Just thinking of getting new mounds for pistol bullets and was wondering what you think?

I personally don't think so. I use Heavy Lyamn, Hoch, and RCBS moulds. They take longer to heat up but hold the heat better and more evenly.
Aluminum is tempting because it is so much cheaper.

They both work well. I use both. Forgot brass which I have no experience.

Dave

I like steel moulds. Must run them a bit hotter. Very consistent results.
I like Hoch nose pour moulds. They made an amateur, like me, look like a pro.

In general, steel molds do most everything better except for cost.

When cared for properly, aluminum molds will last for many many years however they can be damaged through carelessness rather easily.

However, for pistol bullets the one advantage that I can see is that I do not believe that 6 cavity molds are not made in steel, only aluminum and a 6 cavity REALLY speeds up casting.

So anyway, I would pick steel over aluminum but I would also pick a 6 cavity aluminum over a 2 cavity steel.

Since the late 1970s I have been casting using moulds with a single cavity up to six cavity. I have moulds from steel, brass, and aluminum and truthfully can't tell the difference in the finish product. My low priced moulds from Lee Precision cast just as well as my LBT, NEI, RCBS, Lyman, and custom moulds and also vintage English brass and steel moulds and antique Winchester and Lyman moulds. All work just fine and I still use moulds I puchased around 1980. I want to order 8 moulds from Accurate Moulds but I can't figure out the web site ordering process and Tom does not take email or orders from the post.
Cal

So I repeat an enquiry;what is better,a Chevy,A Ford ,or a Dodge. Personal preference. I own moulds for damn near every calibre + most are steel. My A/L ones I bought from Veral Smith (very knowledgeable cast bullet guru BTW);but I have had good results from them all.Right before the recent passing of Albert Canuck I bought several of his H+G moulding blocks (multiple cavity).I have not used these ones yet but I know from past experience that I will not be disappointed.

Casting bullets and reloading is my main hobby in the winter. Mostly I use scrap from the berms picked up one at a time. and scrap from an indoor pistol range. Just melt it down, clean and into ingots. Others have already hardened the metal. I just clean the jackets and rocks out mostly by remelting. A couple times I've had 3 large milk crates stacked neatly with ingots, 728 per crate. Right now there's just less than two full crates left.

About 1994 I joined the local indoor pistol club. And let them sucker me into "cleaning the basement" when I asked for some scrap lead. I ended up with about 95 level full 5 gallon buckets. I've given over 40 away and still have 13 full left. I'll never live long enough to use it all up. When I melt it down, I save the jackets clean in another bucket and sell that as scrap. I've gotten $58 for one bucket of scrap jackets. That more than pays the cost of the propane I use. IF it melts, its bullet metal, rocks, steel, jackets all float, trash burns up. I flux the metal fairly well and again in the pot when casting.

I have two single and a double cavity of steel. All the rest are Lee's aluminum. Only those I couldn't get six cavity are smaller. All the rest, some 27 in all are six cavity Lee, each mold has it's own handles.

When I get started, I stick with the same bullet and one mold until I fill a 2 gallon bucket heaped over full. There was a time I did the same with 5 gal buckets for 38's. That's just too many. Yet I used 'em all up in less than a years time. I have no idea how many there were. Very likely around 15,000 is my guess.

Two gallons there's around 5000 or so 38 147gr. Maybe 3500 250gr SWC .45's, and around 1800 330gr 45 Hammerheads. Last winter I cast 4 gal's 175gr 40's and 2 gal 330gr 45's. There's about 3" in that bucket left after loading 1600.

I didn't get to load many 40s'. I had a Blackhawk rebarreled to 40 S/W. A max charge of #9s is a pipsqeek load in this gun. I wasn't happy with it being so weak. H110 was even lighter. I gave up until I figured what powder would give a hotter load. I've bought some 2400, but, haven't tried it yet. That's in the plans for this winter.

I've cast more than 25 gallons of the 147gr 38s with the same mold. It got loose in the blocks pins so I sent it back to Lee for rebuild, they replaced it with a brand new set of blocks for their "half price" rebuild. So far that's the only mold I've ever worn out, or had to be repaired and that wasn't the molds failure, it was the pins holes that hold the blocks to the handles, they wouldn't stay tightened.

The 250gr SWC 45 mold has cast about ten gallons of slugs and is going fine so far.
For the $50 cost including handles I can't see where anyone could improve on them.

I haven't gotten into rifle bullet casting. The only time I tried was back in 1958 with soft lead and full loads. That didn't work! I was just a kid and had no clue's yet.

