The screws that mount Weaver style bases into drilled holes in the recever need what to ensure they stay put?

I'm installing these in a 1910 Mexican mauser action. The holes were drilled and tapped by a local gunsmith to ensure the correct placement.

Is blue lock tight a good idea?
Thanks

I install the screws without anything but a little torque to hold them. I had to remove the screws one time and put some purple (I think) Lock tight on them. A little removable lock tight would probably be a good idea every time a mount is installed but I guess I am a slow learner.

Blue Lock tight will work fine.

Locking compound is unnecessary with properly torqued screws.

I've used blue loctite for years and never had a screw loosen. Clean and degrease the screws and screw holes then put a drop on each screw.

With the many and varied scope bases I have mounted on rifles over the years (mine and others) I without fail use a two tube epoxy cement on the underside of the bases and on the screws.
Degrease surfaces with white spirit and use enough epoxy on the bases to squeeze out and be cleaned off and remember to wipe any epoxy off the underside of screw holes if these are not blind holes. The epoxy will ensure no water can seep under the bases and cause rust and will also take up any irregularities between the base and receiver contours.

You will never have to be concerned about loose bases or screws again and a little careful application of heat will allow removal if required in the future.

I want a good job first time and not have any doubts about the scope mounting if things start going awry on the target at any time in the future, may it be ammo, scope, barrel or bedding, it definitely won't be bases and screws!

I'm considering using epoxy resin alone on a home-made base for my Greek MS.
With one surface covering all the top half of the barrel reinforce and a strap extending back behind the clip holder, I reckon it will hold well enough.

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
I'm considering using epoxy resin alone on a home-made base for my Greek MS.
With one surface covering all the top half of the barrel reinforce and a strap extending back behind the clip holder, I reckon it will hold well enough.

Your idea may well work. I use Araldite two tube epoxy and with enough heat applied to the screw heads with a pencil flame to undo them it still requires quite a sharp smack to a base to break it free from the receiver when removing epoxied bases. I have done a few when changing over from the old Parker Hale bases to the Weaver style.

There is likely a stronger bonding epoxy around now than the common Araldite.

Yes, eagle27, the newer versions may be better in various ways. The 5-minute and the clear version are supposed to stand 80 degrees C. The old one was only good to 50C, which is probably only 10 minutes in the desert sun. But if I want to take the mount off, a few seconds over a gas burner should do it.