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ya remove antimony and tin from wheel weights? got about a c of wheelweights. I'm asking my mold to drop 380/54cal. A lota bad throws, 360-370. This from other lead I thought was dead soft. I shot the 10%, that were acceptable with good effect. This is a LEE 54/380 R.E.A.L. Now before you guys jump me for using ALUMINIUM, i've had great results with .358 and .430 molds from lee. Anyway, I've never tried to cast a bullet of this size. Hope you guys can help me with this. TIA Jeff
 
Posts: 39 | Location: S.E. MI. | Registered: 07 September 2002Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by 54JEFF:
ya remove antimony and tin from wheel weights? got about a c of wheelweights. I'm asking my mold to drop 380/54cal. A lota bad throws, 360-370. This from other lead I thought was dead soft. I shot the 10%, that were acceptable with good effect. This is a LEE 54/380 R.E.A.L. Now before you guys jump me for using ALUMINIUM, i've had great results with .358 and .430 molds from lee. Anyway, I've never tried to cast a bullet of this size. Hope you guys can help me with this. TIA Jeff

Alot of us like Lee molds too- no problem about here.

Your casting wt variation isn't the alloy just a lack of alloy/mold temp. You might have to use a ladle or find a way to fill that large mold much faster.

Don't think removing the sb and sn is worth the effort. Only way I'd know of removing such is a long heating session to burn those elements out.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks aladin for your reply. It seems that dead soft lead is recomended for these bullets. Do you think that a HOT pot and mold would increase the weight? Also, would extended heating alow me to skim of the hard factor?? Thanks agin, Jeff
 
Posts: 39 | Location: S.E. MI. | Registered: 07 September 2002Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by 54JEFF:
Thanks aladin for your reply. It seems that dead soft lead is recomended for these bullets. Do you think that a HOT pot and mold would increase the weight? Also, would extended heating alow me to skim of the hard factor?? Thanks agin, Jeff

Yes the wt should increase but more importantly uniformity should be good also.

Understand I don't know how long it'd take to burn out those elements. Might be easier to find some alloy of pure lead or close-- save this for the future. You could... cast those slugs and put them straight into a food freezer. Minimizes age hardening. Those ww alloy slugs might be 8-9+ as cast but age harden to 12+ over two weeks or so.

Or- take the slugs you already have an anneal them. Put them in the oven at 425 [be sure they don't melt-- oven guages often are off] for one hr. Turn the oven off and let them cool to room temp IN that oven. Then store them in the freezer. I think a soft ww alloy slug might load easier than a aged one.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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I've heard the tape on style of wheelweights are nearly pure lead. It seems like out of a 5 gallon bucket, I end up with a few pounds of the stick on weights.

I agree with Aladin, nothing wrong with Lee aluminum molds, I have many more lee than anything else, and have little bad to say about them, and lots of good. For $16 for a two cavity, and bullets that have always been accurate in my guns, what is there to complain about? Every mold has it's ideosyncracies, and if you are willing to learn how to make good bullets with a lee, then they will reward you well. Heck, I sold a $100 LBT mold because I could make bullets just as good from a $16 lee.
 
Posts: 7205 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Jeff - Most people try to put these ingredients INTO their lead, not take them out! [Eek!]

But if you just think you gotta have pure lead, the easiest way to get it is check with some plumbing companies or tile setters...guys who do tile showers, etc.

I used to live next door to a tile setter and he was always giving me the lead pan out of old showers he replaced. The lead was pure and soft as bubble gum.

For pouring larger bullets, get your lead a bit hotter and use a ladel. The bad news is your mould will get too hot to cast good bullets pretty fast, so it's kindof a slow go on big bullets.

Good luck - P45
 
Posts: 19677 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I cast my handgun bullets out of pure wheelweight. I have found that if I flux well, the bullet is usually still soft enough to deform/obturate readily. I've never had a leading problem with them.

You might want to get a casting pot, with a bottom pour spout. Remember that you must get it hot enough, especially a Lee mold. I use a Lee 20 lb. production pot--the price is right, I can adjust the pour volume easily, and I can cast really good bullets from it.
 
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I shoulda been more clear. This bullet is a r.e.a.l. for my Hawken rifle. Its should be dead soft lead. All I have is wheel weights. About 200#s. Anyway, I also cast mag revolver bullets so I know the importance of tin and antimony. This is the GREATEST site i"ve ever been to concerning casting. Every one of your tips has helped to some degree. I dropped about 40 slugs today, and with your tips, my rejection rate has gone from 80 to 10%. Still, that was the last of my soft lead. I have to find a way to utilize the lead I have now! Thanks to all who responded to my post. Its time to replace the bandages on my hands!!
 
Posts: 39 | Location: S.E. MI. | Registered: 07 September 2002Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by 54JEFF:
I shoulda been more clear. This bullet is a r.e.a.l. for my Hawken rifle. Its should be dead soft lead. All I have is wheel weights. About 200#s. Anyway, I also cast mag revolver bullets so I know the importance of tin and antimony. This is the GREATEST site i"ve ever been to concerning casting. Every one of your tips has helped to some degree. I dropped about 40 slugs today, and with your tips, my rejection rate has gone from 80 to 10%. Still, that was the last of my soft lead. I have to find a way to utilize the lead I have now! Thanks to all who responded to my post. Its time to replace the bandages on my hands!!

That REAL otta the Hawken sounds like fun. I do think a FRESHLY cast ww bullet would engrave and shoot well. Paul's suggestion to use the wts with the stick on's should solve the problem.

Let us know how this thing shoots.. Saw a fella at the range while back shooting 45 yds with a 50 and a similar bullet-- the things were about dropping into the same hole using the real stuff. BLK of course.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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I've been tempted to get a smoke pole myself, as I got a .490" round ball mold for my 480, and a buddy gave me a 50 cal REAL mold.

I've actually run the 50 cal REAL bullets through a .477" sizer, and shot them out of the 480. If I could size them concentrically, I think they'd be a 1/2 decent bullet, but I'll have to make up a special push through sizer for that effort.

You just might want to try the REAL's out of ww's and see how they work. They aren't dead soft, but with such minimal bearing surface, they just might be ok.
 
Posts: 7205 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I loooked through some of my wheel wts yesterday and found o stick-on. I think the stick-ons are relitively new and my ww stash is quite old. Anyway, a point brought up by PaulH makes a lot of sense. Bearing surface area ain't squat! So what if my bullets are 4 or 5 pts. harder? I'm sure I'll still be able seat them. My fear was that I'd get a slug stuck in the barrel, short of the powder[black only] charge. With a little prodding from Paul I relize that ain't gonna happen. Worst case, they wont shoot as well as dead soft. Going to Houston Monday for 9 days, takin Hawken with. Talked Texas buddy into Cabelas 54 Hawken also. Same maker as my Dixie. A 2 rifle test!! This is gonna be GREAT! Thanks for all your help fellas, Jeff
 
Posts: 39 | Location: S.E. MI. | Registered: 07 September 2002Reply With Quote
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