I have fired about 300 158gr 38's as fire forming loads in the .358 U/mag with 10gr Red Dot. None of my guns lead the bore with this metal. The 45 Colts all are loaded with 20gr H110. Max is up around 25-26 gr. For some reason my massive wrists won't stand that heavy a charge with many shots. Since I put the Hogue rubber grips on, I have and can do fine with these loads shooting over 300 rounds in a few hours of the 250 and 330gr 45's. I did try 200gr with this same 20gr H110 load and it's real light, IF I ever load them again it'll be with a hotter powder for a heavier load.

Just my experience's, hope you have as much good luck with what you use in yours.

George

I am not sure there is a 'better' metal for a mold. For me and my 'style' of casting the aluminum molds seem to work well. Once up to temp. I am able to make bullets about as fast as I can. When using iron molds I typically use 2 at a time, allowing one to sit while I fill the other, rotating back and forth.
C.G.B.

I have both steel and aluminum molds and both are great as mentioned above the 6 cavity aluminum molds are great. It seems to me that the two cavity aluminum molds have a "narrower ideal casting temp range" but work great. As said before in my opinion it is mostly personal preference but do check out Lee six cavity pistol molds.

Steve.........

I knew a gunsmith that offered to make me a bronze mold .Has anyone tried one ?

I ordered an RCBS iron mould for the 45Colt.I am not sure about aluminum.I think aluminum moulds are much cheaper to make.The firearm industry is trying to sell us whatever they can make more money off.

I have and regularly use moulds of Iron, Brass, and Aluminum. All will, with proper technique, cast excellent bullets and with care last for many years. Abuse them and none will last for long no matter what metal is used.

Jerry Liles

I have used steel molds from RCBS an Lyman and been satisfied. I have used aluminum molds from Lee and they're OK although I don't especially like the bullet design. Lately I got some aluminum molds from Accurate Molds in Utah and they're the best I've ever encountered of any material. When I need another mold I'll buy from him.

quote:

I want to order 8 moulds from Accurate Moulds but I can't figure out the web site ordering process

1. Look through Tom's catalog an find the bullet design you like and write the number down for future referance, then go to Products & Price click on Configure & Price a Mold.

2. Next page Disclaimer read and click Okay.

3. Next page click on the photo of the 5 cavity mold.

4. Next page choose either All cavities are of the same design or Mold contains multiple designs and click continue.

5. Choose body dia. of bullet then click continue.

6. Under Mold Blocks choose mold material and number of cavities you want, then under casting alloy choose what alloy you plan on casting with and finally choose the type of sprue plat you want with that mold, then click continue.

7. On this page you will select from the drop down list the bullet design you picked for this mold that you wrote down in step #1 then click continue.

8. On this page you are basically confirming all the parameter from the design an mold you picked,you can add a few notes here as well if you desire then click continue.

9. On this page you just check everything over add any addition notes if desired and add to cart then place you order after you have finished. After you do a few it fairly easy process.

10. Payment process.

I suspect aluminum being cheaper will be a HUGE influence on Saeed's decision.

Saeed, what purpose do you use cast bullets?

It seems you are into everything, pet cheetah, birds of prey, airplane pilot. Have you ever sky dived or ridden bulls?

I like Brass best, steel is 2nd, with Aluminum my least favorite. I have molds made from each, and use them all, but the brass ones are my favorite children!

What quantities of bullets do you cast?

George

The heat displacement from aluminum over steel is like day + night. A/L cools quick.

I have all the different types of metal molds. All make good bullets.

Aluminum cost more per pound then steel. So some say aluminum is cheaper are wrong. I believe the reason there are aluminum molds is because it's easier to machine. Their lightness plays a huge factor also.

I use both alum and steel I use the alum the most.

As they are in the most used bullets styles.

Aluminum and cast iron are the ones I have the experience with. There are great differences in technique but they both work well. Would like to try brass and may get a Mihec set one day. Packy

Pretty much what most others have said. I have steel, aluminum and brass and I can cast excellent bullets with all of them. Take care of aluminum molds and they should out last you. I have some that are 40 years old, have cast piles of bullets and still cast good.

I bought several of Alberta Canuck's H+G moulds before his passing.They are cast iron of course after the times of the day. Excellant quality.

