I just bought and mounted a zeiss 3x9 on my 8mm magnum 700 Classic. Do you bore sight it the same as a Leupold? The Owners Manual was very vague to say the least on bore sighting. All advice/ suggestions would be deeply appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jerry Hoover

Jerry, it shouldn't matter what the scope brand is, cept in the past some stupid scopes had adjustments that worked in the opersite sense to the norm.
Either way it's all a matter of just centering something in the bore at least 25-30 yards away, and winding the scope adjustments until you get the crosshairs on the same object.

Then I usually fire the first shot at about 25yards to be sure of getting on paper.

Jerry,

First I ensure the recticle is centered (most are centered as they come from the factory).

I bore sight using a 3"x5" card with two 1/2" black dots on it. Black shooting pasties work great for this. The distance between the two dots is the measurement of the center of the bore to the center of recticle. I measure the bottom of the barrel to the top of the scope's objective bell with a pair of calipers, subtract the distance between the barrel & scope and divide the scope & barrel measurements by 2. This is the distance I use to the center of each black dot on the 3"x5" card.

I then put the rifle in a Work Mate and do the scope/barrel veiwing from about two meters away from the 3"x5" card. I make the windage adjustments with the mounts and the elevation adjustments with the scope.

Like JAL says, taking the initial shot at 25 meters is the best solution but at our range I can't do that but with the above I'm usually pretty close to dead-on at 100 meters anyway.

Unfotunately, I have to work my second job today(have to pay for Namibia someway). I will follow my usual sighting in procedure and incorporate the suggestions given. My thanks to JAL and Gerry. Anyone else have any good ideas? Jerry Hoover

Jerry,
I just put the mounted rifle and scope in a vise and sight on a distant object (100YDS) thru the center of the bore then move the scope onto the same object with the Elev and wind knobs.Gets me on paper at 50 yds. You can use some thread and a rubber band to make some crosshairs at the end of the bore if your real picky. Rob

quote:

by Gerry,
First I ensure the recticle is centered (most are centered as they come from the factory).

Why would it matter? The reticle with have to match the bore when bore sighting,and the reticle will be where it will be when sighted in.I have NEVER checked to see if a recticle was centered (in 40+ years) or not before I started to sight in and do not see why it would matter.

quote:

Originally posted by jwp475:

quote:

by Gerry,
First I ensure the recticle is centered (most are centered as they come from the factory).

Why would it matter? The reticle with have to match the bore when bore sighting,and the reticle will be where it will be when sighted in.I have NEVER checked to see if a recticle was centered (in 40+ years) or not before I started to sight in and do not see why it would matter.

Some base are adjustable for windage by adjusting the screws in the rear to move the rear ring left or right. I think the Ruger rings are also adjustable somewhat. Most of the time it will not matter but it is best to have the crosshairs optically centered left to right. Also centering the vertical crosshairs will tell you if you need to shim so that you will have some adjustment left. More of a ring problem than a scope problem.

I finally broke down and bought one of these. Don't know how I ever lived without it.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=895312

After using on several rifles you get a feel for where to boresight and you can check rifles in the field just to make sure thay haven't been bumped in transit.