I've always taken great care in making certain that the scope reticle was vertical in relation to the rifle.... But, how much difference would a couple of degrees going to make in the point of impact? Is there a formula or equation that explains? A web site perhaps?

Here's some reading.

What method do you use to keep your rifle uncanted in the field or at the bench?

How about 55yrs of "feel".... lol.. I was just interested in the effects of having the scopes recitule not being "true".....

Good article! Thanks for the link.

quote:

Originally posted by AI22-250:
How about 55yrs of "feel".... lol.. I was just interested in the effects of having the scopes recitule not being "true".....

It depends on how centered the reticule is after zeroing your rifle and how far (distance) you are shooting.

quote:

Originally posted by AI22-250:
I was just interested in the effects of having the scopes recitule not being "true".....

Here is a quote from the paperwork that came in the box with an A.C.D. (Anti-Cant-Device)

quote:

The effect can be drastic. For example, at 1,000 yards, a .30 caliber bullet, fired from a rifle canted only 6 degrees (visualized as only one minute on the face of a clock) will miss the point of aim by 55 inches -- almost 5 feet. Even at close ranges, a 6 degree cant at 100 yards can cause a 1/2 inch miss.

They also give a chart that gives "Additional Bullet Drop". A bullet does not only move to the side with cant it also has additional drop. I can't reproduce the entire chart but will give a few examples:

6* cant (one minute) - normal 32" drop (270 @ 450 yds) - additional 3.351"

9* cant (1 1/2 minute) - normal 32" drop (270 @ 450 yds) - additional 5.006"

At the bottom of the chart it gives an example:
"A 55 grain .223 round at a 3200 fps muzzle velocity and zeroed for 100 yards will drop roughly 64" at 475 yards. A 5 degree cant will cause the bullet to drop an additional 5.578", or over 1 minute of angle"

If you have a particular load in mind I will give you the approximate additional drop.

Personally, I have gone to the Scope Level which allows you a sight picture above the scope without removing your cheek weld



but folds down when not in use


I also have one of the Micro Levels


which is absolutely fantastic but reduces eye relief


so I had to move it off my 280AI onto a light kicking 6.5 rem mag.

The trick is that it really does not matter if the rifle is uncanted only that the reticle is level when the shot is touched off.

The article was very good. I was interested in the part about the scope not being "un-canted". I was amazed at the amount of error produced....
About how much is the "Micro-Levels"?

Seemed like it was about $125.00 with shipping.

What scope are you wanting to put it on. The ocular on the Kahles and the Conquest I put it on were actually a little large but I made it work.

Like I say, don't put it on anything larger than a 270 or it will be bumping your forehead.

Woods,

Good postings, and thanx for the link on cant.

Don

Woods, I've got three "varmint weapons" that could benefit from the Micro-Level...... An AR-15 in .223rem, a Remington ETRONX that I had chambered in 22-250AI and a Salvage 12FLV in .308win, it's (the 308win) has a Choate stock, Accu-trigger set a 1 1/4#, tactical bolt, Farrel rings and base's, a 6.5-20x50 LR/T w/varmint reticle and Harris bi-pod. It weighs about 13#'s so I think I could put the level on it without any problems.... Right now I'm leaning towards the RRA .223, I'm shooting Berger VLD's in 75gr., they stay super-sonic to over a 1000yrds... and I could use any help I can get, It's got a Leupy 3.5-10 on it, but I'm waiting on a new scope for it, the Leupy is my "Deer" rifle scope, I took it off to break-in the RRA's "Predator Pursuit" rifle....

Then I can certainly recommend the Micro-Level. It has worked perfectly for me for a couple of years. It will spoil you against the bubbles cause it is extremely easy to aim and get the green light without even thinking about it


The ocular bell on the Kahles I originally had it on was too big but the rubber skirt on the Micro Level stretched enough to make it work


I would also recommend the EXD device (link here to Brownells) on their website for taking the cant out of the rifle and aligning the bore to the centerline of the scope when mounting the scope



After getting into all this I learned that I was holding my rifles canted and have been working to better my shooting since. Can't say it has made the difference but some of my rifles are really starting to come together at the longer ranges


However the Scope Level that fold up and down will work. I would try one of those and only one of the Micro Levels to make sure they will float your boat. One advantage of these leveling devices is that if you switch scopes then it is a simple matter to mount the scope level in the new rings.

http://www.swfa.com/p-9282-b-s...bble-bore-level.aspx

B-Square "Weaver" Bubble Bore Level
* Ensures bore and reticle alignment at a glance
* White-scribed line on housing for quick reference
T1006 $19.95


I was born with Euclidean geometry hardwired.
The problem is trajectory [effect of gravity].
Without trajectory, the direction of gravity does not matter.

Trajectory becomes more of a problem at longer ranges.
When shooting at 50 yards with a .223, you can turn the rifle sidways and the group will move very little.

But at 250 yards with a .223, glancing at the bubble can be the difference between hitting and not hitting the ground squirrel.

Think about the effects of canting a 5" tall tang sight on a 1200 FPS 45-70 load at 100 yards.You could get the windage off 1/4" at the rear sight.

I checked several places and read the reviews("Weaver" Bubble-level). Only 5 of 17 posts were satisfied with the product..... Many complained of a poorly made product, that showed up scratched, broken, bubble unatached, poor fit with out the necessary adjustment to mount it..... Apparently not a well made product. Just a thought....

I wouldn't think you would want something that sticks out sideways, it would catch on brush and you couldn't lay your gun flat on it's side. Also that bubble looks like it is nonadjustable so it would only be as level as your base.

Here's a link to ScopLevel at Midway

I think the US Optics level sticks out sideways, but folds on a hinge. It is popular for snipers. It costs $80.

The cheapee side mount I posted above is not a folder, but at $20 it works just fine. I have one on a varmint gun, that never gets caught up in the Dog-Gone-Good shooting bag.

Next year I will use one on antelope, deer, and if I get a shot, elk.

woods -- I like the look of the "ScopLevel". It aparently is made of a synthetic material, is it strong enough for the rough use? Price is right and it seems to be easy enough to set up....