I have some steel and some alum, I haven't really noticed any major difference in them. Aluminum is maybe a bit easier won the wrists when doing larger batches of heavy bullets. I just ordered some Lee's and an RCBS from Natchez, as they were on sale over Xmas. Good enough for what I want to do with them. I've got Lyman, Saeco, NEI, RCBS, LBT, a couple of Lee's, one from Paul Jones. They all do the job.

I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

Let it warm up more; and check the venting. I use both iron and al molds and they both work.
No molds are made from steel as it machines too roughly. Brass also makes good molds.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

I just cast two days ago in my garage and it was colder then your 15 C with a brand new aluminum mold and it cast perfect after it warmed up. In fact I had to slow my pace down because I got the mold too hot!!!!!!

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

I just cast two days ago in my garage and it was colder then your 15 C with a brand new aluminum mold and it cast perfect after it warmed up. In fact I had to slow my pace down because I got the mold too hot!!!!!!

I said it was MINUS 15 celsius not 15 celsius.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

I just cast two days ago in my garage and it was colder then your 15 C with a brand new aluminum mold and it cast perfect after it warmed up. In fact I had to slow my pace down because I got the mold too hot!!!!!!

I said it was MINUS 15 celsius not 15 celsius.

Sorry about the error, but not to matter I've still cast at that temperature with aluminum molds with no problems. You just need to learn your equipment. Different mold materials have different casting idiosyncrasies.

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

I just cast two days ago in my garage and it was colder then your 15 C with a brand new aluminum mold and it cast perfect after it warmed up. In fact I had to slow my pace down because I got the mold too hot!!!!!!

I said it was MINUS 15 celsius not 15 celsius.

Sorry about the error, but not to matter I've still cast at that temperature with aluminum molds with no problems. You just need to learn your equipment. Different mold materials have different casting idiosyncrasies.

I didn't say I was going to throw the mold away.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

I just cast two days ago in my garage and it was colder then your 15 C with a brand new aluminum mold and it cast perfect after it warmed up. In fact I had to slow my pace down because I got the mold too hot!!!!!!

I said it was MINUS 15 celsius not 15 celsius.

Sorry about the error, but not to matter I've still cast at that temperature with aluminum molds with no problems. You just need to learn your equipment. Different mold materials have different casting idiosyncrasies.

I didn't say I was going to throw the mold away.

I didn't say you were going to throw the mold away. Next time get your mold warmed up good. Some use an electric hot pad and others dip the corner in the melt. You could go around the mold with a little propane torch. Which ever way warm it up. If your sprue is hardening in more then 10 to 15 seconds it's too hot. If it hardening in just a a few seconds know that is too cold. LEE molds on the small block like two cavity pistol or a one cavity rifle, you have to speed your casting tempo up because those mold lose their heat fast!In those cold temperatures you might raise your pot temperature just a little. An electronic POD on an electric pot is a very good idea. Just trying to help you not argue with you.

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

I just cast two days ago in my garage and it was colder then your 15 C with a brand new aluminum mold and it cast perfect after it warmed up. In fact I had to slow my pace down because I got the mold too hot!!!!!!

I said it was MINUS 15 celsius not 15 celsius.

Sorry about the error, but not to matter I've still cast at that temperature with aluminum molds with no problems. You just need to learn your equipment. Different mold materials have different casting idiosyncrasies.

I didn't say I was going to throw the mold away.

I didn't say you were going to throw the mold away. Next time get your mold warmed up good. Some use an electric hot pad and others dip the corner in the melt. You could go around the mold with a little propane torch. Which ever way warm it up. If your sprue is hardening in more then 10 to 15 seconds it's too hot. If it hardening in just a a few seconds know that is too cold. LEE molds on the small block like two cavity pistol or a one cavity rifle, you have to speed your casting tempo up because those mold lose their heat fast!In those cold temperatures you might raise your pot temperature just a little. An electronic POD on an electric pot is a very good idea. Just trying to help you not argue with you.

Thanks.I will take note.I didn't want to go through the whole pot of alloy(405 grain bullets) before the mold was hot enough.Then it would have taken too much time to melt more alloy and then wait until the whole batch was hot enough to pour through the hole on the bottom of the pot.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

I just cast two days ago in my garage and it was colder then your 15 C with a brand new aluminum mold and it cast perfect after it warmed up. In fact I had to slow my pace down because I got the mold too hot!!!!!!

I said it was MINUS 15 celsius not 15 celsius.

Sorry about the error, but not to matter I've still cast at that temperature with aluminum molds with no problems. You just need to learn your equipment. Different mold materials have different casting idiosyncrasies.

I didn't say I was going to throw the mold away.

