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Currently have a pair of Nikon Monarch ATB's 10X42. They were my first pair of real binoculars. I am looking to upgrade and am looking for some advice. My price range can extend to the range of the Euro glasses. (SWAROVSKI EL) I hunt whitetail in the midwest and elk in Montana with hopes to get to Alaska before I get too old. 1. Is there a significant difference in going from a mid range pair like the new Nikon Monarch X to the Nikon EDG's? 2. With the Euro glasses am I paying more for the name or are they just better. I know they seem to maintain more of there value. 3. Anyone have and experience with the Cabela Euro glasses? or Leuplod Gold Ring HD's? or Zeiss Conquest? 4. If I spend $2000 on binoculars am I done buying binoculars for my lifetime? 5. I know I should be happy with any of the mentioned glasses, but then I should have been happy with my 1st 3006. As my wife points out often I dont seem to be satisfied easily. 6. Thoughts on manification? Thinking 10X | ||
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Yes with the top brands you will be paying for brand recognition, and yes, the top brands do build better optics (law of diminishing returns)!
From a quality point of view you could buy something cheaper than that, and never need to look back. If you take good care of your optics (no shirt tails to remove dust or grime from lenses!) they will take care of you for a lifetime. Whether you can stop yourself wanting another toy in the future is a different question....
I prefer 8x for larger FOV, greater field of depth and easier hold. But a lot of people like 10x. This store gets new deals pretty much year round - in particular after the big shows are done and demo models come onto the market. Quality is excellent, and you can pick up some amazing deals on 1st rate optics. I normally pick a good deal rather than worry about whether Zeiss is better than Leica is better than Swaro... The 3 top brands all produce outstanding optics, and you would only know the difference if you had them side by side - which you won't have when you go hunting... http://www.cameralandny.com/optics/site.pl?page=40261 http://www.cameralandny.com/optics/site.pl?page=40028 http://www.cameralandny.com/optics/site.pl?page=40293 http://www.cameralandny.com/op...zeiss.pl?page=524521 http://www.cameralandny.com/op...zeiss.pl?page=524522 http://www.cameralandny.com/demos-swarovski.html - mike ********************* The rifle is a noble weapon... It entices its bearer into primeval forests, into mountains and deserts untenanted by man. - Horace Kephart | |||
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You sound like a guy determined to spend some money. No problem with that, just be sure to get what you really want. I won't even begin to get into the models you should look at. I'll just say that you really should go to a large retailer where you can compare the glasses to one another. Since good optical glass and coatings are relatively cheap these days, the difference in top drawer binoculars and "prety good" instruments is in the construction, not so much in the optics. The single most important feature of a binocular is the simple necessity of having both barrels pointed at the same friggin place (proper collimation). You would be surprised how many high-priced models seem to overlook this final adjustment before their product leaves the factory. Almost everyone's binoculars (and scopes) are "colored" these days. By "colored", I mean that the glass is treated to slightly shift the image away from true color toward highlighting mostly the red end of the spectrum. This causes neophytes to exclaim "how much brighter!" a strong-shifted glass is compared to a truer (non-shifted) glass. So, be sure that you are able to step outside the store, preferably in good sunlight, where you can look at a variety of targets up to several hundred yards away. The more you look, the more likely you are to select a glass that is un-shifted or shifted only slightly because you will begin to notice the color abberation. Appearing "bright" is no substitute for providing the best resolution. Good luck with your search. I suspect you will find that if you discount brand, price, and hype that you will find an instrument that feels and and performs best for you. It may or may not be the most expensive glass in the store, but after all, you're looking for performance, not glory, I assume. | |||
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Pksman, Do you own a good quality rangefinder? If not, I'd suggest you look at the Leica Geovids. Heck, even if you do, I'd still suggest the Geovids to combine equipment (one less thing to carry!) Call Doug at Cameraland New York before 12-31-09 and take advantage of the $350.00 Leica rebate. You can get brand new in the box Leica 8x42 Geovids for $1,649.99 - the $350.00 Leica rebate, for a net price of $1,299.99. Top quality glass and rangefinder all in one! | |||
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There are some good deals going right now. Swarovski is coming out with a new series of EL's to be announced at the shot show and are closing out the older ones at some pretty good prices. Zeiss FL's are also outstanding and I've seen great deals on those from Doug also. The Leica Geovids are very good but optically just a slight step behind EL's, FL's and Trinovids (yes I have used them in the Field side by side with EL's). Some find the combo of a rangefinder and bino's to be the answer. I prefer a separate rangefinder that I can use with other different pairs of bino's. I prefer a 7 or 8x for tighter cover and a 10x + for more open spaces. If I were buying my first pair I might just go with the 8.5 EL's instead of the 10x's that I have. The 10x's are a little overpowered for bow-hunting, but I did see Elk in the tree's at over a mile with them. So if you hunt mostly open go 10x mostly woods 7 or 8x. And if you're like me you won't be done spending money on glass for life. You'll enjoy having superior optics so much that you'll find excuses to have other complentary pairs later. I could be happy with any of the Zeiss FL's, Swaro EL's or Leica Ultravids. If I were you I'd buy whichever I could find the best deal on. I've done a good bit of business with Doug at Cameraland and HIGHLY recommend them for great prices and service, don't forget to check with them!............................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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Although what Stonedcreek says is true, I contend there is alot of good glass for the daylight hours but only a few for the low-light hours. I currently have some Swaro porro prisms and Windriver Pinnacles and Minox HGs. All are 10x. I just got the Minox and have not used them in the field yet, but in some late evening testing, I think the Minox are better than the others. The Pinnacles are no slouch either, just not much field of view as the Swaros and Minox. IMHO The Swarovski are good but way over rated! If you are interested I bought my Minox from Cameraland for $607 - shipped. reg. $1100- I think. Must be a model closeout. "The right to bear arms" insures your right to freedom, free speech, religion, your choice of doctors, etc. ....etc. ....etc.... -----------------------------------one trillion seconds = 31,709 years------------------- | |||
