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Help lead stiking to spruce cutter
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Ive recently aquired a dbl cav 358 mould of 136 grns .It throws a terrific bullet but .The lead / Lineatype will not release from the spruce cutter any ideas?? Confused


all times wasted wot's not spent shootin
 
Posts: 569 | Location: Flinders Ranges. South Australia | Registered: 26 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Apply the same prep to the sprue plate as you do the inside of the mould.

In my case, I use NEI mould prep for both the inside of the mould and the sprue plat.
 
Posts: 265 | Location: Bulverde, Texas | Registered: 08 February 2005Reply With Quote
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D-O-K, In case you don't have mold prep/release (or don't want to purchase it), you can smoke the sprue plate, both top & bottom with a candle and reapply as needed. A #2 or softer lead pencil rubbed on both sides of the sprue cutter as well as the top surface of the mold itself also helps. Lastly, is it possible that your alloy is too hot and you're not letting the sprue cool enough (contract) so that it releases?
 
Posts: 480 | Location: N.Y. | Registered: 09 January 2003Reply With Quote
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The countersink should run all the way to the bottom edge of the sprue plate, forming a knife edge. If the countersink stops short, it causes a surprising amount of difficulty.

Some alloys are more tenacious than others. Wheelweight is the easiest to cut and release. Pure lead and lead:tin alloys are quite ductile and will actually wrap around the edge of the sprue hole instead of cutting cleanly.
 
Posts: 1095 | Location: Idaho | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Wait for the lead to cool down on the sprue plate untill it solidifies, and if your mold is not to hot they will release fine.

This is covered in the Lyman Cast Reloading Manual. If you don't have one I suggest you borrow or purchase one. It will help with a lot of casting problems.

Good luck.


Swede

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Posts: 1608 | Location: Central, Kansas | Registered: 15 January 2003Reply With Quote
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All answers are correct and any of them will solve the problem. I get a small smear of lead once in a while if I cut the sprue too soon. I found by taking a wood match, strike it and blow out the fire right away, and scrub off the lead with the head of the match, takes it off with no scratching of the plate or mold. So far it is the easiest and most effective way. I keep a box of matches near the pot.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by bfrshooter:
All answers are correct and any of them will solve the problem. I get a small smear of lead once in a while if I cut the sprue too soon. I found by taking a wood match, strike it and blow out the fire right away, and scrub off the lead with the head of the match, takes it off with no scratching of the plate or mold. So far it is the easiest and most effective way. I keep a box of matches near the pot.


I use a bullet to clean off the smeared lead just push it on the smear and you can remove most of it. Be sure to not force on the inside edge of the mold it may round the edge over.


Swede

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Posts: 1608 | Location: Central, Kansas | Registered: 15 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks fellas .that should get me out of strife its the only mould thats ever given me this trouble


all times wasted wot's not spent shootin
 
Posts: 569 | Location: Flinders Ranges. South Australia | Registered: 26 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I use a pencil (it's the graphite in the pencil) that helps keep the lead from sticking. Also agree on letting the lead cool a little more (using a damp sponge works well too).


Tim K
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Chief of Smoke, Pulaski Coehorn Works & Winery
 
Posts: 621 | Location: Virginia mountains | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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