I've got some 250 grain flat base 375's I want to load in an H&H. I've read that the base should not protrude below the case neck. To do so in the 375 H&H, one of the lube grooves would have to be above the case neck and exposed. Any problem here? bob

Bob,
In the perfect world (i.e., with a bullet custom made for your gun), the bullet will not protrude into the powder space, no lube grooves will be exposed, and the front band will make contact with the rifling. Fat chance this happy state of affairs will exist with just any old bullet. I'd seat the bullet out until it makes contact with the rifling, assuming it will feed in that position, and live with any other compromises that result.

If a groove is exposed you have several options. You can leave that groove empty. Or you can use a hard lube that isn't sticky. Or you can dust the exposed lube with motor mica.

You are always better off seating the bullet out to touch the rifling. If that leaves an exposed lube groove you can:

1. Leave it empty and shoot away. you may find out you don't need the lube in that groove anyway.
2. Dip or paint the exposed part with liqid Alox.
3. Fill the goove with standard lube and be careful not to get dirt and junk in the lube. This works fine at the range or under controled conditions, but not so well for hunting.

Veral.... err oops, mountaingun-- methinks there's a couple more OP-tions.

First, I don't think leavin' the lube off that last groove is a good idea. It'll fly in some guns and might be semi-messy in others. That dab of lube blows forward for seal'n before said bullet bumps [if indeed it does at the BHN used].

Couple other options. Cut your check shank to just fit the check for length and make that last driver say .1" or so. This gives an easy .12 of insertion sans lube troubles.

Other is using the slow fuel approach with about a full one and topping with a filler. Any potential lube migration is handled easily in this manner.

Sorry 'bout the name mixup. Just your answers are more on the mark/honest sans self promotion than some 'makers on other channels.

Hi I have the same problem with my 375,416,500AS.
I like to have the space in front of the gas check I feel it leaves some place for the lead the gascheck scrapes off the inside of the barrel to acumulate.
My solution is to dip the normaly lubed bullet in lic. allox just enough to cover the exposed nose and than let it dry for at least a week, it is than nice and dry.
I always wondered about shooting a dry front part of the bullet into the barrel without lube anyway.

Just my toughts
Martin

bobc...This is one of the rules that have been around for years and has to be broken occasionally.

I have a 375 H & H and shoot a 350 grain cast in it from time to time and to be sure, it's going below the case neck and I'm getting acuracy in the 1 1/2" range with it.

I have a Marlin .35 Remington that has a really short throat and almost all of the cast designs extend below the throat. I have one combo that has shot 1" groups for me with the bullet extending below the neck.

Think we should modify this rule to read, "shouldn't extend below the neck if possible."

Load that bullet and shoot it. It should come out all right./beagle

Beagle have you got a way to post a pic of that 375 boolit? I think many would find it interastin'.

Don't know if I could find my copy of it..

I've loaded a lot of rifle and a few handgun boolits with lube/grooves exposed, and I don't think performance has been effected a whole lot. Lyman 311291 comes to mind as the boolit I do this with a lot, and as long as the front drive band is in contact with the rifling origin some level of accuracy will result. At that point I commence tweaking, and good things follow soon thereafter. You just need to be careful to not let boolits with exposed lube fall into sand and dirt--and YES, it happens while hunting. PITA.

I loaded up a dummy round and found that the front lube band is just in the case when the bullet touches the rifling. Chambering has some resistance, and base of bullet is just at the bottom of the neck. Maybe this is the best place to start. I can see the rifling marks on the extracted round. I take it this is an advantage and not a problem as long as the round will chamber. Thanks for all the advice. Bob

Jay...It's NEI's 320 grain RFN. Mine runs a little over 350 grains with GC and lube. No pic but look at their website and you'll see it.

Had a DC made in meehanite with the 320 RFN and a 300 spitzer in the same blocks right before Walt passed away. Almost had to fight him to get him to make it. As it is, I have to use one cavity at a time or dimensions will be affected by the heat on the adjacent cavity.

Good bullet. Has a twofer on Eland to it's credit in Namibia. Killed the first and immobilized the one behind him./beagle