I picked up some casting equipment over the weekend, and I wanted to ask some questions. The seller gave me a crash course, but there are things that I need to have cleared up.

I have read the 47th Lyman Ed. on Cast Bullets, and some other related articles on it. I plan to start with .358 diameter in a .358NM rifle since I have gas checks, and a lubricator/ sizer die for that diameter. I think I have a basic grasp of the casting process itself.

1) I have an LBT Hardness Tester whose operation I need explained.
http://www.hunt101.com/img/290970.JPG
a) What does "set" mean?
b) Do all the parts appear to be there?
c) I tested some existent lead that was in the pot and got a dimple with only a "5", would the alloy be that soft?
2) I have an RCBS lubricator/ sizer. It has .358 dia. dies installed, but its all gummed up.
a) How do I determine proper top punch shape?
b) What is the proper lube to use?
c) Is there a difference between rifle and pistol lubes? (besides the obvious!)
d) What is the mode of operation of this equipment?
e) What about installing gas checks?
3) I have to purchase moulds and handles still. Any recommendations as to iron or steel or aluminum? What about other considerations?

I know this is alot to ask, but we all enjoy ( or at least I do ) helping other's on AR, so I appreciate your help and guidance!

3584ELK, I can answer some, but not all of your questions. First, a better book to read is Lyman's "Cast Bullet Handbk., 3rd. Ed." or even RCBS' "Cast Bullets, Vol. I" as both explain more than the one you have. Second, you can clean the gummed up die by soaking it in mineral spirits (paint thinner) for a few minutes, using a hair dryer, or by leaving it in the sun until the old lube melts. Third, you need to push a soft slug (a round ball or egg shaped fishing sinker of the proper diameter will suffice) through your rifle's bbl. (remove all traces of Cu fouling; oil the bore well) and measure it to determine whether you'll need a .358", .359" or even .360" sizing die. Btw, Lyman & RCBS dies are interchangeable, so are their top punches. Also, bullet shape governs the choice of top punch: Lyman, RCBS & Saeco list appropriate ones/bullet shape; Lee does not. As for gas checks, the "snap on" (Hornady) type is the better choice. You literally snap them on the bullet prior to sizing & lubing them. Moreover, although Lee (aluminum) bullet molds are the least expensive, it doesn't mean they're poorly made or not worth considering. Several firms offer custom-made (fitted and/or designed) Al molds as well, but I don't think you want to go there yet. As for iron & brass molds, Lyman, RCBS & Saeco/Redding make the former and they are of excellent quality (Some argue that Saeco is the best of the 3) and can be had used on EBay. With Lyman & RCBS, the first three digits of the mold generally tell you the dia. of the bullet it casts. E.g., Lyman #358429 is a ~170gr. Keith/SWC bullet that drops from the mold @ ~.358" (mine is closer to .3595"). Remember that a mold which drops slightly oversized bullets is infinitely better than one which casts too small. Lastly, pistol & rifle bullet lubes differ in composition and thus the velocity range they encompass. If in doubt, use a good rifle lube, e.g., Lyman Super Moly, Lee Liquid Alox, NRA 50-50 Alox & beeswax, LBT Blue, etc. ...Maven

LBT is making the hardness tester again. You can contact them and get a copy of the instructions. You have all the parts. It's pictured upside down on your link, but you probably already know that.

In a nutshell, you place the bullet under the screw pin, turn the screw into the bullet until the the pointer reaches the set position, push the lever down and hold it for 2 seconds. When released, the BHN hardness will read on the scale. The bullet base must be flat to read accurately. If not, flatten it with a file. If you go past the set postion, start over in another spot. You can't just back it off and retighten.

Saeco #352 is a wonderful mold for 35 caliber rifles. It is a 250gr. flat nose bullet. It's very accurate and a good game bullet. Saeco molds are iron only and IMO they are second to none in quality.

Thanks Fellas,

Those are big helps, I have work to do it seems, I have slugged barrels before, so no problem there.

Thanks a bunch on the LBT Q. Now I have a clue!

Starting out with a 35 caliber rifle is always the right way to go

I've never used a hardness tester, unless you are mixing your own alloys, or are a hardcore experimentor, they aren't needed. I shoot straight wheelweights, and they work great for rifles and pistols.

Use a heat gun to melt the old lube out of the lube/sizer and get the sizing die out. I'd advise getting a .359" sizer, oversize almost always produces better accuracy and reduces/eliminates leading. Top punches will depend on the shape of the bullets nose, so until you get a mold or two, it's tough to say what you need. Getting a top punch for a semi-wadcutter bullet, and a run one will likely cover your needs though.

As far as proper lube, I find LBT blue to work well for about everything, ie rifle/pistol. RCBS lube and alox have not worked well for me. A homemade lube of roughly 50/50 beeswax and moly/lythium axle greese is a good lube and easily made.

The lyman book will describe how to use the equipment.

For gas checks, I place them on the base of the bullet by hand, and then run them trhough the lube sizer. I like Hornady checks.

I've cast with aluminum, brass, steel and cast iron molds. I like all materials except for brass. Brass seems to be the most finicky as far as being too cold or two hot, the other materials all cast well when run hot. Most beginner casters have problems with not getting their pot and molds hot enough. Let the mold warm up with the pot, and when the pot is full of molten lead, dip the corner of the closed mold in the lead for a few minutes. If the bullets come out wrinkly or with rounded edges, dip the corner of the mold back in the pot for another minute or two. If the lead doesn't form up a sprue, but rathers run out to leave a paper thin layer then you are too hot, but it takes awhile to get the mold that hot.

I'd suggest starting with a 180 to 200 gr swc gc bullet mold. RCBS makes good molds, as well as handles. Lee makes a very economical and good mold, but unfortunately doesn't have a standard offering of this shape. Their 160 gr rf plain base is a good design, and works well for plinker loads in 35 cal rifles. While expensive, I think ballisticast makes the best molds on the market, they cast iron and opperate flawlessly. For custom molds, mountain molds is the best deal out there, and I've cast from several of his molds. I'd opt for the aluminum, least expensive and they are very good molds.

Look high and low for a lyman 3589 or 358009 mold. This casts a rougly 280 gr rn bullet, and has been sadly discontinued by Lyman. I looked for years and finally traded into one. In my 350 Rigby, it'll group 5 into 1" at 100 yds, which is equal to my jacketed bullet accuracy.