My rifle has a 25moa base on it. I had to adjust the elevation nearly all the way down to hit a breadbox at 1,000 yards. I had to use the mil-dot one up from the crosshair to hit same breadbox at 600 yards. Anything closer than that was unhittable-- couldn't see the target in the scope to even aim at it.

So I bought a set of those Burris rings with the elliptical inserts in them. I put the +10 insert in the bottom of the front ring and the -10 in the bottom of the rear ring. Per the instructions, I put the -10 in the top of the front ring and the +10 in the top of the rear ring. What elevation do I now have? I think I have reduced the slope through the scope's axis to 15moa. A friend says I have reduced it to 5moa. Who is right? I have yet to shoot the rifle with the new rings...

You dont list your bore C/L to base hight or the barrel length.

quote:

You don't list your bore C/L to base hight or the barrel length.

I didn't think those would matter. What I wanted to know was if I had "rotated" the scope upward around an axis located approximately where the turrets are by +10 moa or +20 moa. The directions state to use an opposite pair in each ring-- never to use two +10 or -10 inserts in the same ring together. So I think I raised the scope's long axis by +10. That is my question...

with a caption like that, you didn't really ex pect an answer did you?

quote:

Anything closer than that was unhittable-- couldn't see the target in the scope to even aim at it.

Butchloc, agreed! I am not literate enough to answer, especially as I don't even understand the above quote!
Peter.

It is impossible to answer your question without knowing the distance between your scope rings. The closer together they are, the more you have tilted the axis of the scope as compared to the axis of the bore, and vice-versa.

How's that for a "literate" answer?

Support the current POTUS and call me in the morning.

If we can assume 1/3 feet between the rings, then .010" up on one end and .010" down on the other end is .060"/ foot = 18 moa

If it is 1/2 feet between rings, then it is 12 moa.

Just to specify, this may not be very literate.

From what you said, it sounds like you pointed the scope upward, meaning the objective lens is higher than the ocular lens. This would make your point of impact lower, which it seems like you want. How much in a measurement of minute of angle is a little complicated, but for some precision, I would post your questioin on the web forum 'Long Range Hunters'.

quote:

If we can assume 1/3 feet between the rings, then .010" up on one end and .010" down on the other end is .060"/ foot = 18 moa

If it is 1/2 feet between rings, then it is 12 moa.

Thanks, tnekk...

Get a bigger breadbox and don't worry about it.

Hello,
Don't know which/what optics you are using, but since you are using an elevated/long range base the scope itself apparently does not have enough elevation available to reach 1000 yards, not a lot of them do in fact, hence the use of "ramped base." Let me suggest you mount the scope in normal fashion, not on long range base, establish 100yd zero, and then count the "come ups" necessary to reach 1000yds. Not sure of your caliber, but assuming it is in the 308,"06,etc. category, you are going to need some 36 to 42moa elevaton to impact at 1000yds.
A typical sporting rifle scope in typical ring/base set up will consume fair amount of elelvation from bottom to get on at 100yds, as much as 15-20plus moa. Most such sporting rifle scopes will have something in the range of 50-60plus total elevation adjustment from bottom. As mentioned if you have already used say some 20 plus moa just to get on at 100, you have as it is often said, "ran out of scope..." You need to set the scope/rifle up as mentioned at 100yds, count the number of clicks/min. to get on, then turn the elevation drum up to simulate the come ups an additonal 40moa(1/4min adj. would require some 160clicks)and most likely will top out short of the required "come ups." You can then determine very close as to just how much raise you need to add to the scope to reach the desired elevation. 20moa base will most likely be enough to do it. So called long range scopes will have a total elevation range of more than 90moa to begin with and some even more and do not require additonal bases/elevation to reach out there. If you do your come ups even with the sope off the rifle, counting clicks, you will know in advance if the scope will require additional help. Keep in mind that the caliber you are using can alter these adjustments and if you were shootig a 284/6.5 the elevation adj. will be much less than say 308 class of caliber. Don't know if this helps or hurts, but method above is practiced by quite a few long range shooters. Might alwo consider tossing the socpe altogether and putting on a good rear peep sight and globe front and really bcome frustrated @ 1000yds. When the day comes that you outshoot the scope shooters at 1000yds with your "iron sights" that is indeed a glorious day plus you don't have to pay for the beer and pizza that evening!! Good luck.

You didn't need the 25MOA base at all! You could have zeroed the rifle with NORMAL BASE!! You tried to make things complicated for yourself!! If you find that you run out of vertical adjustment, a little bit of wisdom here. A sliver of aluminum from a Coke can or Miller Lite can is .004 or 4 thousandths or 4" at 100 yards. GHD