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I'm just back from a 10 year hiatus from casting and shooting. (No, I was not in jail.) I used a liquid lube called Bulletmaster that I got from Brownell's. They don't list it now. I miss it and can't find it on a websearch. It was a black liquid that came in a paint can. Seemed to be moly d based. You put about 10 lbs of bullets in a plastic tub, poured a couple of tablespoons over and gently swirled the tub, then let dry. Gave really superior results on cast rifle bullets at high speeds. Is it or anything like it still around? | ||
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You may want to try Lee liquid Alox lube. I guess it is close to the same thing! LouisB Just cut and paste the link below. http://www.leeprecision.com/catalog/browse.cgi Mid South Shooters Supply, Midway, Graf and Sons, and F&M carry it for sale! | |||
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Thanks, but no cigar, TCLouis. I know Lee's liquid Alox and use it for some things, but it stays tacky and likely to pick up grit on exposed surfaces. Bulletmaster dries like a coat of black paint. | |||
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There are several of these products being offered to shooters; whilst you were away using molybdenum disulfide coatings on bullets has become fashionable. Look at the Lyman "supermoly" spray and also products from a company called "Ms.Molly". Sorry I don't know their URL but a quick search will turn it up. Failing that just visit your local industrial engineering supply house as these lubricants have been in use in industry for many years. The stuff I use is labled as a dry film anti scuffing solution. Also, you should join the cast bullet mailing list at CB-L | |||
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If you go to a real hardware store that stocks some farm supplies [farm supply too for that matter] look for a coating that sometimes is used to coat plough & disking blades. Saw some in a store back when and it struck me that is probably what this coating your referring to is essentially. I've done by share of moly coating with cast. You still need something to provide gas seal, as these coatings don't. If you thin the Lee liquid with mineral spirts and apply a thin coat/coats if needed, it makes handling the slugs relatively clean. | |||
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Gas seal? Elucidate? All I know is that I was breaking 2600 fps w/ a 150 grain GC bullet from a a Lee mold from a .308. Used BulletMaster lube and an alloy about half wheelweights and half lino. Sized them .309 and got groups in the 1.5 - 2.0 range. I found my old can and I have a couple of ounces left. Thanks for the farm supply tip. I get to a Southern States most weeks and will check. | |||
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Elucidation: Biggest job of bullet lube is keeping those hot, high pressure gases behind said bullet. Even spaces a thou or so allow the gas to come forward-- ie, gas cutting. Your bullet paint musta been soft enough to allow the gases to blow it forward and seal, or thick enough when coated to seal. But seal ya gotta...especially if your shooting those speeds and resulting chamber pressures. What Lee bullet? | |||
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I figger the gas check seals the gases. Been many years, but it was a Lee GC 150 grain .30 cal. round nose but not real blunt. 2R ? | |||
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quote:For sure the check does keep combustion gases from destroying the bullet sides per erosion to a large extent. But consider your 309 dia check passing thru the rifle's throating-- which might be 310 or more. What seals that gas then? Consider the width of the bore's rifling-- do you think the average factory bore has uniformity of rifling depth and width to a thousandth? Not hardly. The lands themselves do vary per width too-- what plugs those 'intolerances'? The lube. [ 11-14-2002, 15:56: Message edited by: aladin ] | |||
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