Any tips on the scope slipping inside the rings. All screws are super tight.
Gun is a Howa 1500 in 338 Win Mag w/ 2 piece bases, weaver style rings with a Leupold scope. Scope has shifted backwards enough to lock the power ring against the scope ring.
TIA, Dennis

Lap the rings to get better contact. Another possibility is crap rings.

you could try rings for a magnum air rifle scope..... i had trouble with the scope slipping on my rws model 34 but i think i got rings with the scope i got for it and my slippage stopped.........

just a thought............................

The rings I'm using now are cheapies. I think I'm going to try a new set of rings.
Thanks, Dennis

Replace your rings with a set of the Burris Signature rings with the polymer inserts.. Your scope will make 100% contact and NEVER move.

Your rings are the problem. Replace them with some rings for Weaver bases from either Burris or Millett. I'm old school and prefer a metal-on-metal fit, but if you want to use the rubber ducky insert rings they'll work, too.

I have a .338 Win mag that wears a Leupold VX3 2.5x8x36. Never had any problem with ring slippage. I use Leupold dual dovetail mounts with Burris signature rings. Great combination.

quote:

Originally posted by Pa.Frank:
Replace your rings with a set of the Burris Signature rings with the polymer inserts.. Your scope will make 100% contact and NEVER move.

+1. Hard to beat these.

I have a Leupold scope in Ruger rings on my Ruger #1 338 WM. I lap my rings for a little better contact. Have never had one move, all the way up to 458 Lott. Alaska Arms QD rings recommend a friction type tape on the inside of their rings.

I was advised to coat the rings with liquid electricians tape by NECG. worked great on my 450 Rigby's. Also I'm not sure 'super tight' on the rings is always the best solution, I'm more concerned about the tightness being even, but that's just me.

You might also take a look at Warne Maxima rings. They are heavy steel, vertically mounted rings (side-to-side rather than top to bottom). Warne does not recommend lapping the rings. I have used them on 4 or 5 of my rifles and have been very happy with them.

I have had good luck lapping the rings and then putting a small piece of electrical tape inside each ring half. The scope stays in place even on my .416 Rem. and .458 Lott.

I use rubber cement if needed or as insurance on a big bore heavy recoiling rifle. Rubber cement is available from any saddle shop and it comes off easy if you need to take scope off a gun for whatever reason..

Weaver rings are excellent if installed properly as with any rings..I hesitate to remove any metal from inside a ring other than perhaps the edges if I can feel them..Ive never had a scope move except when a rifle is in a pickup for months on end or in a saddle scabbard for too many hours, and this has only a couple of times in my life time. I bore check a rifle every day when hunting with my bore sighter..

Ive had excellent success with Weaver bases and rings, Talleys are a favorite, I love the old Lynn Brownells QD, old Redfields, Buehlers and Leupolds, and most of todays rings and bases are excellent when properly installed. Properly installed is the key word IMO..Its surprising how many are inproperly installed.

Some high dollar foreign scopes have a graphite like coating and no ring will hold them...

I often help out a friend who deals in lots of used rifles, most of them coming in with scopes mounted. He nearly always dismounts the scopes to sell them separately. About half or more of those I've dismounted have exhibited some obvious problem with the scope's installation. The VERY worst is those from Einsteins who insist on needlessly cementing the screws in, which only makes an improper mounting job harder to remedy.

sealer- Try Warne rings on a steel base. You'll never have an issue again.

Stonecreek-

I have seen much of the same. It amazes me how something so simple can become such a screwed-up mess. I've seen rifles with incorrect bases, screws that were so long they bottomed out and could not possibly hold the base securely along with a base that had been glued on as the screws had apparently been lost. I've also seen cheap $7 dollar Wal-Mart airgun rings with stripped-out threads used on a $2500 rifle with a $1200 scope on it -- and it was allegedly mounted that way by a gunsmith.

For years now, I have used nothing but Warne rings and will use nothing else, either. While I don't shoot heavy recoilers, I have never had a scope move or zero change. Best of all, Warne rings never, ever leave a mark on a scope -- not even a ghost impression, as some call them.

