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What scope mounts would you use?
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Picture of GSSP
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New scope (Nikon 4.5-14-40 Buckmaster w/ side focus and mildot reticle for my birthday).

Old Conetrol mounts = bopping me betwixt the eyes.

What new mounts/rings would you use to move it up.

It's sitting 12-1/8" from the recoil pad. Realize I need 13". 30-06 Ackley Improved shooting 180's at upto 3050 fps.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/GSSP/Nikon4.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/GSSP/Nikon4-1.jpg
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Utah | Registered: 01 June 2004Reply With Quote
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www.scopebases.com

These are pretty nice and a bit less massive than some other picatinny styles.

Other than that, look in Brownells, they have tons of picatinny rails and rings. Badger’s are good, Lightforce USA, Farrell, etc. Light force also makes two piece bases with an extra cross slot that might give you a enough forward adjustablity to help you out.
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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Hey GSSP

That looks like a Remington so I would use a dual dovetail with a reversible front base. That would allow you to put that front dovetail about the middle of the front gap. Then get the extension rings. You will have to order 2 set of these unless you are better than me and can find dual dovetail 1" extension rings matte medium. Seems like they ought to make them but I can't find them on Midway, Midsouth or Graf's. Or you could order one of those and get a regular set of dual dovetails and use one on the front.

You can put the extension ring on the rear and point the extension forward and that should land you between the turret and ocular.

That would allow you to move that scope forward. And you will have another set of matte medium standard rings.


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Posts: 2750 | Location: Houston, Tx | Registered: 17 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Ditto on what Woods said!


Dennis
Life member NRA
 
Posts: 1191 | Location: Ft. Morgan, CO | Registered: 15 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Gentlemen,
As I sit here in front of the Blue Man Group entrance of the Venetian Hotel and Casino in Vegas (only place I could get wireless), I've read some good stuff here.

I'm trying to absorb all I can, research all and I've yet to make a decision.

I like the idea of a Picatinny rail for the, what seems to be, total adjustability, but hate the idea of a bridge potentially obscuring access to the loading port.

The Leupold option seems extremly strong with the dove tail and Torx screw system.

Either way, I fear misalignment of rings equallying damage to the scope.

Anyone feel I should invest in a scope mounting kit of some flavor? One which would include a scope alignment and/or lapping kit?

Maybe a touch of Loctite Blue?

I head home tomorrow and will have a 6-hour drive to contemplate this all.

Thanks!
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Utah | Registered: 01 June 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by GSSP:

The Leupold option seems extremly strong with the dove tail and Torx screw system.

Either way, I fear misalignment of rings equallying damage to the scope.

Anyone feel I should invest in a scope mounting kit of some flavor? One which would include a scope alignment and/or lapping kit?

Maybe a touch of Loctite Blue?



GSSP, seems like a lot of money to spend on an alighment kit like a Wheeler unless you mount a lot of scopes or switch them around a lot. I have one in 30mm and did not find them useful enough to get one in a 1". I just use a long screwdriver and tighten the rings down on the handle tight, then align the shank down the barrel (do the rear first).

Just remember when you open the package of rings to keep everything in exactly the orientation it comes out of the package. Those rings are made and then cut in half so you want the top and bottom to be a pair. After the rings are mounted if the scope will fit in the bottom halves without forcing then the scope rings are pretty much aligned.

I don't believe in lapping.

Never use locktite on screws! thumbdown I never had a torx screw get loose if tightened properly and sooner or later you may want to change something.


____________________________________
There are those who would misteach us that to stick in a rut is consistency - and a virtue, and that to climb out of the rut is inconsistency - and a vice.
- Mark Twain |

Chinese Proverb: When someone shares something of value with you and you benefit from it, you have a moral obligation to share it with others.

___________________________________
 
Posts: 2750 | Location: Houston, Tx | Registered: 17 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by woods:
....Never use locktite on screws!.... I never had a torx screw get loose if tightened properly and sooner or later you may want to change something.
Should be no problem using blue. It will always come loose with ordinary hand tools. The red stuff is the "permanent" stuff. It requires heat to be loosened.
 
Posts: 513 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Ok Woods,

No kit, no loctite and no lapping.

Now, I just need to find the Leupold bases as Midway is out of stock.

Alan
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Utah | Registered: 01 June 2004Reply With Quote
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woods is 100% correct about NOT using Loctite on scope base or ring screws.

If using good clean screws being screwed into good clean threaded holes, a very slight amount of fine machine oil on the threads is all that is needed to hold the screws in place.

Loctite is a great product for certain applications, but scope base/ring screws are not one of those applications.

Ask the techs at Leupold about the tests they did years ago using different products and procedures for installing base and ring screws.
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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Here is what I used.

Ken Farrell alum picatinny 1-pc base. Ken milled an extra groove for me; it's the front one, over the rear of the action opening.

Also, Tactical Precision Sys alum Low rings.

Set up weighs the same as my Conetrol "steel" 2-pc rings and bases.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/GSSP/LowTPSringsKenFarrellbaseclose.jpg

This is what the rifle is doing at 300 yds.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/GSSP/3.jpg
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Utah | Registered: 01 June 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by GSSP:
I like the idea of a Picatinny rail for the, what seems to be, total adjustability, but hate the idea of a bridge potentially obscuring access to the loading port.

I hated the idea of a Picatinny rail for many more reasons until I finally gave in and tried one. The strength, durability, placing your scope exactly where you want it, being able to remove and install the scope in about 10 seconds (with the right rings of course), etc, won me over for good. It's hard to live with anything else now. Wink

My first recommendation is http://seekinsprecision.com/default.asp . I've been very impressed with his stuff and I'm gradually replacing my Badger, etc, stuff with it. Lightweight aluminum....7075-T6, very strong aluminum with beefy designs....
 
Posts: 920 | Location: Mukilteo, WA | Registered: 29 November 2001Reply With Quote
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I have ~100 rifles with Weaver bases.
I have a Garand and an Enfield No4 with S&K mounts.
I have plenty of Redfield/Leupold rings and mounts in the junk box that I took off rifles.

Some guy on the internet sent me a ring lapping tool.
Silly object!
I glass bed the mounts to be parallel to the bore.
My rings are always aligned and the first shot is on the paper when a scope is in the middle of the windage and elevation adjustments.

That has to be done with a bore sighter in semi auto rifles. That is not as easy.
 
Posts: 9043 | Location: on the rock | Registered: 16 July 2005Reply With Quote
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