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Lube heaters
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Picture of James Kain
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I have the old style of lube o madic from RCBS.
I am looking to get a lube heater due to the fact that I sometimes get a bit too much lube coming out the sides. So I was told to fix that issue I need to heat the stuff. Blow torch works ok as a temp fix, but I need something that will work when I want it to. It also has to heat the lube up in a unheated shop that can reach our winter temps of close to -50*F.

Any advice, ideas, or opinions?
Thanks for any help!


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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First off, the reason you are getting lube around the sides is too much pressure and a bullet that is either too small for the sizer die or is out of round. Either of the two conditions will get lube up the side of the bullet. Don't use so much pressure on the pressure screw. All you want is enough to make the lube extrude onto the bullet.

And for heaters, get the Lyman universal. You may have to wait a bit for it to heat up, but it will work, I promise, and the thing is threaded for every sizer made, from Saeco to Star.

Hope this helps...
 
Posts: 4748 | Location: TX | Registered: 01 April 2005Reply With Quote
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That dose help thanks!

Now if my sizing die is out or round, oh I have some free parts coming to me from Lyman! The die cannot be much more then a year old now. Wink I think it it a pressure issue after talking about it on a thread sometime ago.

If the heater dosnt help I will call Lyman. The Lyman molly lube I use is quite stiff.
Thanks for the advice.


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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What are you loading for? For revolvers, soft sticky lube like Felix is best, no heat needed.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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30-06 and 6.5x55 currently. beer


Disabled Vet(non-combat) - US Army
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Hunter, trapper, machinest, gamer, angler, and all around do it your selfer.
Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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Lar's Carnauba Red is not as hard but still needs a heater when cold. I make model airplanes and found the heat gun to shrink covering works really well to heat the sizer. It gets to 400* and allows me to lube a pile of boolits. No danger of harming anything, just takes a little time to get everything warm.
These things are cheap too.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by bfrshooter:
Lar's Carnauba Red is not as hard but still needs a heater when cold. I make model airplanes and found the heat gun to shrink covering works really well to heat the sizer. It gets to 400* and allows me to lube a pile of boolits. No danger of harming anything, just takes a little time to get everything warm.
These things are cheap too.


Hum, that is a good idea, but when its -50*F lol it could take a while! Do you have it mounted so you dont have to hold it?

I wonder if there is a power savings difference between the heater and the heat gun? The universal heater seems to be a little bit more convenient for me too. But I like the idea of a heat gun. Maybe I will use that until I can pick up the heater.
Thanks!


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of Von Gruff
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I just use a heat gun as well. Only takes a few minutes and generally lets you get a whole lot of lubing done. The feel of the ratchet is my guide for when I need to re-heat. Wouldn't be bothered with base heater.

von Gruff.


Von Gruff.

http://www.vongruffknives.com/

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Posts: 2693 | Location: South Otago New Zealand. | Registered: 08 February 2009Reply With Quote
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I use Carnauba Red exclusively ... and the Lyman universal external heater with a Saeco and a Lyman luber. Works very well in the winter, but we sure don't get to anything like -50F!


Mike

--------------
DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ...
Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com
 
Posts: 6199 | Location: Charleston, WV | Registered: 31 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of James Kain
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As far as I m aware of we hadn't seen that cold sense I was in high school. That's 9 years I v been out. People keep blaming globe worming for all the extra snow, extreme temp's. I just sit back and tell them to look at history....

So for those reasons when trying to move the lube lol I bet I d have to fun a damn heat gun for a few hours Wink but I m just being sarcastic. It just dosnt seem all that efficient for me. Maybe now during the summer months but again in the winter I dotn know if it would work well.


Disabled Vet(non-combat) - US Army
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Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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The metal holds heat for a long time so once lube starts to flow, I can do a lot of boolits.
How can you work on boolits when it is that cold? Can't you do them in the house?
I hope it is not -50* in your home! jumping
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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My shop is in the barn, and I get bitched at if I bring this stuff in because "it stinks".
Besides you get used to it. Wink


Disabled Vet(non-combat) - US Army
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Hunter, trapper, machinest, gamer, angler, and all around do it your selfer.
Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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OH, NO, do I hear the word "HENPECKED" showing up? dancing
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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