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Re: Moly Coating Cast Bullets
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I tried some of the Lyman moly lube. Was messy and didn't notice any real improvement in accuracy. I even went so far as to add moly to Lee liquid alox. That experiment didn't show much either. Was using a 30.06 and 311332 and 311334 bullets for the test. Like was said no leading how ever. I only ran them in the 2200 FPS area though.
Mark
 
Posts: 210 | Location: Willamette Valley | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
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C1PNR,
Not enough difference for me to spend a lot of time working with the moly. Too much hassle getting the barrel clean for each test. Orygun
 
Posts: 210 | Location: Willamette Valley | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
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IMO using Lie-man moly lube isn't moly coating. The lube is crap too. Worse than that old NRA runny formula. Sure is lubes ok, but the mess... Jsss.

In the old Shooters threads I detailed moly coating by tumbling cast in rice with moly powder added. Worked ok-- seemed to help at the higher speeds. But you still have to lube the grooves for seal. You might get by with a good bore and throat fit sans the lube but it'd be on the edge. Talking now rifle velocities greater than 1600 fps for a reference.

I think for the factory and surplus military bores most of us shooten the old tried and true method is the most time effective method.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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I don't know much about moly coating, but.......



What about running the bullets into the lubersizer to fill the lube grooves and size the bullet, then moly coating them!

My thinking is, then only the lead that is bare will be coated with moly and the regular lube will be there for a seal!
 
Posts: 454 | Location: Russell (way upstate), NY - USA | Registered: 11 July 2003Reply With Quote
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Chuck coating first is simplier-- and then lubing in an oversized die. Myself I always size first IF I am, then heat treat and then process.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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