But folks can screw those up as well. A few years ago, I recommended them to an acquaintance. A few months later, he came by and showed me the gashes in the tube. I asked how he mounted the scope, and he said he put the top screws in first, tightened them as much as he could (farmer tight, I assume) and then installed/tightened the bottom screws. I asked what the instructions told him to do...and he said he didn't bother to read them.

I recently sold a Conquest scope that had been in and out of Warne rings at least a dozen times, and the tube still could have passed for brand new.

quote:

For years now, I have used nothing but Warne rings and will use nothing else, either.

I prefer the convenience of horizontally split rings to vertically, but either works fine if installed properly. (Then of course there are Conetrols, which can be mounted in approximately the same amount of time it takes a one-eyed, color-blind man to put together a 1500 piece jigsaw puzzle.)

In fact, other than a few cheap Asian-made discount store aluminum rings, most scope rings and mounts on the market work just fine when properly installed. You'd think that it would be harder work to mess them up than to simply do it right, but lots of people apparently aren't afraid of hard work.

Never had any scope movement when using 3M Transpore Surgical Tape inside rings.

The tape idea sounds interesting.
Thanks, Dennis

Tube scratch is also eliminated, as well.

I have a question...I have had Warne rings, older ones perhaps, that under heavy recoil the levers jumb and will turn and stop bolt lift. these are the ones that you can tighten then pull the lever out and set it in any position desired..I had this happen more than a few times on Safari, finally set the levers in a up position and taped them in position for the remainder of the hunt..sold all my Warnes when I got home and went to Talleys..That was about 1990 in So. Africa. I believe a stronger spring would be the solution??? and it may have been corrected by now...The rifle was my custom .338 by Jack Haugh..The levers would jump a notch with almost every shot or two on average..Same with my .375 H&H and 404 Jefferys when tested after my return to the states..I like the Warnes of the day as they had very small bases and one could see the barrel iron sights over them, but decided not to deal with the problem.

Another problem with levers is on a Mauser with the levers set on the left side so as to leave the right side and loading box clean, the levers will hit the bolt release (rear ring), so I cut the rear ring lever short reshape it and checker it..This is with LOW rings, medium or highs might solve the problem, but wouldn't meet my needs..as I like a scope as low as possible. Leupolds QD would not have this problem, but I have never used them. BTW, recutting and reshaping the Talley rings like the old Brownells is a nice touch

I have purchased used rings that had been scrubbed with whatever to clean up the inside, that's the latest gimmick out there and believe me a lot of rings have been ruined by the process, best to use wet or dry with your finger and only on "edges" that NEED it, edges you can feel..Most quality rings do not..

Torx screws are best but use with caution, I use a small screw driver and tighten as much as I can...Use a lager scew driver and you can dent a steel tube with Torxs if your strong enough. I don't use anything but a screw and hole cleaned with acetone or whatever..I do the same with bases except I glass them so they will never move..If I want them out I use a kitchen propane cooking torch with the tiny flame, heat the screw until the glass bubbles a tad and unscrew it..then retap the hole to clean whats left of glass and use new screws to install the new scope or whatever..

For those who think otherwise, and if you hunt the wilds of the world such as fly in Alaska or Africa, where guns must take some abuse, and your scope goes South, you will learn a good lesson, glass those puppies..Take every precaution available, Murphy is lurking over your shoulder. You and only you are responsible for your equipment..My custom guns that I build for folks or to sell are inletted not glassed, I leave that up to them..

My using rifles are full length glass bedded. All else is BS, even by the best of smiths, I appreciate their skills, but some of there claims leave me cold, I hunt more than they do. I use wood and rust blue for my guns. Over many years I have seen the best of custom guns fail because of arrogant claims.

I know the modern plastic stock and stainless steel guns that are glassed are the most reliable, but I just cant bring myself to keep them, they are ill fitting, ill looking, and poorly made, but they are tough, water proof and hold a zero, dammit!!

That would be good stuff to include in a book, Ray. Get to it!

