I have a Lee REAL mold for my 50 Lyman Muzzel loader. As cast the bullets are a little too big to fit and press home by hand (unlike the bought ones that came with the rifle).

If I add a small quantity of wheel weights will this reduce the "as cast" diamitre or increase it? The lead I have been using to cast with is only 98% pure so I could go looking for some pure lead or add something (wheel weights or tin) to get diamitre down.

Adding anything to pure lead will increase the diameter. The 2% impurity in your alloy is probably increasing the diameter 0.0005" or more compared to pure lead.

If you quench them do they get smaller or bigger? Or not change?

I have never cast round balls, but I'd like to know what you find out.

Good luck!

Don, they are made to engrave the rifling when you load. You need a short starter to get them started. R.E.A.L.--Rifling Engraved At Loading!
If you add anything to harden them, you will have to REALLY beat them in. Leave well enough alone or you will lose accuracy.

Thanks

I ran into the same thing. A coat of spray graphite mould release in the cavity and running my lead a little hotter gave much easier loading and did not harm accuracy.

I'm gonna scare some of you guys with the way I load my .54 with 300gr REAL's, or RB's in a dirty bore.

With no experience at all with a bp. I cast up a 3# coffee can of these from HARD lead without a clue they'd be too hard to load.

When I had problems getting them started I had the muzzle of the gun relief bored down to about 3/4". They just slip right in loose now.

Having cast too many to remelt and start all over. I decided to go ahead and shoot them. They sure shoot well out to 175yds I can hit a steel target first shot from the bags.

Also, as my hands have been boogered up over the years I have trouble pushing the ram rod when things are a little tight.
So, bought a 1/2" brass rod and center drilled one end on a lathe. Then welded an inch of round on the end of 6" X pipe of 1/2" dia. For those of you that don't know what X pipe is. That means it's near acctual ID. It's used for hydraulic lines and very high pressure lines. The walls are much thicker and the steel is better quality too.

anyway, this round and the pipe make's up a light weight slide hammer that just slips over the brass rod. I then lightly hammer the slugs down the bore, then tap them once to make a tight contact on the powder.

This is light enough and easy enough it's not hammered like it could be. sure works great for me. IF the bore gets real dirty and the shooting is fast and furious when there's only a few shooters. I can still load with ease without having to clean the barrel.

I'd suggest you have the muzzle relief bored, it cost me $20 to have the 'smith do it right.
With softer slugs, and clean barrel, better hands, it would be the CURE.

George