I've just learned in the past few days that some people are successfully shooting Berdan primed brass converted to use 209 shotshell primers. The procedure's supposed to be to drill the primer pocket straight through to the diameter of the cylindrical body of the 209's battery cup, and counterbore with a much larger bit just sufficiently to seat the 209's flange flush with the case head. I haven't tried it. I first learned of it from a friend who shoots 7.5mm MAS French rifles with brass made by necking up surplus 6.5mm Swedish Mauser cases. (The French didn't invent a new case for that round, they just necked up the Swede.) Said friend tells me he loads to probably the 50,000 PSI range with these (a caseful of IMR 7383 under a 147 gr. .308 FMJBT) with no problem. In a properly headspaced rifle the primer and case head are well supported by the bolt face. I'd watch carefully for signs of leakage. I might think of trying that in cases like the 7.5mm Swiss, for which Boxer-primed cases are a bit hard to come by and expensive.

Sir: I have converted the late 30's 8x56 nazi headstamped berdan cases to boxer successfully with handtools to feed my 8x50R Ferlach Stutzen sporter. Tedious procedure as follows: pull bullet and dump powder; soak the case in soapy water for 2 days to kill primers; carefully reduce the decapping pin diameter on a lee universal decapper by minor grinding; pass the die stem with pin through the case neck with the case sitting on a shellholder and punch out the berdan primer. These cases are center fire berdan of a primer diameter slightly smaller than large rifle. Grind off the center fire flash tube from the headstamp end by dremel and drill the flashhole with a flashhole drill. Ream the primer pocket with a sinclair lr pocket uniformer. I full lengthed and trimmed for 8x50R Austrian. The brass is very good. The cases last a long time. The original primers are mercuric so don't use fired cases. Automate! Keep your fingers crossed for Graf"s to come through. But you can make enough to hunt with. Good luck, ned

G. ned ludd
I have some 1938 Nazi headstamped 8X56 brass which is of the standard Berdan design i.e. central post with two flash holes. The diameter of the primer pocket is too big to accept normal Boxer primers. The Nazi brass I have has the Roman numeral VIII on top, 19 on the left side and 38 on the right with the Nazi eagle on the bottom.

Would you please describe the head stamp of the brass you are converting to Boxer primers. If I find some like you have I'll put it to use.

Thanks, JCherry

Hello;
I have Earl Naramore's classic, Principles and Practice of loading Ammunition. He describes once turning plugs out of tne bases of Boxer primed cases and inserting them in matching holes in Berdan primed ones. His conclusion, unless you have no other recourse, it ain't worth the effort.
Grizz

Naramore's book is something I have heard about but never seen! Would you please give your impression of this work and if you would reccommmend it for purchase? I would also like to hear from any who have read Phil Sharpe's works.

DEHillyer:

I have had both Naramore's "Principles and Practice of Loading Ammunition" and Sharpe's "Complete Guide to Handloading" for many, many years, and just about worn them out. They are great books, even if a bit out-dated, as is Sharpe's "The Rifle in America" - he is a witty and informative writer. These and other classics such as J. R. Mattern's 1926 "Handloading Ammunition", Naramore's earlier "Handloader's Manual" and many others can usually be found at AbeBooks <www.abebooks.com> in original or reprint form at fair prices. Unless you are a real first-edition type bibliophile, I suggest going for the cheaper, leter editions, as they generally have more information. On AbeBooks, search by author only, first, as sometimes an author + title search will miss the one you are looking for, even though they have it; I'm not sure why this glitch.

floodgate

Over in this thread Buckshot gives an excellent explanation of his method for converting to #209 primers.

Hi and Thanks to All!

Junior- yes , I have heard about hydraulic depriming but never tried it. I may soon , if all this work would go away!

Russ- The brass Pat was using needed to be reamed before a primer would fit....or did he 'wack' the case while on the drill rod to close those specs..... hmmmm... can't remember. Here is a good place to say "Hail, Hail ' to Pat. Collector of machine guns,he worked on Cucu clocks and model 'A's" . Taught himself to play the sax. Knew more about guns ( and EVERYTHING else)than I will in 3 lifetimes. Pat- gone but not forgotten....and sady missed.

