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I have been useing the Lee sizer and alox. I want to use some of the hard lubes. What do you recomend for a luber?
I was looking at the Lyman, the one model has the built in heater, is this nessary, can you just crank down on the pressure to do this? I live in a cooler type climate.
 
Posts: 97 | Location: Northern Lower Mich | Registered: 01 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Hard lubes need heaters. NRA formula or softer do not. Go cranking down too hard on a hard lube or even on a conventional lube in cold weather and you'll blow a seal. Only reason I know of to use a hard lube is for a commercial caster who needs the lube to stay in place in shipping. For the rest of us, the NRA formula and some of the homebrews are better.

On the rare occasions I need a heater, I improvise. Heat tape works. Hair dryers work. A light bulb in a big coffee can slipped over the luber works.

If you have the money, get a Star. If you are broke as the rest of us, get whatever you can pick up cheap from a gun show, ebay, or your local shopper paper.
 
Posts: 1570 | Location: Base of the Blue Ridge | Registered: 04 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Quote:

I want to use some of the hard lubes. What do you recomend for a luber?





Hard Lubes are very usefull when reloading significant quantities of rounds with a progressive press. Soft lubes are a mess when reloading a few hundred of rounds. It is necessary a lot of time to maintain all clean, press and accesories.

If you go for the hard lubes way, here my two cents of experience;
I lube and size 500/600 rounds each time, with a Lyman 450, grey old model.
I use homebrewed lube; 80% beeswax /20% lard (also 85%15% which is as hard as Lyman Orange Magic). They do not flow in summer or winter ambient temperature (40�F in winter here in the South) .
Best device I find out is to focuss a 100watts lamp bulb , on one side of the Luber.Luber gets lukewarm in 10/15 minutes and lube flows perfectly. A 150w lamp bulb also works OK.
A lamp bulb maintains a constant temperature regime, which is an advantage, because if lube is heated too much it becomes liquid and components split in layers.

IMHO, your decision depends on how many rounds are you going to reload each time and your budget to buy the best lube sizer for your application.
I do not have experience with the Lyman with built in heater to help.

Hope this helps

BA Shooter
 
Posts: 126 | Location: Buenos Aires, Argentine | Registered: 21 August 2003Reply With Quote
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Ken
I use LBT Blue and I have used Rooster Red HVR. Both do well for me. I've used the Alox stuff, I've found that it it's pretty messy. The home made lubes is most likely really good lube I just don't see the need when I can buy the hard lubes. I still got bunches of Microlube that I use for pistols when I've exhausted the LBT.
When I started using the LBT I used the light bulb trick. I've used an old iron on an aluminum plate, that the sizer was bolted too.
Hell, I asked my ex-wife if two of her very larger aunts would sit on a couple sticks of lube to warm them up and flatten them. They didn't see the practicality.
Jim
 
Posts: 6173 | Location: Richmond, Virginia | Registered: 17 September 2000Reply With Quote
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I have used a SAECO for more years than I care to tell of. Now it is made by Redding as the Redding-Saeco. The old dies work on the new machines and the new dies work on the old machines.

I have two of them--one for hard lube and hard bullets, which I use with a base heater (Rooster Red). The other is used with a soft black powder lube--no heater needed, thank you. The built-in gas check seater is convenient. The most difficult problem is always getting a closely fitted nose punch for popular bullets that are not Saeco/Redding-Saeco. I now order custom molds from NEI and have them cut nose punches for the Saeco at the same time.

If you buy one of the Lyman type, get the RCBS. RCBS will take Lyman dies and punches and has a slightly better reputation for durability. I do not use them, but I am told that except for some small stuff and quality, it is the same design.

Geo.
 
Posts: 305 | Location: Indian Territory | Registered: 21 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Geo. I've had and used the daylights out of my old Lyman 450 for over 40 years with never a problem. If the RCBS model can equal or beat that, it must be a dandy.

Probably either one will last a lifetime and a guy should just take whatever he can get the easiest.

I suspect Lyman stuff is the most plentiful and versatile simply by virtue that they practically invented the home grown cast bullet game.
 
Posts: 19677 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I've been checking ebay and havent seen either Rcbs or Lyman yet. There were a couple new ones, but I want used (cheap)
 
Posts: 97 | Location: Northern Lower Mich | Registered: 01 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Next match at your home club, let everyone, especially your match director, know you are looking for a lubsizer.
 
Posts: 47 | Registered: 22 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Ice, I usually see some for sale at gunshows, but pop the cap on the lube cylinder and crank up the piston to make sure you have one. Then examine the cast metal for cracks.

If all that's a go, you should be set for life. You'll just have to order whatever GH&I dies you want from Lyman.
 
Posts: 19677 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
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