Paul H

Thanks for your interest.
I would like to find out which lubes would produce best groups in my pistols.
I understand it is feasible with your scoped Super Redhawk Ruger 480 7 /2 or 9 1/2 Barrel length, but in my case, I should work on a 1911, .40 S&W 5" barrel length first.

I could vary alloy hardness and lube. I have a lot of materials for homebrewing lube; beeswax, lithium grease, moly grease, vaseline, parafine, sodium stearate, castor oil, etc., but I can not get commercial lubes like LBT, RCBS,or others.
Currently I use beeswax, lard and a minute of moly poder, basically because this mix produce less smoke than others I tested.

Do you believe it is possible to find out significative differences changing lubes considering the 1911 has 5" barrel length and is not adjusted for accuracy ?

If it is feasible, where could I start with? any special lube recipe or component for working on?

Thanks for your help

BA Shooter

Carnauba is on sale at:

http://www.thesage.com/catalog/Specials.html#CarnaubaWax

8 ounce size would be plenty for playing around. Use about 1 teaspoon per "stick" of lube.

Use high heat on stove to melt with beeswax.

Use peanut oil as a solvent when minimizing smoke for indoor shooting.

felix

Waksupi, Long time no hear. Thanks for the duplex-black powder load, I've wanted to experiment with stuff like that for a long time. So far the best 100yd. groups are with the Lyman 375 gr. gas-check round nose. Don't remember the mould number right now. Shoots into 2.5 inches at 100 yds. I'm using 25-28 grs of H4227 and Winchester standard primers. I have access to a Rapine plain base mold but have not gotten the 405gr flat-nose to shoot yet. 550 grain boolits at sub-sonic velocities sounds real interesting, would this be called the 45-70 Whisper? I do hear you on the trans-sonic turbulence issue, it certainly affects airplanes so it must affect bullets.

May all of your BB's fly straight, regards from duke.

Hi Duke, I stick my nose in the door occasionally. Usually hang out at the Aimoo Cast Boolit room. Been traveling and working a lot.
I got onto the lower velocity loads out of comfort concerns. I could boost to higher velocities, but on a long string of competition shooting, the recoil was causing me to loose my concentration, and anticipating recoil. Not good for shooting form.
So I went back to the basics of the first Sharps I ever had, and worked on the simple slightly compressed theory. It worked in that rifle, and works in this one.
I've not seen any problems with the longer range targets with the bullet loafing along a couple hundred feet per secound less than what others are stoking them.

First of all, hello Felix, haven't been on any cast boolit boards for awhile and I'm glad to hear from you.

Yes, cast bullets are more fun, simply because you were more involved in the ammunition by actually making the bullet. When you put five cast boolits into a minute of angle group you have REALLY accomplished something, not so with factory made jacketed bullets.

I'm currently experimenting with an Italian made replica Sharps 1874 in 45-70 of course. It shows promise, but is not going to be an easy ride to accuracy, but I know it is in there. We have three boolit molds to experiment with, gas-checks, wads, filler, and all of the powders now available, lots of fun stuff to experiment with. If I was only shooting jacketed bullets in this rifle, I would already be bored to death.

Best regards from Nevada Duke.

Nevada Duke - I have a Pedersoli Sharps, that shoots into about 5/8" real regular at a hundred. For a no fuss - no muss load, try this out;

WW Cases
Federal 215 Magnum primer
5 gr. 4227
40 gr. 3 F GOEX
one LPDE plastic wad
Emmert's Lube
560 Postell

This is slightly compressed, and loads to 2.734 OAL in my rifle, and shoots at 1100 fps. This keeps you sub-sonic, so helps prevent those 700 yard collywobbles people run into trying to push them faster.

And yes, cast are MUCH more fun!

BAShooter
I'll have to be like Sargent Schulze from Hogan's Heros, 'I know nothing, I know nothing at all!' as far as the chemical components and particulars of Johnson's Paste Wax.
I would suggest using a double boiler to melt the Johnson's wax in.
Jim

Thanks Arkypete, good tip for starting with pure wax

Johnson`s paste wax is available in supermarkets here, I will try it.

I will heat it at very low temperature, for evaporating solvent and avoiding catch fire.

If it works better than my current lube,under an accuracy point of view,a second step could be adding parafine to solidify . I suppose Johnsons wax is a "non polar", mineral, substance and so is parafine.

BA Shooter

BA, go to www.castpics.net, go to the research and data section and there is a wealth of info on the Felix lube along with how to make it and variations.