I noticed while zeroing my new Rem. 308SPSS that my Burris Signature is short on elevation and windage,(@50yds no less) never had this problem when the scope was mounted on other rifles. Im using TRS TPS rings and Burris Picatinny 2 pc rail, Im wondering if I swapped the front to back and back to front and then turned both rings that would end my problem, any ideas? Ill be downstairs working on it, thanks.

Ha!

You've discovered YET another problem with the POS Burris scopes that I forgot to tell you about!

I think mine have a TOTAL of 24 MOA vertical adjustment. On my 22-250 I have a 20 MOA picatinny rail to help and on my .223 I use the signature rings with the plastic inserts to give more travel. The reason I have the POS on these rifles is that I'm not going to be shooting over about 800 yards

A 30mm Leupold has over 80 MOA travel! With a 20 MOA rail I've dialed and shot 1700 yard targets (60 MOA)

rc, I have another scope just like this one on my 700VS in 223, but I do have a different ring/base setup using Burris ext front dovetail and the windage screws in the back rings(No Signature rings here). I have no problem reaching out 300 yds and beyond with that setup, Im not blaming the scope, even a POS BSA scope should have enough elev. and windage at 50 yds. Yes, 50 yds not 500 yds. Oh and this scope was mounted at one time on a VSSF 22-250 and I didnt have any issues then, now with this different ring/base setup we have issues, so read my lips, its not the scope.

I swapped(end for end) and turned the rings just a bit ago, tell me if you think that will help.

It's worth a shot! If it doesn't, get a 20 MOA rail or go to the smith. My comment was about Burris adjustment range even when mounted properly with the elevation all the way down.

If 500 yards is the farthest you'll shoot, you "might"'get a Burris to "work"

quote:

Originally posted by Jay Gorski:
I noticed while zeroing my new Rem. 308SPSS that my Burris Signature is short on elevation and windage,(@50yds no less) never had this problem when the scope was mounted on other rifles. Im using TRS TPS rings and Burris Picatinny 2 pc rail, Im wondering if I swapped the front to back and back to front and then turned both rings that would end my problem, any ideas? Ill be downstairs working on it, thanks.

I am not familiar with the rings you are using but you might try the Burris Signature Offset rings. They have them up to .020" offset to move your scope around and give you just about any correction you need. I think they will work on your Picatinny bases. I have them on a rifle and they fixed the problem.

I shouldnt have to use Signature rings at 50yds or 500 yds for that matter., like I said, this scope was mounted on a VSSF and it preformed awesomely. Was also mounted on a Colt AR15, no issues whatsoever, it might be good now since I swapped ends and turned them, just have to try to get a good boresight, going to try shining a flashlight thru the barrel onto a wall and look thru the scope, hope that works, if it does, off to the range, again.

"Shouldn't have to" and "have to " are two different things.
All any of us "should have to" do is buy a rifle and mount any scope on it and it "should" shoot in the same hole all day long every day. But that isn't the way it works....is it?

I have a Rem. 700 that the front portion of the receiver is lower than it should be so I had to put a shim under the front base to get the bases in the same plane.
I have a Win. M-70 with the rear portion of the action milled off more to one side which made the rear base lean to the left and wouldn't give me enough windage adjustment for my scope. None of my other M-70s have any problem as far as that.
I have a Savage M-16 that I can't find a non-custom extended rear base for because I need to move a Leupold scope forward on it to get a full field of view. The scope has too much eve relief if you can believe that. By the way this scope is one of three new ones with that same problem.

I was just making a suggestion about something that would fix the problem.

Im not arguing with you, just saying this shouldnt be that hard, just boresighted it at 15yds, its pretty much right to the max for windage, elev seems maxed out, too, I can see where i might need a higher rear base, but what accounts for the windage issue, the scope sits identical to the same scope on my 700VS, measured both rifles scope clearance front & rear as best I could and found the VS sits .019" lower in the front, so that could explain the elev issue, but why the windage issue? With todays CNC machining I cant believe the base screws are off that much, I mean the scope sits just as straight as the VS.

quote:

Originally posted by Jay Gorski:
Im not arguing with you, just saying this shouldnt be that hard, just boresighted it at 15yds, its pretty much right to the max for windage, elev seems maxed out, too, I can see where i might need a higher rear base, but what accounts for the windage issue, the scope sits identical to the same scope on my 700VS, measured both rifles scope clearance front & rear as best I could and found the VS sits .019" lower in the front, so that could explain the elev issue, but why the windage issue? With todays CNC machining I cant believe the base screws are off that much, I mean the scope sits just as straight as the VS.

The M-70 I spoke of in the previous post, was milled off in the rear. The screw holes were OK but the base canted over when the screws were tightened. It also made my evevation off from where it should have been. But I still had some adjustment. A accurizing outfit even missed it. I took it to another smith in the area and he found it like it was nothing. Said he had seen it before on another rifle. He put a shim under one side of the base and with the Burris inserts I was able to get pretty close to center of adjustment, give or take a few clicks.

