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Would it be better/wise to use magnum primers in the reduced loads in which the reduced loads are small compared to normal? I m just thinking about the extra reach? I use CCI Large Rifle right now and sometimes I have a hang fire in my 30-06.
Any ideas, or mistakes in this thought?


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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Personally, I would use a bulkier and/or slower powder and/or a dacron or kapok wad, rather than relying on a hotter primer.

What is your current load?


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Posts: 1536 | Location: Romance, Missouri | Registered: 04 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Right now I m using Unique and IMR3031. I m in the process of trying new powders but its hard to try new things when you have to snowshoe to the range (the last half mile) because its not cleared. So far I have had really good luck and groups with IMR3031. I will let you know how the Unique works out.


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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in my reduced, cast, rifle loads. frequently i use pistol primers.
for the powders you are using you don't need magnum primers.
for the 3031 i would use a filler.
for the unique a filler isn't necessary.
i do hope you are using more then 8 grs of it.
 
Posts: 5003 | Location: soda springs,id | Registered: 02 April 2008Reply With Quote
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I have yet to try the unique due to the weather. We just got another foot and a half of snow. Meaning the range is now under about 4feet of snow. I have to repack the trail and pack some shooting lanes...
What would be best for filler? People I have heard speaking of something I m unfamiliar with.


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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Taken before this past snow storm. You can see my rifle case to the right with my snowshoes....man they are not made for powder! I was not happy! I went back to my hand made ones.

Now what would be the biggest help for these loads? I m shooting wheel weights. So I could just shoot normal reduced loads with them? They are water quenched.


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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try 28 grains of 4895 a tuft of dacron the filler they use for quilting just enough to touch both the powder and your seated boolit.
i use dryer lint in my smaller cases like 7,5x55,308 etc i also use it to effect the powder position,burn etc.
the filler will lower your extreme spread. velocity variations and help to protect the base of your boolit.
the lint also helps stop lube purge flyers in a group,by keeping your bbl drier,which allows you to use the "wetter lubes".
 
Posts: 5003 | Location: soda springs,id | Registered: 02 April 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Lamar:
try 28 grains of 4895 a tuft of dacron the filler they use for quilting just enough to touch both the powder and your seated boolit.
i use dryer lint in my smaller cases like 7,5x55,308 etc i also use it to effect the powder position,burn etc.
the filler will lower your extreme spread. velocity variations and help to protect the base of your boolit.
the lint also helps stop lube purge flyers in a group,by keeping your bbl drier,which allows you to use the "wetter lubes".

So no empty space, just fill it enough to keep the powder in place and no empty space?


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by James Kain:
quote:
Originally posted by Lamar:
try 28 grains of 4895 a tuft of dacron the filler they use for quilting just enough to touch both the powder and your seated boolit.
i use dryer lint in my smaller cases like 7,5x55,308 etc i also use it to effect the powder position,burn etc.
the filler will lower your extreme spread. velocity variations and help to protect the base of your boolit.
the lint also helps stop lube purge flyers in a group,by keeping your bbl drier,which allows you to use the "wetter lubes".

So no empty space, just fill it enough to keep the powder in place and no empty space?


Use a piece of Dacron that will fill the empty space, but not with compressing the Dacron. It must cover from atop the powder to the base of the bullet. Let the bullet push it down a little when seating.

In some rifle cartridges I use a pistol primer. For example in the 22 Hornet I feel a rifle primer blows both the small charge of powder and the bullet into the bore before the powder gets to burning right. I switched to small pistol primers and my accuracy improved. Magnum primer have a few reasons for their use. One to help light off difficult to burn powders, such as ball powders. Another is in very cold weather applications because the cold reduces the efficient combustion of powders, especially the slower burning ones and can use all the help such as a hot magnum primer.
 
Posts: 2864 | Registered: 23 August 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Dacron

what type of Dacron do you use?
Man if I should be using this...I have 117rds to pull.....Naa I ll shoot them!


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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I go to a quilting shop (you can go to a sewing & cloth center) and I buy Dacron batting used inside the quilt layers. It's about 1/2 inch thick or more and I buy a big sheet of it.
 
Posts: 2864 | Registered: 23 August 2003Reply With Quote
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so cotton balls are not good?...unless I rip them up? or too dangerous? I will check it out tomorrow.
Thanks for the info!


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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I am afraid of anything that can compress hard against the boolit or shoulder. I stay away from cotton, drier lint, etc. Dacron is much lighter, doesn't burn or melt and will do all you need.
I don't buy the batting, I buy garnetted fiberfill in a big bag. There are no long, thick strands mixed in. A pinch pulled out and gently pushed to the powder with enough in the neck so the boolit pushes it a little when seating works like a charm. It is springy unlike cotton that can pack.
I also don't like the idea of a fast powder where a whole bunch of filler is needed. Use a slower powder so only a small amount of filler is needed to hold the powder against the primer.
Starmetal is repeating what I have said for years about a boolit moving into the bore before the powder lights good. High force primers should not be used where not needed. In fact I won't use a mag primer in the .44 or .45 revolvers unless it is bitter cold out.
He is correct and gives good instructions on putting in filler. I just like the bulk Dacron better then batting.
When you shoot up the last of your shells, raise the gun straight up before lowering to the bench for each shot.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by bfrshooter:
I am afraid of anything that can compress hard against the boolit or shoulder. I stay away from cotton, drier lint, etc. Dacron is much lighter, doesn't burn or melt and will do all you need.
I don't buy the batting, I buy garnetted fiberfill in a big bag. There are no long, thick strands mixed in. A pinch pulled out and gently pushed to the powder with enough in the neck so the boolit pushes it a little when seating works like a charm. It is springy unlike cotton that can pack.
I also don't like the idea of a fast powder where a whole bunch of filler is needed. Use a slower powder so only a small amount of filler is needed to hold the powder against the primer.
Starmetal is repeating what I have said for years about a boolit moving into the bore before the powder lights good. High force primers should not be used where not needed. In fact I won't use a mag primer in the .44 or .45 revolvers unless it is bitter cold out.
He is correct and gives good instructions on putting in filler. I just like the bulk Dacron better then batting.
When you shoot up the last of your shells, raise the gun straight up before lowering to the bench for each shot.

Thanks for the advice! beer
Good thing at least of of the shells are loaded with IMR 3031Winkthen it wont really matter, the primer is almost always going to touch the powder Wink Now that wormer weather is here finly again....(for how long) I see alot of range time soon!


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Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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