I have had scope slippage problems on my last two .300WM's and also a 7mm WSM. Have tried rubber cement, electrical insulation tape and also plumber's teflon thread sealing tape without success. Warne rings on two of the rifles. Blaser rings on the other.
Was put onto this remedy by a respected Aussie gunsmith. It has been successful on both my .300WM rifles and a Tikka in .300WM that I did for another hunter on safari in Namibia. The 7mm WSM was sold beforehand.
Source some pine rosin from a musical instrument store (violinists use it) or from Brownells or Midway who sell it for securing scopes in the rings and barrels in barrel vices. I believe it comes in different forms but the product I have used is in a block. Scrape some off and dissolve the rosin in methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) and make a paste about the same consistency as honey or a little thicker. Paint the paste onto the scope tube and inside of the rings with a cotton earbud and then let dry for awhile until it is just a little tacky. Fit the scope into the rings, get the reticle upright and just nip up the ring screws a little so that the scope is held in position but the paste is not all squeezed out. Let the paste dry overnight and then tighten screws fully. Remove any excess rosin paste from the scope tube with more methylated spirits.
Scope is now secure.

PA Frank said:

quote:

Replace your rings with a set of the Burris Signature rings with the polymer inserts.. Your scope will make 100% contact and NEVER move.

+1. I put them on my Vanguard in 30-06 and they have never allowed the scope to slip.

Im thinking some of you guys need a bigger screwdriver..I like rubber cement as its easy to remove and needs no solution to get it off, just rub it out..most slipping scopes are the result of not enough tension on the screws..

Rubber-solution glue sounds like the solution to me, too. It will give some grip but comes off when you want it too. We used to use it for holding paper patterns on stocks when chequering.

quote:

Originally posted by sealer:
Any tips on the scope slipping inside the rings. All screws are super tight.
Gun is a Howa 1500 in 338 Win Mag w/ 2 piece bases, weaver style rings with a Leupold scope. Scope has shifted backwards enough to lock the power ring against the scope ring.
TIA, Dennis

I think you mean the scope has actually shifted forward in the rings i.e. rifle and rings recoil rearwards and scope stays put as rings slip rearward creating the effect of the scope moving forward in the rings. The power ring is usually behind the rear ring and ends up hard up against the rear ring as the scope slips?

No matter, I have always gone with original style Weaver rings, the ones having a top steel band, clipped one side and screwed down the other. Even just lightly taking up the slack on the two screws sees the scope gripped so tight that it cannot be turned in the rings. Only issue is that the scope is rolled slightly as the rings are tightened so have to start off with the scope rolled slightly back so the cross hair is horizontal once the rings are snugged right up tight. You get used to estimating the amount of back roll to apply.

Once these rings are snug a scope will never ever move in them and no need for glues or inserts. Some don't like the look of these original Weavers but I prefer to have scopes that never move rather than fashionable rings. Various posts on AR have shown the fashions that broke, Warne rings among them.

The Weaver rings are easily detachable and replaceable too!!!!!!!!!

Ive never had scope slipping problems in my 82 years, not once, much of the early years were with Weaver rings as that's about all we had back in the day..Most slippage back then was scope turning to the screw side, after being in a truck gun rack or in a saddle scabbard..Nail polish pretty well took care of that problem, if not some used iodine and rusted them shut!!, I wouldn't recommend that..

I clean the rings with tet or alcohol, whatever, same with screws. locktite the bases to the action. sometimes the ring screws gets a tad, I see nothing wrong with that on a big bore, I might even use glass on the screws..If I want to remove the scope, I simply heat a screw driver red hot, hold it to the screw a second and unscrew it, not a problem is you do it right..You can also use a tiny butane cooking torch to heat the screws and turn them out without any damage to the blue..

My rifes see a lot of horseback trips and nothing is harder on a scope than a saddle scabbard or a gun hanger in the back of a pickup. A good idea is a bore sighter being handy and checked often in many cases. but properly installed the scope wont move, but maintenance and checking it is always recommended.

The worst offenders of slipping scopes is European scopes with that damn finish they have, its like Teflon, slicker n snot..

I also use torx screws on all scope installations..but be carefull as torx can actually leave and indention in scope body if you have gorilla strength on a torx..

I use all 3 colors of Loctite and these days use only Warnes like Bobby...although agree most today are fine.