I didn't say you were going to throw the mold away. Next time get your mold warmed up good. Some use an electric hot pad and others dip the corner in the melt. You could go around the mold with a little propane torch. Which ever way warm it up. If your sprue is hardening in more then 10 to 15 seconds it's too hot. If it hardening in just a a few seconds know that is too cold. LEE molds on the small block like two cavity pistol or a one cavity rifle, you have to speed your casting tempo up because those mold lose their heat fast!In those cold temperatures you might raise your pot temperature just a little. An electronic POD on an electric pot is a very good idea. Just trying to help you not argue with you.

Thanks.I will take note.I didn't want to go through the whole pot of alloy(405 grain bullets) before the mold was hot enough.Then it would have taken too much time to melt more alloy and then wait until the whole batch was hot enough to pour through the hole on the bottom of the pot.

When I first started casting I used a pot and ladle. I use to say I tortured myself for years casting that way until I bought a RCBS electric bottom pour furnace. I thought that was the cat's meow! I got lazy. A few years ago I went back to the ladle and pot. What I'm getting at is it's my opinion, and others, that ladle casting is the better of the two. Now those bottom pours are great for pistol/revolver bullets, but not so great for either big rifle bullets or real long rifle bullets. I noticed when I bottom poured rifle bullet and then weighed them I got quite a variance in weights. With the ladle I got .0003 grain variance. Much much better. I also got better fill out especially the base fill out with the ladle. I think what it is, is that the ladle has volume without the high flow pressure, whereas the bottom pour has too high of a flow pressure. By the way I'm not using the type of ladle that has the snout with a hole on it much like a bottom pour furnace, it is an actual ladle type with the little bent spout for lack of words. No pressure just the weight of the melt. Anyway like I said warm them aluminum mold up and cast at a tempo that will keep them warm. Good luck and good casting to you.

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

I just cast two days ago in my garage and it was colder then your 15 C with a brand new aluminum mold and it cast perfect after it warmed up. In fact I had to slow my pace down because I got the mold too hot!!!!!!

I said it was MINUS 15 celsius not 15 celsius.

Sorry about the error, but not to matter I've still cast at that temperature with aluminum molds with no problems. You just need to learn your equipment. Different mold materials have different casting idiosyncrasies.

I didn't say I was going to throw the mold away.

I didn't say you were going to throw the mold away. Next time get your mold warmed up good. Some use an electric hot pad and others dip the corner in the melt. You could go around the mold with a little propane torch. Which ever way warm it up. If your sprue is hardening in more then 10 to 15 seconds it's too hot. If it hardening in just a a few seconds know that is too cold. LEE molds on the small block like two cavity pistol or a one cavity rifle, you have to speed your casting tempo up because those mold lose their heat fast!In those cold temperatures you might raise your pot temperature just a little. An electronic POD on an electric pot is a very good idea. Just trying to help you not argue with you.

Thanks.I will take note.I didn't want to go through the whole pot of alloy(405 grain bullets) before the mold was hot enough.Then it would have taken too much time to melt more alloy and then wait until the whole batch was hot enough to pour through the hole on the bottom of the pot.

When I first started casting I used a pot and ladle. I use to say I tortured myself for years casting that way until I bought a RCBS electric bottom pour furnace. I thought that was the cat's meow! I got lazy. A few years ago I went back to the ladle and pot. What I'm getting at is it's my opinion, and others, that ladle casting is the better of the two. Now those bottom pours are great for pistol/revolver bullets, but not so great for either big rifle bullets or real long rifle bullets. I noticed when I bottom poured rifle bullet and then weighed them I got quite a variance in weights. With the ladle I got .0003 grain variance. Much much better. I also got better fill out especially the base fill out with the ladle. I think what it is, is that the ladle has volume without the high flow pressure, whereas the bottom pour has too high of a flow pressure. By the way I'm not using the type of ladle that has the snout with a hole on it much like a bottom pour furnace, it is an actual ladle type with the little bent spout for lack of words. No pressure just the weight of the melt. Anyway like I said warm them aluminum mold up and cast at a tempo that will keep them warm. Good luck and good casting to you.

This makes sense to me.I had difficulty with the pour pressure(only with the 500gr gr Accurate Molds,mold) that you describe on my bottom pour temperature controlled RCBS furnace.
I have a ladle but with the hole on the bottom.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I tried a Lee aluminium mold next to my two iron molds last week on a day when it was minus 15 celsius.
It only took a few casts out of the iron molds-10 or so before they were warm enough and bullets came out good.Then I tried the aluminum mold and it wouldn't stop casting cracked or wrinkled bullets.I just gave up and put casting with the Lee mold off for a warmer day.

