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Hi All! (The piks are in the "Cast .308 shooter ?" thread.) This was an afternoon project over 10 years ago. I was amazed how well it worked in spite of my inexperience , materials and equipment. A better model would cut and form the cup in one step. This should not be difficult. picture 1 At 9 oclock is the punch to spread Hornady gas checks. Turn a piece of rod in a lathe (or drill) and attack it with a file. Use an angle that will fit in an unopened check but still spread it enough when seated by a hammer. At 11 is the disc cutter. That is a small block Chevy headbolt with the threads cut off. A drill press was used to bore a hole in the chunk of metal. A hacksaw cut the slot for the alum. to fit in. Cut the slot deep enough to have 'waste' on the backside of the 'hole'. The bottom is counterbored with a larger drill almost up to the cutting edge. This lets the checks fall free out of the bottom. The bolt has a 'cup' on the cutting surface. The outside radius touches first. This also makes it easier to sharpen. A hammer can be used but I normally use a valve spring and washer to hold the bolt 'up'. The entire assembly is set in a Drake lever opperated press. This way I can punch out a row of discs in about 1 or 1.5 each per second. Then I have to trim the edge with shears to get rid of the waste to go again. A better setup would trim the waste AS it punches the disc. The next thing to the right is the disc holder/former. It fits in the press where the shellholder fits. It is cut deep enough that a sliding bushing on the form stem can "center' the form stem in the bushing holder. the 3 items to the right of that are 1) a hornady collet turned on a lathe so that when compressed it will only pinch a gascheck 'so' tight. 2) a machined base that fits in the shellholder and pushes the collet into the collet die..3) and a hornady collet die with a normal collet inside. The bottom of the die has been rewelded (brazed) because I pushed the bottom out. It wasn't made for the pressure I put on it. IDEA..I wonder if the Lee neck sizing collet could be made to work. It is a much stronger looking die. Lower are 3 bullets with checks. The black check is just ink still on the alum sheet. You can also see writing on the inside of the formed cup. The bullet with black on it is majic marker to reduce glare. "In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. But, in practice, there is." Jan L. A. de Snepscheut | ||
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picture 2 Closeup of 4 bullets on top of press. You can see how the die screws in from the bottom. Try to make everything the correct lenght so that the die can be adjusted 'up' where it does not pinch the collet at the top of the ram stroke. You can then adjust the die down to get just the pressure you want on it. The Hornady check hasn't been pinched yet.. "In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. But, in practice, there is." Jan L. A. de Snepscheut | |||
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Where's the pics? | |||
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You coulda told us where to find them. It is a good citizen's duty to love the country and hate the gubmint. | |||
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picture 3 this shows a check just as it is being 'pinched'. I usually pinch it several times and rotate it a few degrees each time. The checks fit good this way and the bullet is never softened by a sizer. I do run the bullet thru an oversize die to grease. But never to size. picture 4 4 bullets on top of my Rock Chucker picture 5 Same but base view picture 6 This is the setup that changes the discs into cups. There is a disc in the bottom form die. The form die tapers to the outside size of the finished check.. the upper piece is an old die with an alum. insert in it. This insert is shaped exactly like the base of my 311332 bullets.There is a sliding bushing on the insert. This fits the insert well AND fits inside the base where the disc goes. This aligns the inside form insert with the base/ disc. There was some error when I turned these. But simce I can rotate them, I can 'adjust' so the inside form insert will touch the disc in the center. ( The top insert has some 'give' or play so it can be moved by the bushing.) If the gascheck 'sticks to the upper insert, I take it off with my hands. If it sticks in the lower, the primerseater can be used to push it up & out of the lower die. I really need to make a flat base to go where the primer cup is. I understand alcohol can be used as a lube on alum. But I don't know for sure. picture 7 This shows the bushing held up by a high tech. rubber band. When the lower and upper dies come close together, I pull the bushing down and 'mate' the pieces in alignment before forming the check. Sounds hard but is very simple. picture 8 This shows the 3 pieces of the check pincher. The far right piece fits in the press like a shellholder. Above is the bottom of the disc cutter and 'bolt'. To the right is a 'short' bottom form die. It works better sometimes. The rest of the pictures should be ok without words...feel free to ask if you have questions.... I have such a large supply of H checks and so rarely use any at all---- I don't use this much anymore. I would like to build one that would do several calibers..... .30, .38. .45 etc. and do all the steps in one lever pull.... "In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. But, in practice, there is." Jan L. A. de Snepscheut | |||
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