dot's granulation is somewhat less coarse than other flake powders of
similar burning rate, such as 700-X, which aids metering. Its porous, uncoated
flakes are easily ignited with standard primers. So-called "magnum" primers do
no harm in cases larger than the .30-'06, but are neither necessary nor
recommended in smaller ones. I DO NOT recommend pistol primers in reduced rifle
loads, because weak primers may cause erratic ignition, and their thinner cups
can perforate more easily, causing gas leakage and risk of personal injury!

The velocities obtained with 13 grs. of Red Dot appear mild, but "The Load" is
no pipsqueak! In a case like the .308 or .30-'06, you get (from a 24" sporter
barrel) about 1450 f.p.s. with a 200- gr. cast bullet, 1500 with a 170-gr., or
1600 with a 150-gr. cast load. "The Load" is fully comparable to "yesterday's
deer rifle", the .32-40, and provides good expansion of cheap, soft alloys
(10-13 BHN) at woods ranges. Jacketed bullet velocities with "The Load" are
about 120-150 f.p.s. less than a lubricated lead bullet of the same weight.



Longer-barreled military rifles pick up a few feet per second, but "The Load"
starts to slow down in barrels over 28", such as the M91 Moisin-Nagant and long
Krags or 98a Mausers.

My preferred alloy in the .30 cals. is a mixture of 3-5 lbs. of .22 backstop
scrap to 1 lb. of salvaged linotype. Wheelweights also work well, as do soft
"Scheutzen" alloys such as 1:25 tin/lead. in bores of 8 mm or larger. "The
Load" drives soft- cast .30-cal. to 8 mm bullets fast enough to get expansion,
but without fragmenting. These out-penetrate factory .30-30 softpoints, and
kill medium game up to 150 lbs. well at short ranges up to 100 yards, when
placed accurately. In medium and large bores like the .375 H&H or .45-70, "The
Load" gives typical black powder ballistics for the bore. A 255-265 gr. cast
bullet in the .375 H&H approximates the .38-55 at 1330 f.p.s. Soft 300- 405-gr.
cast bullets are pushed at 1300-1350 f.p.s. from a 22" barrel .45-70, sporter
are very effective on deer at woods ranges. Cast bullets over .35 cal. do not
have to expand appreciably to work well on game if blunt and heavy for their
caliber.

The Load" works well with jacketed bullets, giving somewhat lower velocities
than with cast lead, due to less effective obturation and greater friction in
the bore. The 85-gr. or 100-gr. Hornady or 90-gr. Sierra JHP for the .32 H&R
Mag. revolver, or the Remington 100-gr. .32-20 softpoint bullet become mild,
but destructive varmint loads at 1600 f.p.s. from a .308 or '06.

If you substitute a stiffly jacketed 110-gr. .30 Carbine softpoint bullet,
designed for higher velocities than imparted by "The Load", you have a
non-destructive "coup de gras", small game or wild turkey load which shoots
close to your deer rifle's normal zero, but at 25 yards! A more accurate and
effective small game or varmint load uses a flat-nosed 150-gr. pr 170-gr.
.30-30 bullet instead. These don't expand at the 1400-1450 f.p.s. obtained
with "The Load", but their larger frontal area improves killing power compared
to roundnoses or spitzers.

I have use pulled GI .30 caliber Ball, and Match bullets with "The Load" for
cheap 200-yd. NMC boltgun practice. Accuracy is equal to arsenal loads, but I
use my 600-yard sight dope at 200 yards. I expect 5-6" ten-shot, iron-sight
groups at 200 yards using M2 or M80 pulled bullets and about 3-4" for the M72
or M118 Match bullets. I use these mostly in bolt-action rifles, but they can
be single-loaded for offhand or slow-fire practice ion the Garand as well.
These .30 cal. pulls shoot fine in the .303 British or 7.62x54 Russian, despite
their being a bit small, because the fast-burning Red Dot upsets them into the
deeper grooves. The 173-gr. Match .30 cal. boattail bullets may not shoot as
well at these low velocities as lighter flat bases in the 12" twist .308 Win.
barrels, but they do quite well in ten- inch twist barrels such as in the '06,
7.62 Russian, .303 British and 7.65 Argentine.

The longer bore time of these 1400 f.p.s. (typical 170-180-gr. jacketed load
velocity) practice loads makes errors in follow- through apparent, a great
practice and training aid. The light recoil and lower report of these loads
helps transition Junior tyro shooters from the .22 rimfire to the service rifle
without being intimidated by the noise and recoil.

Zeroing is no problem in the M1 or M14, because "The Load" shoots into the
ten-ring of the reduced SR target at 200 yards from your M1 or M14 rifle at
using your normal 600 yard sight dope! The somewhat greater wind deflection
blows you into the "8" ring at 200 yards with the same conditions you would
expect to do so at 600 yards with M118 Match ammunition. This provides your
Junior shooters some useful wind-doping practice.

