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Re: trouble with Lee mold
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Jumptrap - I'm amazed! (Not offended by anymeans.) I never thought that you'd let a Lee mould get the best of you! (VBG)
 
Posts: 621 | Location: Virginia mountains | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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650 degrees is not hot enough!
Jumptrap, I'm surprised at you! Some of my Lee moulds make perfectly round boolits, unlike all of my Lymans, RCBS's and custom moulds. I never have any problems making boolits with them and for the price, how can anyone complain?
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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An alternative to smoking a Lee mold is to hit it with some Midway mold release. Good stuff for your iron molds too. Doesn't do miracles, but it usually makes the mold drop the bullet easier.
 
Posts: 247 | Location: Wyoming | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
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I often have to re-post this advice, some ignore it, most resent it, but trust me, I really want to help.

Take your Lee mold(s) and secure in a large vise. Then select a 3 pound hammer from your tool chest and raise above your head, directly over the clamped mould. Bring down sharply in direct contact with the mould. Put hammer away. Remove remains from vise and deposit in garbage can.

Replace offending and now defunct excuse for bullet mould with a Lyman or RCBS iron mould. Your troubles are mostly solved. Repeat as often as necesarry, or until all Lee moulds are disposed of.
 
Posts: 288 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: 23 August 2003Reply With Quote
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Sean, wrinkles are often a sign of mould contamination. Could be factory preservative, could be a trace of wax from lubing locating points, smoking with a candle, almost anything that leaves an oily residue. I boil my moulds in soapy water for about half an hour. Then smoke them, turn your temp up a bit and you should be set.
 
Posts: 1570 | Location: Base of the Blue Ridge | Registered: 04 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Quote:

I often have to re-post this advice, some ignore it, most resent it, but trust me, I really want to help.

Take your Lee mold(s) and secure in a large vise. Then select a 3 pound hammer from your tool chest and raise above your head, directly over the clamped mould. Bring down sharply in direct contact with the mould. Put hammer away. Remove remains from vise and deposit in garbage can.

Replace offending and now defunct excuse for bullet mould with a Lyman or RCBS iron mould. Your troubles are mostly solved. Repeat as often as necesarry, or until all Lee moulds are disposed of.




You Lee moulds would work if you would just read and understand the instructions before use.

Many people try to use their aluminum Lee moulds like they would their Lyman or RCBS iron moulds. That ain't going to work and will lead to frustations like yours. So read the instructions next time.
 
Posts: 88 | Registered: 22 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Sean, the single best thing I have ever done to any of my molds has been to coat them Mold Release, an aerosol product available from www.midwayusa.com This is graffite in an aromatic solvent carrier. When new, I use spray carburator cleaner to wash the mold down. White gas will work well too. Use compressed air to dry or leave to sit a bit. Apply a light coat and cast away. No need to reapply for several casting sessions. Wash away all traces of the graffite before a reapplication. I find this product and method to perform imfinitely better than smoking. Cast HOT!

Ignore Jumptrap, he obviously has difficulty confusing inexpensive molds with bad casting practices. In 30 years of casting, I have had more trouble from iron molds than any aluminum mold I have used.
 
Posts: 409 | Location: Mentone. Alabama | Registered: 05 February 2004Reply With Quote
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