I have a RCBS Lub-A-Matic used with a Lyman lube seizer heater and Thompson's Blue Angle lube.
The problem is that the O rinds on the reservoir follower consistently come out of the follower's groves and tear. I am careful to only tighten the screw enough to fill out the bullet's lube groves.
I have called RCBS a couple of times and they respond by sending me a new set of O rings at no charge. RCBS says that i should not have a problem using blue angle lube as long as I have a heater, which I do, but its not working out well.
The Lyman heater doesn't get very hot. It seems like I need either a hotter heater, a different lube sizer or switch to a softer lube. Any suggestions or shared experiences would be appreciated.
quote:Originally posted by Marty Singer: I have a RCBS Lub-A-Matic used with a Lyman lube seizer heater and Thompson's Blue Angle lube.
The problem is that the O rinds on the reservoir follower consistently come out of the follower's groves and tear. I am careful to only tighten the screw enough to fill out the bullet's lube groves.
I have called RCBS a couple of times and they respond by sending me a new set of O rings at no charge. RCBS says that i should not have a problem using blue angle lube as long as I have a heater, which I do, but its not working out well.
The Lyman heater doesn't get very hot. It seems like I need either a hotter heater, a different lube sizer or switch to a softer lube. Any suggestions or shared experiences would be appreciated.
TIA
Marty
Tru a lite bulb next to the reservior casing-- warming the casting more thoroughly.
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001
Marty, Aladin's correct: Try a low wattage light bulb wired to a dimmer switch, use a softer lube, or a different lube heater. For example, GAR (590 McBride Ave., West Paterson, NJ 07424) has a sizer heater & plate that puts out some serious BTU's...for $30. You can also e-mail them at: garreloading@aol.com Hope this helps, ...Maven
Posts: 480 | Location: N.Y. | Registered: 09 January 2003
Marty...The light bulb's a good idea. I cast in a cool garage and have a 2 gallon tin potato chip can with a 60 watt bulb in it that I set over the whole sizer before I start to lube. About 15 minutes is usually sufficient to get the lube warm and flowing....may take more with Blue Angel as I'm not familiar with it.
This should get everything soft and ready to flow and slide easy and eliminate the cracked o-rings.
Be sure that you take pressure off the lube reservoir prior to heating as there have been instances of cracked reservoirs due to the lube expanding under heat./beagle
Thanks for the reply's. By all accounts more heat is needed. I will look into either one of the heaters that GAR sells or rig something up with a light bulb.
Looks like, to me, that your luber-sizer heater may be defective. Mine are a bit slow but they do get really hot. Too hot in fact for the 50/50 beeswax/alox lube. I have to unplug it after about 20 minutes otherwise the lube comes oozing out. My other luber-sizer (both are Lyman) has Lyman's Orange magic lube in it and I have to let it heat up longer. If the temperature is below 70 degrees, tou can easily break the screw deal that moves the plunger that applies the pressure to the lube. You might try leaving the heater on for about an hour prior to lubing and sizing. maybe it'll get hot enough by then, although I feel it should not take that long. Paul B.
Posts: 2814 | Location: Tucson AZ USA | Registered: 11 May 2001
I have never used a heater. What I have always used are the cheap clip on aluminum lights from Home Depot. I think they are about 10" in diameter. 2 of them usually works. I adjust how much heat I use or need (dependant on the temperature of the lube) by the distance the lights are away from the sizer. I aim one towards the bottom of the press by the ram and one towards the back where the lube goes. Crude but it works. Beau
I use a blanket on mine. Had the same problem about not getting hot enough, but was more a problem of not retaining heat. A cover of old thick rag helps a bunch. Then it gets too hot and I pull the plug. Plug in, plug out, plug in,... well you get the idea, about 10-minute cycles. Seems to work okay for me. Like beagle mentioned, plug'er up 15-20 minutes ahead of time, and yer ready to go. sundog
Posts: 287 | Location: Koweta Mission, OK | Registered: 28 August 2001
Marty, I also have an RCBS lube-sizer that displays the same problem as yours. I have used hard lube with heater, soft lube, and everything in between. The only way I have found to prevent torn O rings is to not run the reservoir completly dry. That is, I do not run the O rings with the round follower they are mounted on to the bottom of the reservoir. I believe the rings are being torn as they are being withdrawn because of a rough area or oversized area at the bottom of the reservoir. When I have time I need to drain the lube-sizer and heat it to remove all the lube I can to see exactly what the problem is. It certainly is annoying. If anybody has a cure, please share it. 38-40
I have a buddy who worked in the city's street sign shop, who liberated a few chunks of aluminum plate for me. I bolted the plate to the table, bored holes through it for the sizer. I found an old clothing iron at a yard sale for a couple of bucks to provide heat. I have an adjustable temp. lube/sizer heater for the cost of a few bucks. Jim
Posts: 6173 | Location: Richmond, Virginia | Registered: 17 September 2000
Like Arkypete said. 3/16" aluminum plate, drilled & trimmed. Run the iron at 1/2 heat for 10 minutes, 1/4 for 10, then just on keeps the lube at 100-110�F. Just right for Lyman Orange Magic.
Bye Jack
Posts: 176 | Location: Saskatchewan | Registered: 14 January 2001
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