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Scope Mounting for full elevation adjustment??
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I would like to mount my scope on my CZ527 16mm dovetail and my Warne 30mm QD rings so that I will have the full range, bottom to top, of elevation adjustment after a 100 yard zero. I have never done this and would like to try it. I know that usually you need a tapered base. Not sure, but would guess it tappers down toward the front, or barrel end. What are my options, how should I do this?
 
Posts: 157 | Location: Kenosha, WI | Registered: 25 February 2005Reply With Quote
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Don't know the mfg. of your scope nor the caliber, but you are correct in that the tapered base elevates the "eye piece" end of the scope. In reality by doing this you have raised the rear of the scope in relationship to the bore/barrel of the rifle and therefore you will be elevating/raising the muzzle to gain that elevation. Lot depends on the scope and it's range of elevation adj. available. Check the specs of the optics and most will state what that range, no of minutes, is and you can get an idea then as to how it will plot out.
Since you are using 30mm rings you may have as much as 80-100 moa elevation adjustment in some 30mm tube scopes?? If you are using 100yds as a base line and go up or down from there you may have problems getting less than 100yd for using the elevated base(s)there is no more lower adj. left in the scope. If you know your "come ups" for the caliber you are shooting, you can determine if the scope/base set up will give you what you want by counting clicks/minutes for the different ranges. Rule of thumb would be 3moa/per 100yds of range out to 700(does not apply after 700yds.) If you are on at 100 then it would require some 12 clicks/100yds(assuming .25moa adj.) 6x12=72clicks or 18min. of elevation. Again, don't know the caliber, but if it is 223, 243,308,'06 above data will get you started.
 
Posts: 1328 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 19 January 2009Reply With Quote
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I guess I did not make my question clear. I don't want to know how much elevation adj. I will have; I want to know how to physically mount my scope (any scope) so that I get the maximum (whatever that is, or ends up to be is fine) elevation adjustment out of it. I am asking, if I have a cz527 action and Warne QD rings; what can I do to mount a scope to achieve, my goal? In other words....do I need a tapered base, can I get a tapered base for that action? Can I shim the scope in the rings? Can I taper the rings? Can I taper the receiver? Can I use what I have or do I need something else? What is the part number of the base I need to do this? Are there 10 degree or 15 degree offset bases and what one will work better. What are my scope mounting options on a cz527 action to provide maximum elevation adjustment out of a scope? If nothing is easily available or achievable, I will not bother, I will just use what is available on the scope that I have mounted on the rifle now. BTW….the caliber is a 300 whisper, the bullet is a 240 gr. SMK @ 1060 ft/sec., the scope is a Weaver classic extreme (30mm tube) 2.5 to 10X, 50mm.
 
Posts: 157 | Location: Kenosha, WI | Registered: 25 February 2005Reply With Quote
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I'm sure others will be able to answer better than I, but I would look into the Burris signature rings with the inserts. Obviously, this isn't the best solution since you have rings already, but the inserts allow you, in theory, to center your reticle roughly without using the elevation in your scope.
 
Posts: 41 | Registered: 30 June 2008Reply With Quote
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For your situation, I would get a tapered base machined to exact Picatinny Mil. Std. 1913 specification rail dimensions. I would not buy a picatinny base unless it states that it meets those specs. There are numerous company's that make them. Badger is one of my favorite, but Ken Farrel Co. and Nightforce makes them and there are others (try google). 20 moa and 40 moa tapered bases are common. However, I am not sure who makes them for CZ. You will have to do some research. You can also get them in two piece bases.

You also say you want to sight it in for 100 yards. I sight my 338 WM in at 200 yards. There is about 2" difference from 100 to 200 yards. I don't know the ballistics of your rifle/ammo and the the longest range you are trying to shoot. That will help determine your needs. With a 10 power scope, I can't imagine trying to shoot really tight groups past 300 yards.
 