Hornetguy- I am just goofy, I guess. I have all this turk brass.... and dad always said-"waste not- want not'

Grizzley Adams & floodgate- thank you for your replies. This is such a great hobby- shooting, hunting, competting, casting, reloading, wildcatting. This thing abouot the books .... hmmmm... I think I will start a new thread. This may be of interest.

To anyone I have missed.....Thank You for your replies...Dale

Berdan to Boxer conversion process:
This is a process to convert the common Berdan primer pocket to accept Boxer primers. I have been using converted
brass for about 2 years and they hold up quite well with medium and full loads and jacketed bullets. Todate I have
converted 6.5mm, 7mm, 7.62 and 8mm military surplus cases.

BERDAN TO BOXER PRIMER CONVERSION update Jan, 2003
Using 22LR casing as shim

Tools:
5/64" drill, 1/8" or 9/64" drill, .220" flat tip drill, 7/32" drill, counter sink bit.
Drill press (lathe optional). Rosin core solder and solder paste, both water soluble.
Use case holder when casing is held in vice. (Lexan plates drilled to hold casings vertical). .220" flat tip drill is a 7/32" drill with the tip ground flat.
Hornady LR pocket reamer, RCBS pocket uniformer (reamer).

* Drill press w/ 9/64" (or 1/8") drill, brass in vice. Drill through primer and part of anvil. Do not drill to bottom. Pry out Berdan primer.

* Drill press w/ 7/32", brass in vice, hold brass in case jig. Drill to remove anvil, widen pocket and slightly center drill bottom of pocket.

* Drill press w/ .220" flat tip drill, brass in vice. Flatten bottom of pocket.

* Solder the pocket, tap excess solder out leaving only thin layer of solder.
Clean 22LR casing with steel wool.

* Solder paste in pocket and on 22LR casing.
Press the 22LR casing into the pocket. Hold casing with a long bolt and drive the 22LR into pocket or I now use a small press. Make sure it goes in straight.

* Hold brass with a clothespin and solder 22LR and casing together. When solder adheres to head it's ready. Tap off excess solder.

* Hold brass in Lathe (or drill press). Cut excess 22LR casing with hack saw, remove excess 22LR with large drill (held my hand), sand paper to remove solder from head, machinist's cloth and/or steel wool to buff head.

* Measure pocket depth for .125" to .130". If necessary deepen bottom with a drill.

* Drill press w/ Hornady pocket reamer, brass in vice. Ream pocket until it cuts slight bevel in pocket lip.
Drill press or Lathe w/ RCBS pocket reamer. Hold brass by hand and pliers, ream pocket.

* Drill press, brass in vice, drill flash hold with 5/64" drill.

* Drill press with counter sink, brass in hand, cut slight bevel in pocket lip.

* Clean brass in soap and water. Use vinegar if necessary (short period of time). Use brush inside brass to make sure solder paste is removed.
BERDAN TO BOXER PRIMER CONVERSION (cont.)

If shim is not soldered properly it will come out while using reamer.

Use soldering iron and allow brass to cool down at room temperature. Do not douse in water or cool down in pliers, head sink or lathe chuck. This avoids annealing head and web area.

Clean solder flux from inside casing with 'acid brush', soap and water. Steel wool on end of forceps if necessary. If your wife is not looking put brass washing machine net bag and run through the washing machine.

Vinegar and water will clean discoloration from brass but limit the amount exposure as it will etch brass.

This process can be used on SR primer pocket conversions using appropriate drills and 3/8" brass tubing for the shim.

Drill carefully in the initial steps to avoid drilling to deep.

Resultant boxer pocket should be: .204" to .208" diameter and .125" to 1.30" deep.
A depth of .135" will work OK.

If necessary, use drill held my hand to remove flash from 'flash hole' inside casing.

Turk, Com Block and German 8x56R brass is brittle. Anneal: stand brass in pan of water covering bottom 1/4" of brass. Heat shoulder and neck with torch until they turning blue, tip over into water.