Darned if I could not find the correct nose punch today [time to clean/straighten I guess].
Anyways my solution is simple and one I've used for awhile.

Take some tissue/kleenex whatever and wet a small quantity, squeezing excess moisture out. Chuck this into the punch and run a bullet down into the luber. That wet tissue forms a nice protective fitted cover for the slug. Works best when the sizing die is oversize and just accomplishing lubing and/or check seating. Pluck it out when your done for use on the intended bullet.

Aladin

I use a flat nose punch for all of my bullets with flat noses, with a bit of lube on the shank. I leave the shank loose in the ram to allow the nose punch to slide around to allow the bullet to center itself.
The second trick I've used is to get some of that sealing wax, thestuff for sealing letters and such. I heat the wax and drip it into a heated cleaned nose punch and then carefully set it down on the bullet nose. Bingo, a custom nose punch that lasts a long time and is easy to replace.
Jim

Pefect centering and alignment of "fudged" nose punches is hard to keep up with because of taking them out and putting them back. I have a trick or two I have tried to help with this problem.

I put a small white paint pencil mark on the front edge bevel of my ram to help me keep track of where the punches go rotation-wise. Then, if I am "fudging up" a punch with expoxy 2-part stick material I can mark the punch shoulder with a mating paint mark so I always put it back exactly the same way in the future.

Oil the nose of the cherry-picked for good size and perfect nose form cast bullet (already in perfect full seated position down inside the sizing die itself) and put a little dab of stiff 2 part epoxy stick material in the freshly cleaned oversized nose punch cavity and settle it down over the bullet nose, squeezing a little of the stiff epoxy out of the punch nose cavity out over the sides of the nose of the bullet. (I trim the ooze all off to even and flush later after it has set fully)

I leave the ram down for the full 2-3 hours it takes for the epoxy to set up real good, and then I paint pencil mark the ram-mating mark on the front of the punch shoulder so I can always put it back exactly where it is now.

This method generally results in the set screw "bite mark" hitting the punch shank the exact same place every time. Since the bullet was already completely engaged and perfectly centered in the die the epoxy nose form lines up "perfectly" each time with the sizing die cavity too.

Aladin, this does seem to be a very nice list. Do they do custom bullet molds over here yet? Do they have an organized place to post pictures of bullet designs, etc.? Are there any constrictions to discussion over here that would make the discussion of the design of a custom bullet a bad idea?

By the way, my e-name is Oldfeller, my real name is Kelly Alexander. I shoot cast bullets instead of jacketed stuff out of preference and like to participate in the design process of creating new cast bullet molds. I know Aladin from discussions on other lists and he mentioned this list a while back as a good one.

Appears he is very correct in that estimation.

Oldfeller