The economy of a lighter charge is obvious. A full power .30-'06 load using 50
grs. of an IMR powder like 4064 costs 10 cents a pop, just for powder, at 140
rounds per pound (if you are lucky enough to find new powder for $14/lb.).
Substituting 13 grs. of Red Dot gets 538 rounds per pound at a cost of 2.6
cents which is a savings of over $7 per hundred rounds in powder alone! Greater
savings are possible if you get the best price and buy powder by the caddy.

Velocity and point of impact of "The Load" is not noticeably affected by
varying powder position in the case. I shoot them either slow fire, or clip-fed
and flipped through rapid-fire in the boltgun with equal accuracy. Red Dot is
very clean burning and is economical both on the basis of its lower charge
weight, and its lower basic cost per pound compared to other "rifle" powders.

Best of all, using a shotshell powder I already have reduces the kinds of
powder I keep and eliminates the need for a special "reduced load" powder. This
approach is ideal for rifle shooters who are also shotgunners, since almost
everybody who reloads for 12-ga. probably has a keg of Red Dot already!

I now realize it is foolish to use heavier charges of more expensive powder for
routine practice, varmint or small game loads in my center-fire rifles. I
seldom shoot at over 200 yards, and don't enjoy wearing out expensive target
barrels unnecessarily. Since I already have good sight dope and need to work
more on technique and save my remaining barrel accuracy life for matches.

I am glad I found the way to get alot more shooting for the dollar. Economical
powder choice IS possible, and my reloading has become less complicated and
more enjoyable simple since I realized I could do most of my rifle shooting
with 13 grains of Red Dot!

In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed

Boy I tell you what, this is exactly why I say that fellow shooter are the best folks in the world! There is a wealth of information contained in this thread and I'm taking it all in! Notes are being made and my printer is busy

I can't wait to get started loading this puppy. I'm retired but work part time to support my shooting & reloading habit hobby and I hope to be able to get all the other necessary supplies I need within the next week or so. I have a pound of Red Dot and a half pound of 2400 ready to go as well as about 100 pieces of Winchester brass. I'll be using Federal & Winchester standard LR primers for my loads.

One other thing I've been wondering about. Is the Lyman 8MM M-Die the one I need to expand the case necks & mouth? Just wondering out loud due to the oversize boolit that this mold produces.

Thanks again for all your replies.

Rick

I use the Lee unit sometimes but also use a tapered punch or needlenose pliers turning it around the inside of the case mouth. The M die, if you have it, is perfect.


I expect you're using gas checks.

quote:

Originally posted by nelsonted1:
I use the Lee unit sometimes but also use a tapered punch or needlenose pliers turning it around the inside of the case mouth. The M die, if you have it, is perfect.


I expect you're using gas checks.

Gas checks and an M-Die are on my list of things to order. I usually mess things up when I use something like a screwdriver or longnose pliers on pieces of brass

Rick

A needle nose pliers has a taper to it, use the taper to open the mouth slightly. Push the pliers in the case mouth, with the jaws shut, and the rotate the pliers. They'll open the mouth enough to start the bullet.

On the gas checks. You could buy an RCBS or Lyman sizer/lubricator, they run over $100 at Midway or Midsouth Shooters Supply. I'd suggest a Lee Lube and sizing kit for $11.64. It'll put on your checks and size the bullets for you. You may not need sizing but you'll most likely need gas checks. Get Hornady crimp on gas checks.

In the Lee kit you'll also get Liquid Alox, a good bullet lube. I squirt some in a ziplock bag, throw in a handfull of bullets and roll them back and forth, then I either forget and leave them in the bag or drop them on some tinfoil to dry.

Here's a link to Midsouth's Lee kit

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=006-...search=yes&submit=GO

It wouldn't hurt to consider buying the Lyman cast bullet handbook, it is like a bible for casters. The Lee Modern Reloading Manual is just as good.

Also, do you have a scope on your rifle, if not can you see the sights ok? There's a company named MOJO SIGHTS that makes a peepsite that replaces the rear military sight with no changes to the rifle. I can't say enough good things about them.

Keep asking questions.

TED

Well the idea of the Needlenose (in my line of work we called them longnose) pliers works! Works pretty dang good too. I had tried to 'fix' case mouths before and had screwed some up.

I have an old Lyman 450 sizer and have just gotten (due to the generosity of a board member!) a .325 sizing die.

I hope to order my gas checks, etc on Monday. I have a set of (other caliber) dies to order and a bunch of jacketed bullets,etc, so I had to wait until the funds became available. Quite frankly Midsouth got this mold to me much,much quicker than I thought they would. My order must have put them over the top or something for I got the mold about 2 weeks after ordering it.

This rifle is still in the military stock with the lousy trigger, etc, but it is scoped. Someone had D&T'd it before I bought the thing and I'm glad he did. I simply cannot use the terrible Mauser sights as my eyes are not young anymore If things work out with the lead bullets, I'll bed the stock & replace the trigger.

Thanks to all for the replies,

Rick