Posts: 503 | Registered: 27 May 2007Reply With Quote
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OK, with more info, can give a bit more input.
To begin with, a 30cal. bullet 200plus grain in weight, velocity which is sub sonic, I believe you will find 300 yds. a stretch. Will it make it, of course, but not what you would call a long range set up. To gain more elevation the simplest way for your situation would be as suggested by using those rings which have inserts in various degrees which can elevate the rear of the scope to gain elevation beyond the normal amount provided by the scope itself. It would be possible to perhaps shim in various thickness to also gain elevation, but do not know if you can shim the scope bases you are using?? If it is a dovetail/grooved receiver not sure how you would shim that set up?? Call the mfg. of various scope base mfg.'s and discuss with them and usually they will be most helpful. If you can install an elevated long range base as suggested, that would help. Check out www.usoptics.com for they also have quality bases you would need.


Good luck with your project.

martin
 
Posts: 1328 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 19 January 2009Reply With Quote
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MFD.....200 & 300 yards is long range for this cartridge! I may need all the elevation I can get from my scope, just to push a bullet 200 yards. I have not shoot past 100 yet but maybe this week. The drop maybe 3 or 4 feet at 300 yds. and I have already used alot of my scopes elevation to get to 100 yds. I may never shoot past 200 yards, so it may not be an issue.
 
Posts: 157 | Location: Kenosha, WI | Registered: 25 February 2005Reply With Quote
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Hello,
Quick way to tell since you do not have the ballistics of the round, is to place target at 200yds., and then bore sight to see if the scope will provide needed elevation. As I am sure you know, place the rifle on bag/rest, remove bolt, line up bore with bullseye, adjust elevation/windage accordingly and you will then know for sure. Saves a lot of valuable ammo.
Hope it works well for you.

martin
 
Posts: 1328 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 19 January 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Quick way to tell since you do not have the ballistics of the round, is to place target at 200yds., and then bore sight to see if the scope will provide needed elevation. As I am sure you know, place the rifle on bag/rest, remove bolt, line up bore with bullseye, adjust elevation/windage accordingly and you will then know for sure. Saves a lot of valuable ammo.
Hope it works well for you.
I don't see how that will work,as it is line of sight, no bullet drop is taken into account. I must be missing something here.
 
Posts: 157 | Location: Kenosha, WI | Registered: 25 February 2005Reply With Quote
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Hello,
The "picture" you see looking through the bore is line of sight, but you are adjusting your scope to compensate for the flight of the bullet, and by doing so you are zeroing your rifle for that given distance. When you adjust your scope/sight up or down, you are actually moving an internal "tube" which reflects the adjustment you make, be it elevation or windage. If the sight were a metalic/peep, etc. the slide on the peep sight travels up or down and you can bore sight the same as described. You are actually elevating the muzzle to line up with the "sight picture" if you will. Might want to try it at 100 yards w/ say black bullseye type target, 9" paper pie plate painted black or whatever visible color you choose is a good cheap target and easy to pick up with your eye.
If you shoot and see a bullet hole in the target and while the rifle is on the bag/rest and you adjust your scope crosshair to line up with that bullet hole, you are sighted in at that distance. I don't practice that, but some do. "easypeasy, quick and easy..." Give it a try at the range, but be aware this is only for getting on the target and not intended to be a "fine adjustment" but that can then be done easily since you are on target.
 
Posts: 1328 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 19 January 2009Reply With Quote
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Really you'd want an adjustable mount so you can center the Crosshair then zero the gun at 100 yards without adjusting the scope.
And make sure the scope is truly in line with the bore.
But you want to zero at a range that will give you an easy to remember trajectory, as that 240gr subsonic will make a nice rainbow in the sky.


"When doing battle, seek a quick victory."
 
Posts: 4739 | Location: London England | Registered: 11 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Not familiar w/ adjustable mount?? Why would they put elevation and windage drums on the scope if you were not supposed to adjust the scope?? If you are referring to external adjustable mounts as in Unertl or old Lyman style, but don't believe that would be found on a rifle as being described.
 
Posts: 1328 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 19 January 2009Reply With Quote
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