Can you help my understanding about what the lanolin does in FWFL? I think the mineral oil acts to soften(plasticiser?) the beeswax; the castor oil lubricates; the soap is an emulsifier to keep the first two mixed in the beeswax which is the carrier for the castor oil. I'm guessing the lanolin is a bit of a bore conditioner (as in Ed's Red) and maybe helps the beeswax stick to the bullet and flow through the sizer?
Instead of adding parafin for stiffening the lube would a little stearic acid do the job (without diluting the lube as parafin would)?
I really enjoy the experimentation but don't want to spin my wheels reinventing the wheel.
cukrus

cukrus, you got it right! Lanolin increases the viscosity, and unfortunately the stickies too. Use stearic acid only when you want to harden the lube (a little) and lower its melting point (a lot). Sorta' counter-productive unless we are trying to compensate for a lube error already made. To keep the lube at the same hardness, and raise the melting point (a lot), use sodium stearate. To make the lube drier (not as sticky), and reduce the viscosity (a little), use magnesium stearate. Calcium stearate can be used for the same function, but it goes overboard making the lube too dry and rough. Keep in mind, though, there is no such thing as a 100 percent stearate mixture in any technical grade, including hand made soaps, etc. In other words, technical sodium stearate will contain stearic acid and glycerin as impurities (as a minimum). When you by Ivory soap, which is equivalent to a natural grade sodium (or potassium) stearate, the vendor takes out all of the glycerin because that is sold at a much higher price. That's why home made soaps feel better on your skin, because that soap has some beneficial impurities like the glycerin still intact. ... felix