Thought I'd share a neat little project that seems to be wrapped up. $150 for a metal version of the same thing was just too expensive for me.

Version 1 has been tested up to 338 Lapua Improved recoil and passed fine. Pictured is Version 2 which is a clamshell design with less pieces to lose. It is on my GAP/CZ/Manners 22. Excuse the bit of finish rubbed off, we were testing different bolt head sizes. A little bit shorter bolt and I'm totally satisfied. They thread into two captured nuts, and the whole assembly is bolted onto the scope via one bolt into helicoils sank into the plastic.

Quite pleased with how it functions, and the finish matches a matte black scope perfectly.

I like the basic design. Not sure that the window is wide enough. I like to be able to see more of the bubble. Seeing the whole bubble with about 3/16 on either side of it works well for me to quickly center up. I don't use the black center bar.

Just my 2 cents.

Neat project.

Jeremy

Can you see the level with one eye, while looking through the scope with your other?


If not, one is just guessing if the rifle is level when getting "back on the scope"..

Jeremy, thanks for the input. When the bubble is centered up there is some space on each side of it, I can try and get a better picture.

Nortman, the one pic from behind the scope is about what my left eye sees. So yes, even with an illumination knob I can see the level with my left eye.

Now I see the big picture

Until now I thought getting the scope level was just a matter pulling back your head far enough to see the vertical crosswire or post was pointing down the centre of the action, say through the striker slot, while centering parallax distortion.

Setting up a reticle-movement scope on a rifle that didn't shoot to its boresight seemed more of a challenge.

So I've had tons of interest in this project on various sites, and plan to start selling these as a small business venture.

Here is an updated design:



If you're interested shoot me a PM or e-mail at tykempster@hotmail.com

Perhaps nylon screws/bolts would be better than steel.

What are you asking for them?


.

Why would nylon screws be better?

If you're referencing the chewed up portion, that was from trying different size bolt heads, which is now resolved.

I should add that we put helicoils in the plastic so it's metal on metal for the bolts. And for the adjustable section bolts thread into captured nuts.

JTEX, $35 shipped for a bare level. We are making a nonadjustable one that will be $10-$15 as well.

Do you have a 36mm one?

We could make one for you for a small redesign fee...a few bucks extra.

Quite pleased with how they turned out