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Mdl 94 30-30
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I finally went searching for a used 30-30, and came across what is tagged as a mid 70'd model 94. There is a bit of a patina on the action, but what I could see of the bore from the breech, and the muzzle look pretty good. The $150 tag was attractive as well. Anything I should be looking for in paticular, as I don't know a thing about lever actions.

Planned use is cast shooting, plinker loads with the 115 gr lee mold, and a 170 gr rf in the future.
 
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Paul, look in the "Shooting" section of http://www.castbullet.com There's two articles there on pawnshop Model 94 Winchesters.
 
Posts: 108 | Location: Northcentral Louisiana | Registered: 06 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Junior,

Thanks for the link. You have a great website, it's going to take me some time to read all the articles.

I sold some misc stuff on e-bay, so as soon as the funds arrive, a 30-30 will be following me home.
 
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Junior, nice write up on your Heart Attack 30-30. I wish I could find some of those $150 specials around here.
Could you put some small set screws in the stripped out holes and keep them inplace with a drop of locktight or epoxy? Or maybe drill and tap them to the next larger size and put set screws in for a finished look? I wonder if you drilled holes lengthwise in your wood butt stock, if you could get the weight down to the Ramline one.
 
Posts: 2924 | Location: Arkansas | Registered: 23 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Could you put some small set screws in the stripped out holes and keep them inplace with a drop of locktight or epoxy? Or maybe drill and tap them to the next larger size and put set screws in for a finished look? I wonder if you drilled holes lengthwise in your wood butt stock, if you could get the weight down to the Ramline one.




As the article stated, I cleaned out the holes and replaced the plug screws with new ones from Williams.

Yes, you could probably drill or hollow out the wood stock, but I bet going from high to low humidity would cause cracks. The Ram-Line stock was cheap and easy to install. I just wish they made the dang thang in something besides SWAT Team black. I'm seriously considering painting it olive drab. But, heck, the camo duct tape works fine.
 
Posts: 108 | Location: Northcentral Louisiana | Registered: 06 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Paul H,
If your intersted, I could e-mail you a portion of a large spreadsheet that I keep with my reloading data. I will send you the 30-30 data from reloads that I have used in my Model 94's. There will also be some T/C loads mixed in but they are all O.K. to interchange--at least there were with my rifles and Contender.

I had the best luck with 150's and 170's. The little Lee C309-113F really didn't shoot well in either the 94's or the Contender--all at 100 yards. At 50 yards they will stay in approximately 1.0 inch though.

So if you want a copy of the data, let me know. All loads were safe in my weapons, but use good judgement and refer to loading manuals as a crosscheck. Good-luck with your Model 94--I sure like mine...BCB
 
Posts: 212 | Location: WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
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I'm interested, my e-mail is in my profile.

I've only shot the 115 out of a .308 at 50 yds, but it would group about 1/2" for 5 shots. Actually I think I did try them at 100, but groups opened up to about 2". I'm just looking for something to head shoot grouse and take hares, and I think the 115 out of the 30-30 will do the job.

I'm thinking of getting the Lee 170 rf, and the 180 gr mold and making the 180 gr a flatpoint of say 190 gr.
 
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Quote:

Quote:

Could you put some small set screws in the stripped out holes and keep them inplace with a drop of locktight or epoxy? Or maybe drill and tap them to the next larger size and put set screws in for a finished look? I wonder if you drilled holes lengthwise in your wood butt stock, if you could get the weight down to the Ramline one.




As the article stated, I cleaned out the holes and replaced the plug screws with new ones from Williams.

Yes, you could probably drill or hollow out the wood stock, but I bet going from high to low humidity would cause cracks. The Ram-Line stock was cheap and easy to install. I just wish they made the dang thang in something besides SWAT Team black. I'm seriously considering painting it olive drab. But, heck, the camo duct tape works fine.




Junior. I just did up an early H&S Preciscion Fiberthane stock in a camo pattern. Rustoleum makes a sreies of flat paints expressly for camo jobs. They only had a fairly dark brown and a light tan on hand at Home depot where I bought mine. I painted the stock with the dark brown as the base and streaked it diagonally at about a 45 degree angle with the light tan. Now, if they can only get a flat green in stock, I can finish the job, but it sure looks mighty sharp already. I have about seven rifles in synthetic stocks and I've painted two so far. I'm going to try that paint on a Ramline stock next. The only one that painting might not work well on is a Butler Creek that I mounted a commercial Mauser on. A camo paint job would probably look a lot better than plain old olive drab.
I usually just leave my 30-30s alone, except for maybe putting a good receiver sight on them. My old eyeballs just don't work too well with regular open sights.
Paul B.
Paul B.
 
Posts: 2814 | Location: Tucson AZ USA | Registered: 11 May 2001Reply With Quote
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Paul, please post a pic or two of your camo stock.
 
Posts: 108 | Location: Northcentral Louisiana | Registered: 06 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Gads! I have no way of posting a picture. I can take a couple of snapshots and snail mail them to you if you want. Just E-mail me an address where you want them sent.
Paul B.
 
Posts: 2814 | Location: Tucson AZ USA | Registered: 11 May 2001Reply With Quote
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