I'm just saying it sounds like the same thing on yours but you say it sits the same on your other rifles so I don't know. Good luck.

quote:

Originally posted by Jay Gorski:
http://youtu.be/cEmnTIt52qE

Those are the same rings and picatinny that I have on 3 rifles.

It's very possible to run out of windage because the holes are drilled and tapped whopper jawed.

Elevation can be corrected with milling on the picatinny rail.

quote:

Originally posted by rcamuglia:

quote:

Originally posted by Jay Gorski:
http://youtu.be/cEmnTIt52qE

Those are the same rings and picatinny that I have on 3 rifles.

It's very possible to run out of windage because the holes are drilled and tapped whopper jawed.

Elevation can be corrected with milling on the picatinny rail.

Can you explain whopper jawed?

OK, milling on the front base will help elev, but it wont do anything for windage, thats the tricky one, rc. Ideas?

quote:

Originally posted by Jay Gorski:

quote:

Originally posted by rcamuglia:

quote:

Originally posted by Jay Gorski:
http://youtu.be/cEmnTIt52qE

Those are the same rings and picatinny that I have on 3 rifles.

It's very possible to run out of windage because the holes are drilled and tapped whopper jawed.

Elevation can be corrected with milling on the picatinny rail.

Can you explain whopper jawed?


OK, milling on the front base will help elev, but it wont do anything for windage, thats the tricky one, rc. Ideas?

Whopper jawed = out-of-alignment

It sure sounds like what I had for a problem.
But..............

So you guys are saying the front and rear scope base screw holes are out of alignment with each other? I just wanna get things correct. Is there any way to check this w/o taking it all apart? I dont think they are, I checked the rifle over pretty good when I bought it, it all looked straight. Oh, forgot to mention Im using 8/40 screws in this base.

I was just defining what I think he meant by "whopper jawed".
I am simply saying that on my rifle the screws were drilled in the correct location and seemed to be perpindicular to the longitudinal axis but the rear of the action was machined un-true so that the rear base was leaning over and NOT in the same plane as the front base. This gave the impression that the holes were drilled off. As I said the second smith I took it to found it right off since he had seen something similar on another rifle.

Another advantage of the Burris Sig. rings with inserts is if something is off a just a tad, your scope won't be in any stress when the ring caps are tightened.

You really should invest in a Wheeler scope ring alignment kit. It has alignment pins that are placed in each ring and face each other. They are pointed to show if the bases/rings are out-of-plane and alignment with each other.
Just a suggestion.

quote:

Originally posted by Rae59:
I was just defining what I think he meant by "whopper jawed".
I am simply saying that on my rifle the screws were drilled in the correct location and seemed to be perpindicular to the longitudinal axis but the rear of the action was machined un-true so that the rear base was leaning over and NOT in the same plane as the front base. This gave the impression that the holes were drilled off. As I said the second smith I took it to found it right off since he had seen something similar on another rifle.

Another advantage of the Burris Sig. rings with inserts is if something is off a just a tad, your scope won't be in any stress when the ring caps are tightened.

You really should invest in a Wheeler scope ring alignment kit. It has alignment pins that are placed in each ring and face each other. They are pointed to show if the bases/rings are out-of-plane and alignment with each other.
Just a suggestion.

Got ya. I do have pics if I could only post them here that shows how straight everything is, if you know the TPS rings you know they're very well made, when I mounted the scope in them it was like they were made for each other, perfect fit. When I eyeball the front and rear bases they seem to line up as good as anything. but Ill try to take a straight edge to them to be sure., I have the scope/rings off right now just to look everything over, checking this & that. One thing I remember is when I was boresighting it back in Dec on the neighbors house across the street I thought everything was good thats why i started at 100yds for zeroing, to my dismay I didnt hit any paper, Ill put it back together and try that again. More to come.

sounds like offcenter mounting holes in the action. I know several guys who use the Burris in 600yd matches and have no windage issues.

Have your mount holes aligned and tapped out to 8x40 and use a new base for those size screws.

Burris gets it's brightness and light transmission from larger internal lenses, which eats up internal adjustment room.

other than that, I will take a Burris signature over a VX3 any day,..as a matter of fact, I replaced them all with signatures.

I only have one Leupy 8.5-25LR left, and when money permits, it too will make way for another NXS as did the 3 MK IV's they replaced.

Justin, I did have the 8/40s put in back in Dec @Gander, the bases/mount holes look pretty darn straight to me, I have pics but cant post them here, if only I knew how. I checked the rifle out pretty good before I bought it, no crooked barrel like my 700VS. Have the same 6-24 Sig on that rifle and its zerod at 300yds and still has a bit to go before its maxed out.

Jay, sometimes stuff happens I have mounted 2 different scopes on a pards browning a-bolt that bottom out and the POI is still several feet high at 100yds. Still trying to figure that one out.

Sure you dont have a 40MOA rear base? hahaha

that would be great Jay, since then I would know it was a mistake in ordering the wrong part and not something wrong with his rifle.

can't get that lucky