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Re: H335 in 30-30? long
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hi Steve The first thing I would do is run a 'tight' fitting patch thru the bore to see if there are any tight spots or if the bore gets larger as it gets closer to the muzzle.Pay good attention at the end of the chamber and under the sights as these places can be "tight" sometimes. I had a Ruger target pistol with a tight spot just in front of the chamber. It shot awful!The bullets were bouncing around the rest of the bore. I lapped that tight spot out & it shoots much better. In fact, I plan to keep it now. I would have traded it for a brush pile and burnt the brush pile before. Dale
 
Posts: 301 | Location: Xenia,Il. 62899 | Registered: 14 November 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the reply. I should have a chance to find tight spots while getting the lead out. I only shot 6 shots, but got a pretty good skim coating on everything. The primers were pretty flat, much moreso than the 27 gr. 3031 load. Shouldn't be a hot load. I've got one of those little "Complete Reloading Manual" for the 30-30, and the lyman section lists the 311041 with H335 up to 30 gr.This gun hasn't shown any tendancy to up pressures with below max loads before now.
 
Posts: 339 | Location: SE Kansas | Registered: 05 March 2003Reply With Quote
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My Lyman lists 22-30 grs. I would start at the 22 and work up slowly. I personally don't like 335 in 30 cal cast loads. I destroyed a bolt in a Rem 78 in 308W. I was using 335 and still don't know why it happened. It broke the rim of the bolt that holds the base of the shell. The primer was almost the size of a dime. I was using info in the Lyman #46. Mark
 
Posts: 210 | Location: Willamette Valley | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the advice guys. I've got H4831SC,RL-22, H380 and Varget on the shelf, and some H4350 on the way. Guess I'll try the slower stuff. First thing though, is to finish getting the leading out of the barrel. I worked a little last night with Ed's Red, and then some G96. May end up using some Wipe-Out. Hate to think about going the JB route from the muzzle! Got the last few bullets of the old batch drying from another coat of Liquid Alox, and a bunch of them that were cast last spring coated awaiting gas checks. Should have time this weekend to give things a try.

Thanks again, Steve

Edited to say H4831SC, not H7831SC
 
Posts: 339 | Location: SE Kansas | Registered: 05 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Have any of you people used H335 with the Lyman 311041 bullet in the 30-30? I have a M94 Ranger with a 1.5-5x Simmons I bought a few years ago just to try cast on deer.To make another long story shorter, I've never been happy with it's accuracy. I've tried all the tricks I could find( bedding the buttstock, floating the fore and bands, ect.). The best I had done was with 3031 and a 150 condom bullet. It's been cleaned thoroughly between types of bullets. It didn't like 4895 at all, but would get me about 5" with 27 gr. 3031 and the 311041 water quenched from WW with a bit of added tin babbit(1968 fps). Worked great on the 5 deer I've used it on. Just need a little more confidence in the accuracy. Tonight I tried some H335 I had for the .223. Tried 28gr. H335 since Lyman goes up to 30. Well, according to the muzzlejump, it's a bit hotter than the 3031 load, but shooting in the back yard at 25yards with a makedo rest I got 5/8" for 3 shots. Got real interested, as that's about half what the 3031 load would do. Problem is, it's leading the barrel. Lubed with liquid alox only and the bullets have been sitting around for about 5 years since the last time I ran off a batch. Never had any problem with the old load leading. The question at long last, is have any of you guys used H335 with success with cast? Would the alloy likely be starting to soften after sitting that long? It did seem the lube on the bullets was thinner than I remember the last time I worked with the gun a couple of years ago. Anyone have any ideas? I plan to order an H & I die set for the lubber, but with this weather, it may be a while before I can lube out in the garage. Thanks Steve
 
Posts: 339 | Location: SE Kansas | Registered: 05 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Ole 270---Find you some of those pot scrubber pads that are copper or brass, tear you off a small piece and wrap around a bore brush, open your action and run the rod down from the muzzle and into the action, screw on your bore brush and pull back into the bore and stroke a few lick's and your lead will come out easy.

I would not be afraid to use JB as a final cleaning after you get all your lead out, it would do more good than harm at this stage of the game, use a rod guide at the muzzle if you are concerned about your crown.

Good luck
 
Posts: 18 | Registered: 14 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Hi ole,
Just got back from the range today & shot some of those 311041 bullets. Hardened wheelweights, Lee Liquid Alox, sized .311 this time. The load of choice would have to be 31.5gr. Win. 748 with 28.6gr. doing about the same. I don't have a chrono so don't know the speed but they are grouping inside of an inch at 50yds. Maybe try working up to that & see. Once again, no leading...only time I ever got severe leading was with some undersized .429" bullets I bought at a gun show out of my .444.
 
Posts: 128 | Location: Star, Idaho | Registered: 01 January 2003Reply With Quote
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