What is the best lead remover out ? Most all cleaners that I see are for powder-copper-lead-plastic....I only have lead bullets go down my barrel.

Shooters Choice is the only cleaning solvent I have seen offered specifically for lead. It seemed to work well, along with scrubbing with a brush. It probably works about like Kroil. The lead remover tool works best of all, I think.

Break free bore cleaner does fairly well,,And no ammonia to boot.It does best when brushed in liberally and left alone for 15-20 min.It seems to lift the lead.Good luck,,Clay

I am going to get beaten over the head for suggesting this, but this is what I do : take a used bronze bristle brush and wrap it in 0000 steel wool. Scrub the bore with this brush and your favorite bore cleaner (and it doesn't really matter which one it is...). The 4/0 steel wool will take out the lead, and the solvent will take out the powder residue. Quick, inexpensive, and most of all, effective!!!

quote:

Originally posted by Doubless:
I am going to get beaten over the head for suggesting this, but this is what I do : take a used bronze bristle brush and wrap it in 0000 steel wool. Scrub the bore with this brush and your favorite bore cleaner (and it doesn't really matter which one it is...). The 4/0 steel wool will take out the lead, and the solvent will take out the powder residue. Quick, inexpensive, and most of all, effective!!!

That ain't all that crazy. The Lewis Lead Remover system (which works really well) uses brass mesh patches to scrub lead out.

There are also several solvents aimed at the Cowboy Shooters crowd that are pretty good at "getting the lead out"...so to speak!

Revolvers can be de-leaded easily with a brush on a cleaning rod.
Rifles can be de-leaded with Kleen-Bore Lead Away patches-tight, or
steel wool on a brush (small shudder) or
chore boy copper wool on a brush, or
a tight fitting patch with Kroil, that squeaks as it is pushed through the barrel, will remove lead. Oil or grease the barrel before shooting lead again, or the Kroil will leave the barrel TOO clean, and it will lead.
joe b.

I've always used either bronze wool or #0000 steel wool wrapped around a bronze brush for leading removal. I've been chastised quite a bit by those on the internet for making the suggestion, but I've been doing this for 15 years with several handguns and none have been negatively affected. Of course, once you find loads that don't lead a particular firearm, deleading the bore isn't required.

Thanks guys...

A perennial favorite topic - only because there seems to be no universally-accepted correct answer. About all methods can be described as mechanical, chemical, or electronic - or some combination thereof. The worst leading I've ever experienced, years ago, was with .357 revolvers, firing the old, soft, swaged SWC factory loads. A relatively few rounds (in multiple revolvers) left 'wire' in the bores, rifling barely visable, and hopeless accuracy. Removal involved elbow grease and bad language, with several ruined bronze brushes. Back then, final cleaning required a Lewis Lead Remover and much scrubbing with the bronze brushes. Since then, I've had excellent results with the above-noted bronze wool (Chore Boy, etc.), dry or with any bore cleaner. I've never had the courage to use steel wool, but friends have reported good results, with no observable damage.

I've never found an effective lead 'solvent' except for mercury (shudder!), which is no longer even a remote possibility. However, I can highly recommend the electronic method, as exemplified by the various Outers Foul Out models, or their homemade equivalents, using Lead Out (or later versions, as recommended by the manufacturer). This is a 'reverse plating' method and has been completely effective for me. With very heavy leading, I first use the mechanical methods (to remove the chunks), then degrease and follow the Foul Out instructions. When the unit reads 'clean', inspection with a borescope shows no lead remaining - bare metal. The process usually takes less than a half-hour, but it can be much longer (with cleaning the rod and changing the fluid). There are separate fluids for lead and copper (Cop Out), and both may be necessary (sequentially) if the barrel has both lead and jacket fouling.

The Foul Out was used to 'restore' two varmint rifles that a friend was about to have rebarreled after they quit grouping. I have the original plug-in model, but the later battery models work at least as well. You can also make your own.

So how can I make my own ????????

Short 44:

You might visit:

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/copperout/index.asp

There are several sets of plans/diagrams on the web, but the above includes step-by-step photos and text, plus comments by various shooters who developed modifications or alternatives.

I have only used commercial (Lead Out; there is also a Lead Out II) solution (which is, I believe, lead acetate) because it worked well and I found a gallon at a low price. This could probably be home-mixed, also. HTH

I'll try and make one and let you guys know how it turns out !!!

Heres a pic of my set up. Useing a brass cleaning rod, Dremel tool sanding roll mount, the part thats rubber with a small hole in it, the rod threads right into it and it fits snug in my 44s chamber, no nee for any others as it sets center in the short bore, using one of my 7.2v RC batteries, well its a foaming at the mouth as we speek. I'll give it 45 min and let you guys know.

i second the outers foul out system. It works wonders and will amaze you!

I know the brass rod isn't the best ? But it did VERY good. The pics here do not show how much crap was on the rod, but here you are any way. As you can see on the rod its clean on one end but boy is that thing dirty, and the 2 pic is from wipe'n it off, Also no pic of the crap that I got out from dumping the cleaner out,,, Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber. It works !!!