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I second Buster. Consider the Leica Geovids. I have the 10 x, and my hunting buddy has a 8 x. We’re both very satisfied. Optics is really good and having just one instrument for ranging and glassing makes life a lot easier. The European brands are worth the extra money. You won’t make a mistake buying a Leica, Zeiss or Swarovski. Will you be done buying binoculars for life? Don’t know, it did not work out like that for me... My wife got hold of my Leica to look at some bird or another. This led to her setting an ultimatum: Either I get her a pair of binos with similar quality optics, or she “appropriates” mine. I just got her a set of Zeiss Victory’s for Xmas to settle that dispute. | |||
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If you want the all in one the Leicas are the way to go. I have a friend who has a pair and loves them. I have anither friend that was in the same predicament as you. I took him to Gander and let him compare Leica, Zeiss and Swarovski. He now owns A Swaro 10x42 SLC. I have a pair of Swaros SLC 10x42 and 8x30. I think they are the best value for the money in a high end set of binos. That being said, you need to go compare side by side. I looked at a set of Minox at Cabela's in Winnipeg on a recent hunting trip. I didn't have a Leica, Zeiss or Swaro to compare against, but wasn't sold on them. Minox has a lot of different models, maybe I didn't get the good ones as I am not familiar with the line. All the good ones will work fine for daylight, but as Rae59 says, you separate the men from the boys when using them in low light conditions (dawn & dusk). Doug at Cameraland carries Ziess,Leica, Swar and Minox and he will give you a great price if you tell him you are a member of AR. Good luck | |||
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Guys, Thanks for all the good advice. I have another trip to Bass Pro to compare products again then a call to Doug is in order. As someone said this is suppose to be fun and it really is. | |||
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Pksman, check your PMs Thanks Paul "Diligentia - Vis - Celeritas" NRA Benefactor Member Member DRSS | |||
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I sale a wide variety of binoculars. If you have the money to spend i would strongly recommend the german optics. Your not paying for brand recognition. You will have much clearer more vivid color. Dawn and Dust will also have more light. And yes it is a LIFETIME purchase. Swarovski has a lifetime warrenty. I send many of my customers binos in to just have them cleaned every 5-10 years at no charge. I sell mostly 10x42's, my bow hunters typically buy the 8x42 mainly for there size. I promise you'll be satisfied! | |||
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Swarovski is Austrian. How would you like for someone to say that you are from Oklahoma? | |||
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Like most he would take it as a compliment! .................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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Austrians have the best pr department. Everybody thinks Hitler was German and Beethoven was Austrian. | |||
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I am given to understand that there is a certain shot sometimes taken at big game which is called, in some quarters, the "Texas Heart Shot". Curiously, this is the same shot that we in Texas refer to as the "Oklahoma Brain Shot". | |||
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To enter this thread late and maybe not offer the right info. Check your magnification and exit pupil (objective/magnification=exit pupil). For instance 7x35 is very common so is 10x50 (both have exit puil measurements of 5 mm), but a 7x50 (exit pupil of 7 mm) is used on deck for watch standing because it gathers more light and provides better detail. To second or third the recommendation, I've used the Geovids and wish I could afford a pair of my own. A bad day at the range is better than a good day at work. | |||
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Good one S-Creek!!!!!!!!! "The right to bear arms" insures your right to freedom, free speech, religion, your choice of doctors, etc. ....etc. ....etc.... -----------------------------------one trillion seconds = 31,709 years------------------- | |||
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I too am a Leica Geovid user and lover, even though they are a little heavier. Mine are the 8 power, not steady enough for 10's. The rangefinder is one of the best available. These binos even did well at a Van Morrison concert. Regards Greg | |||
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Zeiss, Leica and Swarovski make the best binoculars. You really can't go wrong with any of their top of the line models. As others have said, the best method is to try them out before you buy. Mike Wilderness is my cathedral, and hunting is my prayer. | |||
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1. No 2. They are better in low light conditions and rugged use. 3. Zeiss Conquest experience, 10x30 luv them. 4. Yes 5. Ok. Nothing wrong adding QUALITY binos. 6. 10x for this pair. | |||
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Yes. The Euro glass that Cabela's sells is made by Meopta. I own a pair of Meopta 7x42 binox, which are the same quality as the Cabela's binox, only mine are low power. Also have a pair of Swarovski 7x42 SCL's, with SwaroBrite. Both are very close in image quality, and the Meopta's are about $800, as opposed to the Swaro's that cost $1300. For me, 10X is too much to hold steady free hand, and I think that 7x, or 6x is better. But, if you use a tripod, the 10x, or higher power binox are great. We hunt the swamps here, so no need for high power binox. | |||
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