I'm getting mixed info on reloading cast bullets. The wisdom of old said don't drive a cast bullet over 1000 fps or you'll get into leading. Now I understand this is no longer the wisdom... can anyone clarify this for me? I'm looking to develop target and hunting loads with 210 and 240 grain cast bullets, is this possible. Any load and/or powder recommendations?

From the bullet weights,also the speed mentioned, looks like you're talking about revolver loads. The simple answer is yes, you can beat that 1000 fps without leading. You'll have to use a proper alloy, a good lube, and gas checked bullets, although it can be done with plain base too. Don't
over look the handgun you choose to shoot them from, that is if it's a revolver, that the cylinder throats are larger then the groove diameter of the barrel, that the forcing cone is smooth, and that the barrel is not crushed where it threads into the frame, making the bore tighter there thus sizing your bullet down smaller then the rest of the bore as it passes the constriction. Many casters like to temper their bullets by either dropping them fast as possible from the mould into a bucket of water that is a safe distance from your melting pot, or oven heating them and then dumping them in water. If you do that you should size and lube them immediately because as they age harden it's harder to size them and doing so takes away some of the hardening that you've accomplished by tempering them.

I can't prove this because all my reference materials are in another state, but if memory serves, a pamphlet I got from Wayne Gibbs right before H&G sold out to Ballisticast says that anything driven at <2000 fps requires no gas check, assuming sizing is proper. I have shot my plain based 295s out of my FA at 1800 without enough leading to worry about. Starmetal is spot on: sizing, alloy and lube are far more important than gas checks, for virtually all revolver and pistol loads. Additionally, nowadays gas checks are a significant cost consideration!

None of my handgun cast bullets are of the gas check type. They are too expensive nowadays and like Doubtless said, along with me, you don't need them really for a handgun. Target loads shouldn't be hot so they shouldn't be a problem. The hunting loads being hot wouldn't matter as you won't shooting that many of them while hunting, more while sighting the handgun in. Even though that doesn't mean they will lead if everything is paid attention too.

I didn't address your powder concerns. If you have longer barrels all the slower pistol powders would be the ones to look at. Many shooters have even found they didn't lose a lot using a slower powder in a short barrel. The faster powders would be better for the target loads. There are too many brands of powders to give you a specific one, plus they would only be my opinion and ones that I like.

Col, you don't specify what you are loading for, but I suspect it is a .44. Again, to fall directly in line with Starmetal, there are many powders out there, but if you are going to shoot hard cast 240-250s out of a .44, I really like AA #9. It looks like fine sand, meters incredibly well through a powder measure, and 18 grains behind a Lyman 429421 Keith hard cast (or similar) is tough medicine for just about anything you are going to hunt with a .44... If you want to back down to plinking, try 11 grains of AA #5. About 1100 fps, and none other than the late Finn Aagaard stated it was his "go-to" revolver load for Texas Hill Country whitetails. Tough on pigs, too!

I use jacketed bullet data for my 45-70s, 405 Winchester, 30-06 and 375 Whelen.
If your bullet is the correct size, made of heat treated wheel weights with a good lube, gas checked, as far as my experience goes cast and jacketed are interchangable.
Jim