I just cast two days ago in my garage and it was colder then your 15 C with a brand new aluminum mold and it cast perfect after it warmed up. In fact I had to slow my pace down because I got the mold too hot!!!!!!

I said it was MINUS 15 celsius not 15 celsius.

Sorry about the error, but not to matter I've still cast at that temperature with aluminum molds with no problems. You just need to learn your equipment. Different mold materials have different casting idiosyncrasies.

I didn't say I was going to throw the mold away.

I didn't say you were going to throw the mold away. Next time get your mold warmed up good. Some use an electric hot pad and others dip the corner in the melt. You could go around the mold with a little propane torch. Which ever way warm it up. If your sprue is hardening in more then 10 to 15 seconds it's too hot. If it hardening in just a a few seconds know that is too cold. LEE molds on the small block like two cavity pistol or a one cavity rifle, you have to speed your casting tempo up because those mold lose their heat fast!In those cold temperatures you might raise your pot temperature just a little. An electronic POD on an electric pot is a very good idea. Just trying to help you not argue with you.

Thanks.I will take note.I didn't want to go through the whole pot of alloy(405 grain bullets) before the mold was hot enough.Then it would have taken too much time to melt more alloy and then wait until the whole batch was hot enough to pour through the hole on the bottom of the pot.

When I first started casting I used a pot and ladle. I use to say I tortured myself for years casting that way until I bought a RCBS electric bottom pour furnace. I thought that was the cat's meow! I got lazy. A few years ago I went back to the ladle and pot. What I'm getting at is it's my opinion, and others, that ladle casting is the better of the two. Now those bottom pours are great for pistol/revolver bullets, but not so great for either big rifle bullets or real long rifle bullets. I noticed when I bottom poured rifle bullet and then weighed them I got quite a variance in weights. With the ladle I got .0003 grain variance. Much much better. I also got better fill out especially the base fill out with the ladle. I think what it is, is that the ladle has volume without the high flow pressure, whereas the bottom pour has too high of a flow pressure. By the way I'm not using the type of ladle that has the snout with a hole on it much like a bottom pour furnace, it is an actual ladle type with the little bent spout for lack of words. No pressure just the weight of the melt. Anyway like I said warm them aluminum mold up and cast at a tempo that will keep them warm. Good luck and good casting to you.

This makes sense to me.I had difficulty with the pour pressure(only with the 500gr gr Accurate Molds,mold) that you describe on my bottom pour temperature controlled RCBS furnace.
I have a ladle but with the hole on the bottom.

You may be able to use that ladle as along as you don't put the hole up against the sprue plate. Pour from a little distance above the sprue hole. It may work. I use a Rowell ladle. It has a little channel that goes from from the bottom of the ladle to the spout on the edge. This is inside the ladle, not the outside. This prevents any surface debris from getting into the pour.

those rowels are the bomb.

for the bigger bullets a ladle is the only way to go.
I can cast 400+- okay with a bottom pour but my pot has 2 spouts and I can adjust the flow infinitely.
I still have to use a ladle for my little .180 diameter bullets to get consistency...
each mold has little,, umm a personality and like to be filled in different ways.

across the board a ladle will generally do a better job.

My experience pretty much mirrors Cal's. I have 50-60 moulds, steel, aluminum and brass from LBT, Lyman, NOE, Arsenal, Mihec, Accurate, H&G, H&H, and Mountain Molds. Possibly some more I've forgotten. They all cast good bullets. I have a 10 cavity steel H&G 38 wadcutter mold that's like doing 10 pound curls. The thing is a beast. I have a couple of Lee single cavity aluminum molds that feel like a feather. They all turn out a quality bullet.

Aluminum is nothing to be afraid of in a bullet mold. NOE, Arsenal, Accurate, Mountain and LBT all turn out excellent aluminum molds that turn out excellent bullets.

Have been casting some 50 years. Molds I like best are the old Hensley and Gibbs steel molds. 4 cavity at most as 6 and larger are too heavy to use for long periods of time. Second best have been NEI steel for me. Very good product too.

Sadly both firms are now history as NEI is no longer accepting orders.

In recent years have been acquiring new molds through the Group buy section of http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php

The molds I have found there that I like the best are the Mihec brass molds. They are Very, Very good! He has a line list as well.

Have bought some aluminum molds and find them OK for light use.