I have some blocks of pure lead that are roughly 4" X 4" X 14". I'm wondering for there are any suggestions on how to get them into bite size pieces that will fit into my lee production pot?

I used to use a hydraulic log splitter to chop them up, it was still a bit of a hassle (it wasn't like slicing up a block of cheese or anything) but it worked OK. I don't have a splitter any more. I've used an oxy-acetylene torch also, cut little channels over the pot which heats it up quicker and have also tried a sawzall which I found to be impractical.

I'd prefer to not melt it all down into a pot and pour ingots, but if there is no better way that might be the best option but are there any other helpful suggestions or techniques to try?

find a friend with a big pot to melt and clean and pore into ingots. if you where closer you could use my setup. Clint

Thanks Clint, I have the equipment here to do that also.

The lead is stamped from the foundry, so it really does not need to be cleaned or anything. I have pots and ingot molds here but it just seems like that is an extra step and if there is an easy way to get around the issue I'd like to learn it, and it's always good to learn something new anyway.

I might try using an axe and a sledgehammer and a block of wood later. Oh, and a son as well though I expect there will be some grumbling involved.

I cut lead and alloy bars on my table saw. Observe ALL safety precautions especially wearing a face shield or at least safety goggles. I use a carbide tipped blade that I wax with either paraffin or beeswax.

J,

I tried to do that too but it puts tiny bits of lead everywhere.

I have a Craftman contractor model and it puts all the chips directly underneath the saw. Did you have the blade guard on?

What's that?

Mark I use to stay that until I cut my left thumb pretty bad. Their are some applications that you use that guard. Just be careful around those things my friend!

I have an older model table saw and it does not lend itself to retrofitting a blade guard to. I keep telling myself that sometime I'll get a decent saw that has a decent guard and nice fence as well that I don't need to use a square on whenever I need to cut something.

If it is pure lead, just use a hack saw.

A wide cold chisel or brick chisel and a 2-lb hand sledge works, or a little spray oil and a COARSE Sawzall blade will work too.

I had some similar lead alloy plates about that size with notches in the ends that I bullet-ized a few years ago, they were about like wheel weight alloy. I finally determined they must have been stackable theatre curtain counterweights, although the only ones I've actually seen in use were cast iron.

Gear

Find a old time plumber that still has his propane pot and a dipper.Most had them when they to pour joints for the old cast iron pipe.

On pure lead I use a wide masonry chisel and a big hammer. It's noisy but no lead is lost and there's no mess.

splitting maul and two wedges. My brother and I did a 400lb counterweight off of a used forklift his work scrapped out. Got split and melted down and cast into ingots in about three hours this morning. 126(?) nice 3lb ingots, and he bought the fried chicken at Popeyes.

Rich

400lb was a good score Rich. The spliting wedges or the brick chisel as Gear mentioned would be what I would use as well and what I did use last time out but now I have a 5 ton log splitter so am all set for another "find".

Use a propane torch and melt it off into a large ladle.

The propane torch method doesn't work that well. Acetylene works better as you can do a better job cutting grooves but unless you are wanting to melt it for casting it is a somewhat largish waste of propane. I have a large cast iron babbit pot that can hold a couple hundred pounds of lead and I've used that before to do a grand melting using firewood, it just takes a while but no need to watch it, just make a fire under it and keep checking it.

Anyway, I used a modified version of what Rich and Leo suggest, which is I took a splitting maul and had a son hold the handle while I whanged away at it with a sledge hammer. It works pretty good on these large blocks I have, just remember to use eye and ear protection!

quote:

Originally posted by SmokinJ:
I cut lead and alloy bars on my table saw. Observe ALL safety precautions especially wearing a face shield or at least safety goggles. I use a carbide tipped blade that I wax with either paraffin or beeswax.

Exactly what I have done

How about a vise and a jigsaw or sazall?

None of this is anything I would suggest anyone do of course, all the required disclaimers and of course the legal mumbo jumbo!

Use something to stabilize and hold the ingot in place while doing any work on it.

Sawzall (very coarse blade or it will blind quickly)

OR

Revers the blade in a circular saw (plywood blade is good) and cut slowly (All personal protective equipment in use of course).

Some say to lubricate with kerosene (never tried that)

TAKE YOUR TIME

SAFETY FIRST

Lead can be "grabby" with power tools.

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
I might try using an axe and a sledgehammer and a block of wood later. Oh, and a son as well though I expect there will be some grumbling involved.

I have done this not to bad to do.

I also just traded my large lead blocks for wheel weights after I got tired of wacking chunks off

course blade on a porta-band saw, use stick wax to lubricate the teeth

not to hijack, but I found a source for foundry pure lead with 3% antimony for a buck a pound.

Y'all know where my spare cash is going one week a month...

quote:

Originally posted by psj12:
Use a propane torch and melt it off into a large ladle.

Welders torch. Start melting off the end into ingot molds. b orrow your wifes cast iron cornbread mold. PS: Don't ever use it for cornbread again!