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one of us |
I guess I took your post the wrong way, sorry "In case of a thunderstorm stand in the middle of the fairway and hold up a 1 iron, not even God can hit a 1 iron"............Lee Trevino. | |||
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one of us |
No offence taken. How DOES one get the smiley faces into posts? - I STILL can't get them to work, despite several attempts. Internet software isn't my long suit .... | |||
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one of us |
When you reply to a post at the top left corner you will see a smiley face, left click it, and then pick which one you want to use and left click "In case of a thunderstorm stand in the middle of the fairway and hold up a 1 iron, not even God can hit a 1 iron"............Lee Trevino. | |||
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one of us |
Thanks for the assistance - now to see what happens: Hmmm. A colon and a capital D - I got that before and thought I must have done something wrong. Wish this software provided a 'preview' option, as older versions did - then you knew what your post was going to look like. It seeems to me that much of the disagreement that took place in this thread really came back to differing definitions of when something is - or is not - an acceptable replacement or substitute for an original part. Some posters obviously feel that a replacement part MUST go 'straight in' with no modifications, while others feel that a part which is BASICALLY right but needs some minor changes is quite acceptable. Being an avid DIY type myself, I tend to fall into the latter category, but I can understand the other viewpoint, too. If the screws in my son's Optilock rings do 'crap-out' some time in the future, I will most likely replace them with some non factory original screws, even if this does mean turning down the heads and shortening the shanks to suit. Can anyone answer the two questions I asked previously? Is it the stainless or the blued steel Optilck screws - or both - which are said to be way too soft? and: What screws and bolts are generally used in Asian and European-made machinery, etc. imported into the US? Metric or inch sizes? | |||
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One of Us |
Actually I find it amazing that Sako has not fixed the screw problem on the rings.The worst batch I saw was in 1982-25% would loose the head when tightened gently for the first time.This has been going on for 30 years so I just replace them with good screws and forget it. Weird that this simple problem still continues to this day - it seems to me to be a simple matter to fix especially considering the quality of the rings. Glenn | |||
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Moderator |
I mentioned this "problem" to a Sako rep once and apparently the screws are meant to be softer than the mounts...The idea is that when some ham fisted Guy the Gorrilla type over tightens them, the threads strip on the screw rather than in the mounts... Personally, I've never had a problem with my Optilocs, but have always been particularly careful being aware of the issue.. | |||
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One of Us |
djpaintles gave great advice. I ordered from Brownells 2.5MM bits for their screw driver set. You can apply downward pressure and really torque them tight without stripping. Brownells 4MM fits the base screw nicely and also does a good job. Best 6 bucks I ever spent! I wish I got them about two dozen screws ago!!! | |||
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one of us |
LJS, I'm glad they worked for you too! If you don't mind you might post the Brownells part #'s since I'm not where I can get to mine at the moment..................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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One of Us |
Sorry guys! I shouild have posted the part numbers earlier. 2.5MM (ring screws) 080-118-025 4MM (base screw) 080-118-040 | |||
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