Bases - put red Loctite on my finger and put a thin coat on the base and on receiver. Then blue Loctite on base screws and torque the base screws to ~30 in-lbs.

Rings - put red Loctite on my finger-tip and lightly coat the inside of the rings. Use purple Loctite on ring screws. Torque the bottom ring-screws to 20-25 in-lb first then the top screws to 15 in-lbs. Let sit for 24 hrs before shooting.

Never had a scope move on my hard-recoiling rifles.

Anyone else use red Loctite inside rings?

quote:

Originally posted by ledvm:
I use all 3 colors of Loctite and these days use only Warnes like Bobby...although agree most today are fine.

Bases - put red Loctite on my finger and put a thin coat on the base and on receiver. Then blue Loctite on base screws and torque the base screws to ~30 in-lbs.

Rings - put red Loctite on my finger-tip and lightly coat the inside of the rings. Use purple Loctite on ring screws. Torque the bottom ring-screws to 20-25 in-lb first then the top screws to 15 in-lbs. Let sit for 24 hrs before shooting.

Never had a scope move on my hard-recoiling rifles.

Anyone else use red Loctite inside rings?

I always epoxy glue bases and their screws to receivers, the epoxy having the ability to 'take up' any slight contour differences if there are any and help stabilise the base or bases as well as ensuring a water-tight seal to prevent rusting under the bases. With a good contour match Loctite on the bases and screws will do the same job as epoxy and like epoxy can be broken free and cleaned up with a little heat if need be.

As to using glue or Loctite in the rings themselves, while it would certainly ensure no movement of the scope it would not make for ease of removing a scope and I would be cautious about applying any heat to the rings to break the Loctite as this extra heat is likely to pressurise the gas in the scope and stress the seals would it not? Then how do you remove Loctite from the scope, I know the product can be flaked from surfaces but will result in scratches on the scope when using a small sharp tool to flake the Loctite. Again application of heat to soften the Loctite is not for me on a scope.

I'd just prefer to use rings that don't need anything extra to grip the scope, albeit Weaver rings don't turn some on as far as looks and class but that's never been a concern for me. My Oberndorf Type A 404 has Weavers and I shoot it off an attached bipod at the range, now that's classy

I have never had issues with Loctite actually making rings hard to depart, even Red...but it does ensure 100% contact. I have also been able to remove it from the scope-tube when disassembled with bore solvent and a flannel cloth.

I use alcohol to remove oils on screws, bases, and scope. Use a torque wrench and blue loctite on screws. On the inside of the rings I spray tack Pitchers spray. I learned that from an old benchrest guy. It stays sticky kind of and rubbery. It cleans up with alcohol and to get it off the scope a quick alcohol swipe does it. It's held on quite a few ring scope combos on all manner of rifles.

I have used the thinnest brass shim stock. Use some scissors to cut it the size to match the inside of your rings. You may only have to do a 1/2 moon (top or bottom.
Brass is very sticky relative to steel.It will provide a better "tacky" interface. It will be thinner than aluminum foil.

EZ

you can also try violin bow rosin scraped to powder and applied to the insides of the rings.

Lap the rings and then a light dusting of Rosin. Torque the ring screws to spec with Blue Loctite.

quote:

Originally posted by eezridr:
I have used the thinnest brass shim stock. Use some scissors to cut it the size to match the inside of your rings. You may only have to do a 1/2 moon (top or bottom.
Brass is very sticky relative to steel.It will provide a better "tacky" interface. It will be thinner than aluminum foil.

EZ

That's interesting. Brass is certainly a greasy metal - scope makers use it for turret screws and erector tubes, too avoid need of lubricants that might get on lenses.

I first used as a suggestion as a medium to a slippage on my Harley's "mini apes". The handle bars and the head clamp were chromed.
I had instances where if I had to emergency brake the handles bars due to a little extra pressure would slip forward in the head clamp. NOT A GOOD FEELING!!
It seems it was not an uncommon occurrence. The bike shop told me of the application. The issue never came up again. Worked great.
I have used it on a application or two on a set of rings and it works.
Just my experience.